Yeah
Average 2F engine temperature
- Thread starter 4lowNgo
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Its weird though, This IR gun is showing me different readings than the other one I just found, as it cools off its saying 20 degrees hotter for the block than the other one..... But if I put it on a wall it says the same temp. same goes for the head, shows 20-30 degrees hotter.
Once again, the in cab Coolant temp gauge never hit The red but got damn close for a second before we killed it. There were only 2 gallons of coolant in for the 10 minutes it ran-- could this have made the temp gauge off?
Brand new bench tested cluster from @ToyotaMatt so I trust it, but not sure if low coolant can cause the system to have bad readings.
IR gun temps are going to be hotter than coolant temp. IR on the head shouldn't get above 240ish* depending on where you put the IR dot - Block will be hotter depending on where you put the IR dot. Temps with IR gun will vary depending on where you place to dot.
New engine is tight and will run a littler hotter until broken in.
Cooling system should be filled and burped best you can do. Heater valve should be wide open.
Change your break-in oil and filter after break-in.
New engine is tight and will run a littler hotter until broken in.
Cooling system should be filled and burped best you can do. Heater valve should be wide open.
Change your break-in oil and filter after break-in.
As Alf said, put as much coolant in the system as you can before you fire it up again. That’s partly why the head got hot like that.
You will experience the temperatures rising after the engine is turned off. The coolant is holding much of the heat as the engine is running. As it is pumped through the radiator that heat is dissipated through the fins. Once the engine stops running it’s no longer pumping through the radiator so the heat begins to dissipate through the iron block itself to the cooler air around it. It is completely normal operation for this heat sinking to happen. Don’t let that alarm you.
Do not run that thing again until you get it topped off with coolant. And as it’s running keep topping it off as it burps air from the system. The water pump has to push coolant all the way to the very top of the engine to push all the air out. Sometimes it can take a few days for all the air pockets to work themselves out. But you should have the vast majority of the coolant in the system before you start running it again.
Alf also mentioned keeping the heaters turned on. Do this. The whole coolant system is connected and you need to push all the air out of the whole thing.
You will experience the temperatures rising after the engine is turned off. The coolant is holding much of the heat as the engine is running. As it is pumped through the radiator that heat is dissipated through the fins. Once the engine stops running it’s no longer pumping through the radiator so the heat begins to dissipate through the iron block itself to the cooler air around it. It is completely normal operation for this heat sinking to happen. Don’t let that alarm you.
Do not run that thing again until you get it topped off with coolant. And as it’s running keep topping it off as it burps air from the system. The water pump has to push coolant all the way to the very top of the engine to push all the air out. Sometimes it can take a few days for all the air pockets to work themselves out. But you should have the vast majority of the coolant in the system before you start running it again.
Alf also mentioned keeping the heaters turned on. Do this. The whole coolant system is connected and you need to push all the air out of the whole thing.
Gotcha
How would I know if I did damage to the head?
Head probably was hot for a lot longer than the block FYI as I was getting 220 readings almost immedaitely after we fired it up, and a peak of 266
Also, the heaters DID NOT work when the rig was running, and i deleted rear heater. Could this pose an issue?
Rear heater open too?
Only if you have it. If it's deleted, just the valve wide open to purge the air and aid in cooling.
Cruising in southern Wisconsin. When I was in Arizona it could be anywhere from 190-220 depending on outside temp.
Completely new cooling system and mishimoto radiator.
Completely new cooling system and mishimoto radiator.
If you damaged the head you’ll know when you start blowing head gaskets. If that heat damaged anything it would likely have warped the head. Possibly could have caused a crack, but you’d probably know that pretty quickly when it starts running like crap and you can’t figure out how to adjust it to run smooth.
I wouldn’t sweat it too much. These engines are massive beasts and can take abuse. It’s not a fancy modern aluminum block. It’s not completely indestructible, but it’s forgiving.
Just keep your eye on the coolant and the oil as you break it in for the next 500-1,000 miles. You should be draining the oil once or twice within the first 500 miles. If you’re getting contamination between the two then you’ve likely got a warped head. If you get through the break in process with no cross contamination and everything is running and sounding nice, then I’d say you made it by okay.
Lessons learned!
Keeping the valve closed shuts the heater off from the circulation of the coolant. This would leave a big air pocket in the system that would burp itself into the block as soon as you turn on the heater in the winter time. It would cause temperature fluctuations and spikes, but not until that air was introduced to the circulation.
Open the heater valves. Before you crank it up again, take the top radiator hose off the radiator side and turn it up so that it opens at the sky. This will allow you to pour coolant into the hose and directly into the block. If you add all the coolant into the radiator it has to flow through tiny passages and then it has to be forced up into the block by the water pump. If there’s no water in the block then there’s no water at the pump. If there’s no water at the pump there’s no way to circulate it through the system.
Get coolant into the block and then fill the radiator as far as it will go. Once the pump starts moving the coolant through the system you’ll see the temps stabilize and you’ll be able to see coolant circulate through the top of the radiator.
Does this make sense to you?
Watch some videos on burping air from a coolant system. It’s easy and straightforward once you get the majority of the coolant in the system. But it’s gotta be in there for it to actually keep the engine from overheating.
What do you mean by "see the coolant circulate through the top of the radiator"?
Yes, and for clarification, you mean open BOTH rear and front heaters even though i deleted rear heater?
And as for adding coolant, just throw it into the block until the radiator tube is just about overflowing, then add it in as the rig runs?
Dan
You will see currents flowing in the coolant like it’s starting to boil. That means the thermostat is open and the hot fluid is pumping from the block into the radiator. Good news.
Whatever heaters you have installed, turn them on. Don’t over think it. If you deleted your rear heater, fine, your system is just a few ounces smaller than factory. Just make sure whatever is there is on so it’s circulating.
Yes, fill the block till the radiator line is basically full. Then reconnect it to the radiator. Then start the truck. Then while the truck is running, using a funnel, add coolant into the radiator as it’s purging air from the system. Kinda tricky to know when it’s done your first time, so do the math and know how much you’ve added vs how much the FSM calls for. Keep in mind if you deleted the rear heater you’ll need to use a few ounces less.
If the engine is running at an even temperature around 190-200 and you see coolant at the top of the radiator fill neck then you probably have most of it full.
A tip for burping air from the system is to get a leather glove and VERY CAREFULLY !!while being mindful of the fan blades!! Grab the top radiator hose and squeeze it. That spot is usually a high point and catches bubbles. You can massage them out if you are very very careful not to burn yourself or touch the fan. Again, caution!! You will feel the difference between an air bubble and when it’s full. When it’s full and you feel no air bubbles in the top line you’re likely good to go.
Finish your break in and start driving. Every day get the truck on an incline where the engine is facing up a hill so that the top of the radiator is tipped higher than if it was sitting flat. As the engine is running start burping the system like I described with your hand. Add more coolant if needed. As you drive the next few days or weeks smaller air pockets will likely work themselves out and they’ll get trapped in the top radiator line. Once all the air is out you should be good to go for about 2-3 years before you need to drain and replace the fluid. Get used to doing it on a regular basis and learn how to purge the air. It will help you a lot in maintaining the vehicle for years to come. So many people neglect the coolant and that’ll kill the engine.
Whatever heaters you have installed, turn them on. Don’t over think it. If you deleted your rear heater, fine, your system is just a few ounces smaller than factory. Just make sure whatever is there is on so it’s circulating.
Yes, fill the block till the radiator line is basically full. Then reconnect it to the radiator. Then start the truck. Then while the truck is running, using a funnel, add coolant into the radiator as it’s purging air from the system. Kinda tricky to know when it’s done your first time, so do the math and know how much you’ve added vs how much the FSM calls for. Keep in mind if you deleted the rear heater you’ll need to use a few ounces less.
If the engine is running at an even temperature around 190-200 and you see coolant at the top of the radiator fill neck then you probably have most of it full.
A tip for burping air from the system is to get a leather glove and VERY CAREFULLY !!while being mindful of the fan blades!! Grab the top radiator hose and squeeze it. That spot is usually a high point and catches bubbles. You can massage them out if you are very very careful not to burn yourself or touch the fan. Again, caution!! You will feel the difference between an air bubble and when it’s full. When it’s full and you feel no air bubbles in the top line you’re likely good to go.
Finish your break in and start driving. Every day get the truck on an incline where the engine is facing up a hill so that the top of the radiator is tipped higher than if it was sitting flat. As the engine is running start burping the system like I described with your hand. Add more coolant if needed. As you drive the next few days or weeks smaller air pockets will likely work themselves out and they’ll get trapped in the top radiator line. Once all the air is out you should be good to go for about 2-3 years before you need to drain and replace the fluid. Get used to doing it on a regular basis and learn how to purge the air. It will help you a lot in maintaining the vehicle for years to come. So many people neglect the coolant and that’ll kill the engine.
Just fired it up again. The DRIVERS side of the engine is much hotter than the passengers side, is this normal? Passenger side reading 195 after running for 7 minutes, drivers reading 240.
The rig also dies if I let my foot off the pedal, gives out at 840 rpm about. Is this the rear fast idle screw? And does timing have anything to play with that here either?
1911
chupacabra
That's the side with the exhaust manifold and downpipe, so yeah. Headers make it worse; they radiate a ton of heat.
Did you use the stock sensors or install separate sensors so the stock gauges would work also?
REKCUT
SILVER Star
I replaced the factory dummy gauge with the mechanical one in the same hole. Gives actual readings including after you turn off the truck and you can see it rise
