Whatever Toyota Matt sent me I have for temp gauge. I bough the cluster pod from him as well too
Average 2F engine temperature
- Thread starter 4lowNgo
- Start date
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interesting ....
so you removed the factory YAZAKI OEM Coolant Temperature mechanical gauge in the POD , and replaced it with another mechanical one in its place , that Shows it full sweep range and needle just like a factory one does ?
- do you also still run the oem temp. sender in the cylinder head factory location too ?
- how does it still give actual readings after the ignition is taken OUT of the ON position ?
- this sounds KOOL !
Can you Please post some more TECH here , and also ANY relevant photos of your set up during the install and or now as is please ?
thanks !
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BELOW : is my experiment in doing the badly needed Light Shade Modification to the 4 Gauges POD in GHOST , because it only Sports 1 single #194 peanut bulb , while the Speedos in both 60's and 61's , 62's all have 2
- not sure why they were designed that way ?
- but next time it's night time driving conditions in your own 60 series anything , take a hard look for more then a moment , you will realize , the speedo is brighter on the RH side and the 4 gauges pod on the LH side of your instrument cluster is dimmer over all ...
- this intentional use of a light shade of some sort by YAZAKI and TOYOTA is all over the place , FJ40 Clusters with stock incandescent bulbs u have to squint at at night phenomenon like a BAT to see them at a average level at best .......
- SUPER HILUX is a 2005 and i saw some odd-ball crusader type loud-mouth on YOU TUBE claim he could make the inside of his Trashed out 2002 body style era 4Runner 3 Times Brighter inside at night when he added the Old Skool color keyed OEM Blue Rubber Bulb Cap slide on covers to his stock incandescent Peanut and Festoon type Room Lamp , Cargo and front rear view mirror map light bulbs by removing the deflector-shields as he called them from all of the 4 lamp sockets , this was before LED bulbs were on the market common place like they are today ....fyi
- well that fellow was spot on and dead nutz right in-fact , each socket had a easily removable dish-type deflector shield that once popped out with a common small pocket screw driver , made the bulb go from a intentionally narrow spot-light like single thin beam , say like a single slice of pizza degree range , to a way way more then a 180' pattern and range almost like a Flood Light effect , well that was the moment in time i diesected my first crusty old FJ40 YAZAKI cluster meter and the ah-haa moment occurred for me in more ways then ill sit here and chatty matty all night about to say the least ...
- that moment in my evolution took me here below and beyond to GHOST's HVAC Selector levers and A/C blue push button switch panel where a new bench-mark concept idea solution i pipe dreamed up to have a kustom matching color tone LED bulb made via a small special order run , same is the actual translucent panel itself when help up to a 8000K cool white light source ...
- my LED place i source all my things LED , called it a color-temperature-spectrum LED bulb
- that term i vaguely recall seeing used in books i studied on how to shoot Kodachrome Color Slide Photography more then a decade & 1/2 ago ish .....
- well that sh#t is real and so is the results of the TECH Video below ....
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Color Temperature LED HVAC Selector Levers Lighted Panel Display & Round Blue A/C Push Button Knob Latest MODERN SPECIAL COLOR Temperature Matched LUMENS LED Blubs Update 2pc Kit FJ60 FJ62 - VintageTEqParts.com
- Color Temperature LED Technology - FJ60 FJ62 HVAC Selector Levers Lighted Panel Display - & - Round Blue A/C Push Button...
vintageteqparts.com
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Color Temperature LED HVAC Selector Levers Lighted Panel Display & Round Blue A/C Push Button Knob Latest MODERN SPECIAL COLOR Temperature Matched LUMENS LED Blubs Update 2pc Kit FJ60 FJ62 - VintageTEqParts.com
- Color Temperature LED Technology - FJ60 FJ62 HVAC Selector Levers Lighted Panel Display - & - Round Blue A/C Push Button...
vintageteqparts.com
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REKCUT
SILVER Star
I replaced the sending unit in head with the aftermarket mechanical gauge. Did the same with the oil pressure. The display is then in a new gauge pod I mounted by the dash. The factory gauges no longer function.
A mechanical gauge does not use power to function. A thermometer. It functions all the time.
There are many threads on here about installing a mechanical gauge
A mechanical gauge does not use power to function. A thermometer. It functions all the time.
There are many threads on here about installing a mechanical gauge
REKCUT
SILVER Star
Mechanical oil pressure gauge install
I have been wanting to install a mechanical oil pressure gauge for some time. I have heard that the stock electrical oil pressure gauge is only one step above an idiot light. So I made the plunge. I decided to install a Sunpro gauge mostly because cost was an issue and I had heard good...
forum.ih8mud.com
This is a very informative thread. Lots of great input.
I’ve got a scenario for the brain trust.
Dyno tuned Mosley 2F. Runs perfect. New OEM red fan clutch, water pump etc…all stock
I have about 250 miles on the break in.
Sniper and OEM temp gauges. OEM is in head. Sniper is in rear if the engine at block drain where I put all of them on my Snipers (20 plus)
Ambient temperatures during all 250 miles have been in the 90s
This truck runs about 215 versus my 60 that is set up just like it that runs around 200 in Same conditions.
Today I pushed it hard and it briefly hit 220. As soon as I slowed down and went to stop and go it dropped to 215 or so.
Got home. Popped the hood. Overflow bottle was full but none had flowed out.
This is across from input hose
This is at the cap
This is shooting the OEM sensor
This is the gauge
This is the Sniper after it sat at idle for about 10 minutes
Cam thinks it’s a 190 thermostat.
What bothers me is that 220. This is all with AC on Blast.
I’ve got a scenario for the brain trust.
Dyno tuned Mosley 2F. Runs perfect. New OEM red fan clutch, water pump etc…all stock
I have about 250 miles on the break in.
Sniper and OEM temp gauges. OEM is in head. Sniper is in rear if the engine at block drain where I put all of them on my Snipers (20 plus)
Ambient temperatures during all 250 miles have been in the 90s
This truck runs about 215 versus my 60 that is set up just like it that runs around 200 in Same conditions.
Today I pushed it hard and it briefly hit 220. As soon as I slowed down and went to stop and go it dropped to 215 or so.
Got home. Popped the hood. Overflow bottle was full but none had flowed out.
This is across from input hose
This is at the cap
This is shooting the OEM sensor
This is the gauge
This is the Sniper after it sat at idle for about 10 minutes
Cam thinks it’s a 190 thermostat.
What bothers me is that 220. This is all with AC on Blast.
I ran my 60 with a sniper across the country in the spring time last year. Went from Florida to Montana completely loaded down. I’m running a 190 T stat.
A few times my truck spiked up to 216 on the warmer days. I never had any issues other than the fuel pump giving out. I monitored that temp gauge with paranoia because I had no way out if I blew my engine up.
I was driving highway speeds with an overload for 12-14 hours a day and made it just fine. I don’t think 220 is too high, but I wouldn’t want it running like that always.
What’s a 190 t stat? I thought there was One t stat
Started the cruiser last night, I have small Pressure in the cooling system which is causing the coolant to boil EARLY, which my mechanic buddy thinks is causing my overheating problems. I’m a side note….
My cruiser spit fire from the exhaust on multiple occasions (no cat) and am wondering why this is happening. Might lean it and advance it a little!
Thanks
Dan
Timing is hot I’d bet. Burp your system more if it’s getting hot too fast.
what’s the radiator?
stock radiator. do you mean IR temps?
Timing is "hot"?
micruz60
Unleaded Regular
Timing is too advanced and too much fuel going into intake manifold.
There are two different T-stats available and they open at different temperatures.
You might also benefit from doing a valve lash check / adjustment.
There are two different T-stats available and they open at different temperatures.
You might also benefit from doing a valve lash check / adjustment.
I installed one from @ToyotaMatt that opens up at a lower temperature.
I'll try adjusting the valves and retarding and leaning timing out a bit.
Final bit of into here --- The dizzy is almost all the way rotated towards the retarded position as is, I could probably get a few more degrees out of it before I run out of turning space. Does this mean I'm a tooth off on the rotor?
Also, I'm running STOCK radiator and wondeirng if this coudl contribute to the problem.
Thanks,
Dan
You very well could be a tooth off. It would run very rough though.
As mentioned above, there is a 180 degree tstat and a 190 degree tstat. The OEM factory one opens at 190. Running the 180 vs the 190 has an effect on fuel economy and its kind of complicated to explain and I’ve got to get ready for work. But, I’ll say this: I ran a 180 for years and never really thought anything of it until I did a whole cooling system overhaul and installed the 190. I think the truck is happier running a little hotter.
If your stock radiator is clogged, then yes it could cause issues, but I think you have air in the system still. Put a jack under the front diff and lift it in the air a few feet and burp the system again. Lifting it will promote the air bubbles to the top of the radiator.
As mentioned above, there is a 180 degree tstat and a 190 degree tstat. The OEM factory one opens at 190. Running the 180 vs the 190 has an effect on fuel economy and its kind of complicated to explain and I’ve got to get ready for work. But, I’ll say this: I ran a 180 for years and never really thought anything of it until I did a whole cooling system overhaul and installed the 190. I think the truck is happier running a little hotter.
If your stock radiator is clogged, then yes it could cause issues, but I think you have air in the system still. Put a jack under the front diff and lift it in the air a few feet and burp the system again. Lifting it will promote the air bubbles to the top of the radiator.
ake a lookie see below Nolan ,
my Rookie Year 1988 Dealership Parts Cataloger , covers both the 82' C and the 88' C .....
note the TEMP. Range spreads ?
i have not seen this in any later EPC's and such ?
keep in mind here that is Celsius
if you convert that spread to Fahrenheit , then the spread will become more grater appart
this may be relevant
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micruz60
Unleaded Regular
@Beehanger
What is the RPM at idle speed- if you are able to raise front of truck to help burp it- do this until the temp gauge reaches normal operating point, have the radiator cap off, then shut off engine. Coolant level should drop in filler neck as air is purged out of engine.
If your idle is above 850 then I think you may be right about the dizzy being off. Vexing process !
What is the RPM at idle speed- if you are able to raise front of truck to help burp it- do this until the temp gauge reaches normal operating point, have the radiator cap off, then shut off engine. Coolant level should drop in filler neck as air is purged out of engine.
If your idle is above 850 then I think you may be right about the dizzy being off. Vexing process !
Like 1100, I can get it down to about 850 but it starts sounding like s***. I literally have timing set to -1 from BTDC according to the timing light, so how could it be off still? If it was a tooth off I thought it wouldnt be able able to get the timing light to flash the BB at this point, or am I mistaken?
What do you mean by coolant level should drop in filler neck as air is purged out, you mean spills into the overlfow resevoir?
Dan
