Average 2F engine temperature

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Feb 10, 2003
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I would like to know what the average temperature spread is for a stock 2F in an FJ60. From daily city driving to carrying a load, etc.

I tried a search but didn't get this narrowed down. I am buying a temp guage and want to know which "degrees"-spread to get.

Also, what's your opinion on a mechanical vs. electrical guage for engine (water) temp and oil pressure?
 
Ideally your truck should run within 10%+/- of the thermostat. Most 2F's have a 190 deg F (88C) thermostat so 180-210 would be considered normal. I have seen many 2F's run rock steady at 190 winter and summer in all conditions.


Dynosoar:zilla:
 
189 all the time once it warms up. I have installed mechanical guages and there great.
 
agreed!

a 2F wont see temps(typcialy higher than a 2f) like a SBC nor do you want it to.

mine run pretty much 185-200, this is the same with all mine, all have repaired/replaced full coolent systems with OEM or better parts.


Ideally your truck should run within 10%+/- of the thermostat. Most 2F's have a 190 deg F (88C) thermostat so 180-210 would be considered normal. I have seen many 2F's run rock steady at 190 winter and summer in all conditions.


Dynosoar:zilla:
 
180-190 on two 2F's, but usually closer to 180. Each has an Autometer gauge hooked up, one mechanical and the other electric.

Yep...

Even my turbo motor does not go over 190*
 
at a dead solid right angle and level for me... :) If it is properly warmed and is pointing a little high, then I know it is not happy and needs a coolant adjustment... if it is pointing a little low, it must be below 40 degrees outside and I am within the first 30 minutes of drive time. I don't have a temp gauge or anything... I just kinda trust the gauges.

These things have personalities. I know it will start after a few cranks in the summer, but in the winter my Optima battery and my starter are going to get a good work out. She is just a cold starting bitch!
 
Ideally your truck should run within 10%+/- of the thermostat. Most 2F's have a 190 deg F (88C) thermostat so 180-210 would be considered normal. I have seen many 2F's run rock steady at 190 winter and summer in all conditions.


Dynosoar:zilla:

Yup - exactly ... Mine will occasionally creep up to 195 after a hard run, and it's warm outside, but otherwise right at 190 w/ 88* C t'stat and autometer gauge.
 
Ditto on the above temperatures: Mine runs 188 normal days, 210 loaded going up a grade in summer, and around 174 last night when mud whompin :D
 
The Autometer gauge in my 40 is calibrated from 100 - 280 degrees, but it never quite gets to 190, summer or winter.
 
:):steer:
DSCN0679.webp
 
My overloaded beast of burden weighing in at 5800 LBS runs at 200-210 when I am running full out on the freeway. 190 around town, and 220' once on a hot day going up a very steep and long grade. It is very predictable but the motor is working harder due to the weight.

MARK
 
Does anyone know where I can mount a mechanical water temp gauge into the engine?

yes...in the cylinder head where the OEM temp sender is (replace it), there are a few threads on doing this where you also need a spacer/bushing. Also you can install it (in-line) with your radiator hose (there are various adapters you can buy to do this), or you could drill and tap a suitable location.

Use the search tool and surf around for temp gauge install.
 
I plan on tapping my thermostat housing for a sending unit. I've got an extra one and I'm desmogged.
 
Does anyone know where I can mount a mechanical water temp gauge into the engine?

This spot is the least painful to install & will sense thermostat outlet temperature & lets you keep the stock sender where it is (so you can have two gauges). It's good (I think) to keep the stock temperature sender where it is if the gauge still works. The rear sender location isn't ideal for a mechanical sender install because the sender is gigantic & the adapter fitting is huge & the sender is installed vertically, trapping a lot of air. Also the temperature of the coolant is hotter at the rear of the head than the thermostat outlet, giving the impression that the engine is running hot (while it actually isn't).

image.webp
 
This spot is the least painful to install & will sense thermostat outlet temperature & lets you keep the stock sender where it is (so you can have two gauges). It's good (I think) to keep the stock temperature sender where it is if the gauge still works. The rear sender location isn't ideal for a mechanical sender install because the sender is gigantic & the adapter fitting is huge & the sender is installed vertically, trapping a lot of air. Also the temperature of the coolant is hotter at the rear of the head than the thermostat outlet, giving the impression that the engine is running hot (while it actually isn't).

View attachment 1434517
OS - where did you get that rad hose inline setup?
 
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