Auxiliary fuse/relay panel (2 Viewers)

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I had a question before i put in an order....

1) I would like to have this relay box operate my roof rack lights. If I wanted to put one master switch to turn on and off all the roof rack light bar switches, how would I wire this?

2) will this switch box handle 1-50" lightbar 4-20" lightbars 4-6" lightbars and 4-4" led lights and 2-10" lightbars?

or how could i adapt your box to do so?

forgot the 8-rigid duallys for the rock lights

is you truck call the "Photon Torpedo"

Man that is a lot of lights, maybe is easier to take of the welding hood before driving at night..:)

Actually I have half as many lights as you do and wondering the exact same things, but is not because i need them all at ones (You can peal paint that way) but because I like them (for example old Borg Wagner H4 so I have low/high beam on Aux lights.)
 
No big deal with the waterproofing..

I have work on a few dakar/baja race vehicles, mostly motorcycles but also a few trucks and every part that contains electronics, circuit boards, complex wiring, whatever not moving parts, get the same treatment..

Garmin kind of start the trend for the massive race GPS that keep falling apart half race and fill they with Silicone, Yes, every inch of the inside is solid silicone..

We use epoxi's basically open the unit, seal all the electric ports so the port/connector/interfaces stay clear and open and then build a containment field for the epoxi resin and go to town, well the wires get a special treatment usually with heavy braided high pressure hose so the electric wire does not suffer a failure from the vibration (the hose is semi rigid but still very stiff, so is not "Kink" to it....

I have done the same on my newer BMW bike parts that are prone to fail over time, zero issues..
 
this is so awesome. when I wired up my first cruiser....now roofless....I had to put all the relays under the dash with an auxilary panel that I attached to a piece of cutting board. This is so helpful to have.....so helpful

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Well, after 7 years and nearly 1000 Headlight Harnesses and Aux Panels, I've decided to cease production. I saved out enough parts to take care of any warrantee issues, so if you purchased one of my Headlight Harnesses or Aux Panels, I will continue to take care of you, but I won't be building any new ones. Thanks to everyone for your support.

Erik
 
Thanks for your supporting our 60s.
 
Looking for an elegant solution to controlling your Auxiliary lights and other devices? Fog lights, off road driving lights, radio circuits, and any other high power device requires it's own wire harness. You can't just tap into any old wire you find that has 12 Volts in it. It becomes awkward and dangerous to add another wire to the mess on the positive terminal of the battery every time you add a new device. There are fuse blocks available from Blue Sea and others, but if you also have a relay in your Aux circuit, where do you put that?

With quality parts from major vendors, I have developed a weather resistant fuse/relay panel that can be mounted on top of a wheel well or on the inner fender wall in the engine compartment, and will serve as a central hub for 5 relay switched Aux circuits and up to 5 always on fused Aux circuits. You run only one wire to the battery and with your switches and wires, you can control up to 10 Aux devices (5 switched and up to 5 fused).

My Aux Panel can greatly simplify your wiring. There are only two color coded wires for each relay--a skinny wire and a fat wire. The fat wire is the wire you connect to your device. The skinny wire is the control wire and is connected to a switch that you provide. When you order, you will specify whether you want the relay to be activated when the control wire is switched to ground or when the control wire is switched to 12 volts (hot). Regardless of how the relay control is configured (switched ground or switched hot), 12 Volts is supplied to the fat wire of the same color (or shade thereof) when the relay is activated. That's all there is to it. Using my Aux fuse/relay panel will take the complexity out of wiring your aftermarket devices. See post # 11 in this thread for schematics and further discussion of the switched ground and switched hot option.

Auxiliary fuse/relay panel

The main power lead is a 10 gauge 36 inch wire that is protected by a fusible link. Please specify if you will need to locate the fuse/relay block farther than 36 inches from the battery. Mounted on the brackets, the relay module is 5 inches tall, and at the base of the mount brackets, it is 7 inches by 3.5 inches. So a good way to test for fitment is to cut a 7 inch long piece of 2X4 and use that as a model. The main power lead can be lengthened up to 10 feet total length for an additional $10.

Each individual Aux relay circuit is protected by a 30 amp fuse and each non-switched wire is protected by a 15 amp fuse. The total simultaneous load on the relay/fuse module should not exceed about 60 amps.


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do you still carry these?
 
Since these are no longer in production :frown:, does anyone have any recommendations for a similar pre-wired panel? I just wish I had stumbled upon this thread 3 months ago!!
 
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Since these are no longer in production :frown:, does anyone have any recommendations for a similar pre-wired panel? I just wish I had stumbled upon this thread 3 months ago!!
Amazon has them. Look up bussman
 
Since these are no longer in production :frown:, does anyone have any recommendations for a similar pre-wired panel? I just wish I had stumbled upon this thread 3 months ago!!
theres a prewired bussman fuse block on amazon, plus you can buy all the aprts and assemble yourselves.
 
For those looking for this now-extinct product (sadly), I still have a brand-new one I ordered from Erik a while back. It was never installed. I had him upgrade the main power to 8 gauge cable. There is no fusible link.

It is configured as a "B" per the schematic in this post: Auxiliary fuse/relay panel

I am selling for $100 shipped to anywhere in the continental US. Please send me a PM if interested.
 
PM sent!

For those looking for this now-extinct product (sadly), I still have a brand-new one I ordered from Erik a while back. It was never installed. I had him upgrade the main power to 8 gauge cable. There is no fusible link.

It is configured as a "B" per the schematic in this post: Auxiliary fuse/relay panel

I am selling for $100 shipped to anywhere in the continental US. Please send me a PM if interested.
 
Erik,
I have the aux panel configured in option C.
For providing 12v switched power to each thin wire on the panel, I would like to use a wire coming from the ignition switch accessory terminal and run it back to each thin wire as mentioned. I will solder on a wire on the ignition switch for this [ Suzuki Samurai ].

Question; how much current / draw will there be on this wire that I will add to the ign switch with all 5 of the panel circuits being used? Wondering if it is too much draw for a single wire coming from a single source?

Thanks.
 
Anyone??
How did the rest of you that have this fuse panel in configuration C, supply switched 12v current to the 5 circuits?
 
Anyone??
How did the rest of you that have this fuse panel in configuration C, supply switched 12v current to the 5 circuits?

The current that will run through your ignition-switched wire will only be triggering the relays and running indicator lights in your switches (if so equipped.) This should be very little amperage - I don't know specs on the relays used, but each relay should use less than 1/2 amp to trigger, and the LED indicator in your switches should use even less than that - of course that can depend on what switches you run. I would make sure that the indicators are indeed LED and not incandescent bulbs.

Run a 5-7 amp fuse in the wire you run from your Samurai ignition switch to the new panel and you should be fine.
 
Thank you Bryson for that info. Yes, I knew that the current needed to operate the relays was low.
Adding a fuse is a good idea, I'll do that.
I guess the cleanest / most organized way of getting one wire [ from the ign switch ] through the firewall, to the 5 relays in the said fuse panel, is with a terminal block?
 

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