10-4....they are actually pretty easy to find, check craigslist and your local 4x4 clubs....there are people who make their living buying auctioned military vehicles and parting them out
it seems like there is something weird and a little undesirable about the dana 61....do some research on pirate about that one....(hint...use google to search pirate4x4)
ford dana 60's have weak knuckles iirc.....also the drop is on the wrong side
While the Ford stuff is great, for your application there are a few things against it. Drivers side drop, 8x170mm bolt pattern, so you would need the matching Sterling 10.5, outers are 30 spline and high steer is not very easy (right now, getting better).
Chevy or '90ish to 93 Dodge (earlier stuff is external hub) 60 is what you want.
good info guys. I found a pair on CL from a K30 for 1k, it is a dually. should I be getting them from a SRW truck? I am not so worried about the gear ratio as I will put new gears in it, but if it comes with a Detroit in the rear, than that is a bonus. are the older Detroits the same?
SRW will be the most desirable and as said above , a 60/14 combo is pretty commonly for sale or at least around here, I am running CUCV's in a xtra cab trk on 42's
SRW will be the most desirable and as said above , a 60/14 combo is pretty commonly for sale or at least around here, I am running CUCV's in a xtra cab trk on 42's
good info guys. I found a pair on CL from a K30 for 1k, it is a dually. should I be getting them from a SRW truck? I am not so worried about the gear ratio as I will put new gears in it, but if it comes with a Detroit in the rear, than that is a bonus. are the older Detroits the same?
okay so what exactly is the "CCUV" or what year/model am I looking for. I want to start looking hard for one of these. this sounds like the route I am going. and I am stoked on the link for the shave and the yoke upgrade. that looks totally doable. i think that if i find one with the 63" WMS that would be a good width without having to narrow it. As I sit now i am 3" wider than stock with my 60 axles and 1.5" spacers. so I think that is almost 63".
okay so what exactly is the "CCUV" or what year/model am I looking for. I want to start looking hard for one of these. this sounds like the route I am going. and I am stoked on the link for the shave and the yoke upgrade. that looks totally doable. i think that if i find one with the 63" WMS that would be a good width without having to narrow it. As I sit now i am 3" wider than stock with my 60 axles and 1.5" spacers. so I think that is almost 63".
You won't find a CUCV with a 63 inch width. What you can do is find one and run the C&C hubs. That will work fine. Ruffstuff even makes a disc brake bracket that allows the standard disc brake conversion using C&C hubs on a standard axle.
You won't find a CUCV with a 63 inch width. What you can do is find one and run the C&C hubs. That will work fine. Ruffstuff even makes a disc brake bracket that allows the standard disc brake conversion using C&C hubs on a standard axle.
so where di you get your 63" axle? i suppose it is prolly not a big deal or expense to get it narrowed anyway. i would just like to find one that already has a locker in it. if not no big deal as I would rather have an ARB in the rear since I live in the snow. I am not really a fan of the Detroit in the snow.
why not just run full width axles? i guess there might be some issues with the law if your going to ride on the street with this rig......but they are super stable in offcamber situations etc......the two guys i ride with the most both have full width cucv's under their rigs and are real happy with them
Chris--An important point to remember is that Full width (67 inches) and the narrow width (63 inches) differ only in the hubs. The housings are the same except for the placement of the backing plate flanges. The inner axles are also the same, the center is the same etc.
There are some wide ones you don't want out of commercial duty vans (I think it was the 3500 vans). They were significantly wider single wheel.
Interestingly, step vans with dually rear ends were often the 63 inch 14 bolt. Boots4 has one of those in his junk pile.
Hit up any pick and pull though. CHevy 3/4 ton trucks mid 70s to mid 80s will have what you want, and you can probably just buy some used dually type hubs. If you want to see what they look like and the differences, I have a pair at the house I can show you.
THe real expert on these things is Freds40. Send him a PM.
Chris--An important point to remember is that Full width (67 inches) and the narrow width (63 inches) differ only in the hubs. The housings are the same except for the placement of the backing plate flanges. The inner axles are also the same, the center is the same etc.
There are some wide ones you don't want out of commercial duty vans (I think it was the 3500 vans). They were significantly wider single wheel.
Interestingly, step vans with dually rear ends were often the 63 inch 14 bolt. Boots4 has one of those in his junk pile.
Hit up any pick and pull though. CHevy 3/4 ton trucks mid 70s to mid 80s will have what you want, and you can probably just buy some used dually type hubs. If you want to see what they look like and the differences, I have a pair at the house I can show you.
THe real expert on these things is Freds40. Send him a PM.
why not just run full width axles? i guess there might be some issues with the law if your going to ride on the street with this rig......but they are super stable in offcamber situations etc......the two guys i ride with the most both have full width cucv's under their rigs and are real happy with them
Well, full with is pretty darn wide on a 55, and yes I do want tit to be as close to legal as possible, but with a wider stance. that is why I am thinking 63" would be pretty good. I live 7 miles from the Rubicon turn off and close to a lot of other trails do not want to trailer my rig there.
Mine is sitting on 63" wide axles with a 4.5" BS wheel. I think full width 67" would be really wide. Might get you hassled by the law if you drive around.
so... these are pretty dang built and the only problem I have had was shearing the hub studs on the rear . prior to the 7/6" bolt fix. pretty dure that wont happen again. been running 37's.
[...]. thanks -Vette
Mine is sitting on 63" wide axles with a 4.5" BS wheel. I think full width 67" would be really wide. Might get you hassled by the law if you drive around.
I'm curious about that, because I see / hear about far more problems when the parts are not clean and dry going together, as when people are using silicone or some form of other gasket-maker instead of the factory paper gaskets.
It's just like people having problems with steering arms - and they are putting them together with anti-seize or with greasy parts. The friction between the surfaces is the primary interface acting against shear and not the studs themselves. As such, the parts must be clean/dry and preferably unpainted.
I'm curious about that, because I see / hear about far more problems when the parts are not clean and dry going together, as when people are using silicone or some form of other gasket-maker instead of the factory paper gaskets.
It's just like people having problems with steering arms - and they are putting them together with anti-seize or with greasy parts. The friction between the surfaces is the primary interface acting against shear and not the studs themselves. As such, the parts must be clean/dry and preferably unpainted.
yes, but i think orginally that is not as much of a factor with the stock studs because the torque is not very much on the studs and does not ad much clamping force which is where most of the friction comes from. i used only the paper gasket with no sealers because i learned that was the best way to keep the FF sealed. with my stud upgrade I have my torque at 60 ft. lbs though engineering sheets for that bolt spec say i can run 70. the stock stud torque is significantly less .
I think peole are also not careful to reduce torque per specifications when lubricating threads. but I would think that for the most part, perfectly clean surfaces and paper gaskets are desireable, except for the transfer case, which I use the toyota factory sealant. that stuff is like friggin' glue.
