AVM part time kit (1 Viewer)

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It's worth it if you want the ability to run 2WD incase you have a driveline failure up front. Less wear and tear on the CVs for daily driving. Doesnt increase fuel mileage from what I've heard reported. You loose full-time 4wd, and are either 2WD or proper 4x4 with locked center diff.
 
I'm looking for opinions on the AVM part time 4wd kit from Slee. Any Mudders running this? Is it worth the cash?

Slee - Drivetrain - Drive Shafts

I don't have any experience with this, but curious as to what would be the point of doing this? :confused:

From what I've heard, this doesn't really improve mpg at all so why would one spend $$$ on this...
 
It's worth it if you want the ability to run 2WD incase you have a driveline failure up front. Less wear and tear on the CVs for daily driving.

If something blows up in the front diff, wouldn't one still have to remove the front drive-shaft even if this kit was installed? Otherwise the diff would still be turning while driving.

Similarly on the CV wear, unless the front drive-shaft is removed, wouldn't the front cv's still be turning all day long (just not "transmitting" any power)?

Perhaps I'm misunderstanding the kit...
 
It's worth it if you want the ability to run 2WD incase you have a driveline failure up front. Less wear and tear on the CVs for daily driving. Doesnt increase fuel mileage from what I've heard reported. You loose full-time 4wd, and are either 2WD or proper 4x4 with locked center diff.

You'd need to pull the front drive shaft if you truly want to eliminate R&P and CV rotation. Yes they're technically not under load at the wheel hub but...

I ran around without a front drive shaft a few years ago apart of trying to diagnose a driveline vibe I had. Sans the power going to the front wheels it is noticeably smoother. MPG oddly didn't change or at least significantly enough to register.

KISS.
 
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Not worth it. I installed a part time kit in a quadratrac equipped CJ-7 and wish I hadn't wasted the time and money. Its system was very similar to the LC transfer case and had a diff lock option.
 
You'd need to pull the front drive shaft if you truly want to eliminate R&P and CV rotation. Yes they're technically not under load at the wheel hub but...

I ran around without a front drive shaft a few years ago apart of trying to diagnose a driveline vibe I had. Sans the power going to the front wheels it is noticeably smoother. MPG oddly didn't change or at least significantly enough to register.

KISS.

[STRIKE]The kit eliminates the viscous coupler. So you get no CV and R&P rotation without pulling the front drive shaft.[/STRIKE] Nevermind.
 
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No, front DS and CV's won't spin in 2WD (and hubs unlocked). I bet you can light up the rear tires pretty good in 2LO!

I went 2WD for a week last year. I must say it's nice not having front end lift! It rained one day so I figured I would have some fun. That 2UZ can absolutely shred the back tires when wet. I didn't try low range. But I would imagine it would look like sea foam going down the street.

I didn't notice any increase in MPG's. If you do the part time kit, you are adding point of failures to a reliable drivetrain. I'd rather keep the reliability IMO.
 
I did the opposite and ran around in FWD for a couple weeks. It sucked. Unintentional front wheel burn outs with "slow as a bus" launches.

I'd say the selectable hubs would be an added point of failure but for on-road driving, I'd guess reliability would go up since there are a lot fewer moving parts. I dare say there would be a lot more Gen1 Tundras with failed front differentials if they were full time 4wd. ;)
 
Yep, I ran around in FWD as well. It was horrible. I have driven many FWD cars. I have never experienced the one tire fire quite as bad as the 100. It's damn near impossible to drive.
 
I wouldn't want the cost or labor of installing the part time kit. I was just wondering it running AVM selectable hubs upfront instead of machined drive flanges would allow you to just flip a switch in the event of a front diff, axle or CV breakdown.
 
I wouldn't want the cost or labor of installing the part time kit. I was just wondering it running AVM selectable hubs upfront instead of machined drive flanges would allow you to just flip a switch in the event of a front diff, axle or CV breakdown.

You would still need to disconnect the front drive shaft.
 
I believe AVM offers a standard hub and an HD hub. Get the HD hub. Or better yet, see if the Aisin Hubs from a 105 work! Added bonus, the selectable hubs look a whole lot better than the bulbous dust cap that is there now.

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