Auxiliary fuse/relay panel (11 Viewers)

[TreadingLight]

Bump to a legacy thread, what is the go to aux relay box now?

There are a hunch of options depending on what you want to control and where you want to put the components. LittleFuse makes a sealed ip67 box with no bus. SPOD makes some cool MOSFET solid state stuff, albeit pricey. For headlights only lots of people are just using the Koito harness (talk to ToyotaMatt).

But I want OEM switches, a waterproof box underhood and internal bussing. The RTMR is the only thing I have found that covers the bases. It is a DIY project. Parts from DelCity and Waytek are inbound as I type ...

 

[Rustyj41]

There are a hunch of options depending on what you want to control and where you want to put the components. LittleFuse makes a sealed ip67 box with no bus. SPOD makes some cool MOSFET solid state stuff, albeit pricey. For headlights only lots of people are just using the Koito harness (talk to ToyotaMatt).

But I want OEM switches, a waterproof box underhood and internal bussing. The RTMR is the only thing I have found that covers the bases. It is a DIY project. Parts from DelCity and Waytek are inbound as I type ...

Keep me posted on that. I’m along the same lines as you.

 

[duurt]

Reviving this old thread once again. Does anyone have one of these pre-built Bussmans laying around that they might be willing to part with?

I will build one myself if need be, but would much prefer something ready to install that will support OEM switches and keep my cabin looking analog.

 

[LINUS]

Reviving this old thread once again. Does anyone have one of these pre-built Bussmans laying around that they might be willing to part with?

I will build one myself if need be, but would much prefer something ready to install that will support OEM switches and keep my cabin looking analog.

OK …… yeah - I do have one still in spare bedroom/ opened box & looked at & then never installed.
Let me find the box before you get hopes up - I gotta TON of my saltwater fish stuff stack in front of it since we didn’t have a salmon opener/window this Dec/Jan.

Gimme a few, but I have one.

 

[duurt]

OK …… yeah - I do have one still in spare bedroom/ opened box & looked at & then never installed.
Let me find the box before you get hopes up - I gotta TON of my saltwater fish stuff stack in front of it since we didn’t have a salmon opener/window this Dec/Jan.

Gimme a few, but I have one.

Thanks Linus, I'll stay tuned.

 

[Craptaztic]

I'm in the same boat as duurt: so if anyone else has a prebuilt one then I'm looking to buy one in the next month or two. I really need to get away from plopping in a big fuse to power a fuse block where I put/pull fuses to turn accessories on and off: pretty sure I'm going to fry something somewhere if I keep doing that.

Note: I found one source that sell all the parts as a kit but dang do I just not have all the crimping tools.

 

[TreadingLight]

That's a tough one - they are pretty time consuming to build and with all the variations in cruisers and OEM switches vs ground switched circuits vs illuminated switches there's a bazillion variations on what someone might want. Not too many laying around, and while you may find one of @slcfj62's Ultimate Fusebox builds, it might not be the one you want.

If anyone wants to build one and has questions I'd be happy to share info, advice, part #s, etc.

If you're in the US, you can buy the components at delcity.net and a crimper on Amazon. Expect to spend around $100 on the box, fuses, relays, terminals, wire, loom, etc.

 

[LINUS]

I'm in the same boat as duurt: so if anyone else has a prebuilt one then I'm looking to buy one in the next month or two. I really need to get away from plopping in a big fuse to power a fuse block where I put/pull fuses to turn accessories on and off: pretty sure I'm going to fry something somewhere if I keep doing that.

Note: I found one source that sell all the parts as a kit but dang do I just not have all the crimping tools.

Sorry - mine went to a cool 80 fella just this last week. 1 less NIB that went to a fully deserving guy.

But Bussmann is a gold standard - esp in marine applications.

If you just can’t find one, Blue Seas makes quality fuse blocks — IDK their lineup but you can do a relay bank in Bussmann.

IDK if Blue Seas has that option in their inventory.

HTH.

 

[LINUS]

Thanks Linus, I'll stay tuned.

Sorry you never got back when I replied to your PM. It was a few months difference.

Mine is gone as I’ll be sadly selling my 80 to raise $$ for raw land.

I’ll miss this 80 - my 1st of 3 I held onto & only has ~148K & tons of mods like full factory harness e-locker retrofits.

Have had it since ‘02 - so a solid 2 decades.

 

[Craptaztic]

Thank you all. I figured it was a long shot. With that said let me give you guys a few links:

These guys have a few dual buss units assembled for about 150 ea:
Waterproof Universal Off Road Fuse and Relay Power Distribution Center - https://bp-automotive.com/product/waterproof-universal-off-road-fuse-relay-power-distribution-center/

Eaton Bussmann Fuse & Relay Box (IP66 Rated) - Compact Dual Bussed - 15305-2-6-4

Bussmann 15305-2-6-4 Compact fuse & relay box versatile enough to power to your race car or your 4x4 ancillaries & accessories all packed into a rugged, weather tight enclosure (IP66 rated). With provision for up to 5 relays and 10 fuses, each kit comes with the relevant pins and seals. Options...

www.nrtautomotive.com.au

These guys have unassembled dual buss kits with wildly varied pricing:

Bussmann PDMKIT003 10 Circuit Minifuse & 5 Circuit Relay Block Kit

Bussmann 10 Circuit Minifuse & 5 Circuit Relay Block Kit

www.autoelectricalparts.com.au

Fused Relay Box (FRB)

Integrate a 12V-16V fused relay system into your vehicle with the Fused Relay Box kit. Once assembled, it creates an automotive power distribution center.

racespeconline.com

Between these guys, there might be 30 to 40 left ever based on the discontinued Eaton 15303-2-2-4 and the highly detailed tacoma world buildout DIY - Build and install a Bussmann RTMR Fuse/Relay Block - https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-build-and-install-a-bussmann-rtmr-fuse-relay-block.399454/

Don't hate me, but after the replies above I went ahead and late-night-ordered two from BPAuto.

 

[TreadingLight]

Those are really good deals. Keep in mind that the first one is prewired and has a common ground on the relay coils. This means you have to switch the positive side. Good for auxiliary circuits (offroad lights, etc) but you can't operate / integrate with ground switched circuits like 60 series headlights or many electric cooling fans.

Between these guys, there might be 30 to 40 left ever based on the discontinued Eaton 15303-2-2-4

I haven't seen anything about these being discontinued before. I just bought one last week and they are still listed in Eaton's catalog?

 

[Craptaztic]

Those are really good deals. Keep in mind that the first one is prewired and has a common ground on the relay coils. This means you have to switch the positive side. Good for auxiliary circuits (offroad lights, etc) but you can't operate / integrate with ground switched circuits like 60 series headlights or many electric cooling fans.



I haven't seen anything about these being discontinued before. I just bought one last week and they are still listed in Eaton's catalog?

so not like this?

Waytek listed this specific model as discontinued. It’s out of stock at mouser too and double the normal price on amazon.

 

[TreadingLight]

It looks like it is set up like that. If you use resistor type relays (as opposed to the diode ones) they don't care if they are upside down or not. I guess you could put +12v on both buses. The real limitation is that you can't have a mix of + / - switched relays.

For example, on a 40 with + switched headlights and a - switched cooling fan.

That may be fine depending on your application.

As for being discontinued, all I know is you can buy dual bus RTMRs at delcity at normal prices.

 

[Craptaztic]

It looks like it is set up like that. If you use resistor type relays (as opposed to the diode ones) they don't care if they are upside down or not. I guess you could put +12v on both buses. The real limitation is that you can't have a mix of + / - switched relays.

For example, on a 40 with + switched headlights and a - switched cooling fan.

That may be fine depending on your application.

As for being discontinued, all I know is you can buy dual bus RTMRs at delcity at normal prices.

Got it. I think (hope) most of the accessories I plan to power through this are simple "if you complete the circuit, I will turn on" and that will work for my lx470: currently installed stuff includes front & rear light bars, air compressor, ARB Fridge.

In the future this will include front/rear Eaton Elockers, 50W radio w/ battery booster (voltage stabilizer), winch isolator relay/solenoid, and inverter.

 

[Craptaztic]

Okay, so I may have bitten before I should've. The BP automotive block is not wired like the one detailed in the tacomaworld thread:
Tacomaworld:

BPAuto:

Question is, can I do anything with it.

False alarm. I repeat false alarm. It's wired the same: it just has the positive coming from the fuse to the relay at one side of the switch pins vs the other (e.g., it's going to pin 30). It also has a bunch of fuse-only wire outs on the positive bank which I may delete. (note: the BPAuto comes with 301-1C-C-R1-U01-12VDC SPDT switches.... but the middle pin is blocked so it acts like SPST?)

 

[TreadingLight]

I don't see why not. This looks a lot like how Eric made his ultimate auxiliary fuse boxes. The tacomaworld one was, as I recall, wired to upgrade halogen headlights.

You'll have three wires per circuit. A switch input, a switch output, and the power output from the relay to your accessory.

I think you're golden.

 

[TreadingLight]

False alarm. I repeat false alarm. It's wired the same: it just has the positive coming from the fuse to the relay at one side of the switch pins vs the other. It also has a bunch of fuse-only wire outs on the positive bank which I may delete. (note: the BPAuto comes with 301-1C-C-R1-U01-12VDC SPDT switches.... but the middle pin is blocked so it acts like SPST?)

The extra fuse-only wires are there as fused switch inputs.

 

[Craptaztic]

The extra fuse-only wires are there as fused switch inputs.

That makes sense. I wouldn't want to burn the wires heading through my fire wall and into the ceiling where my switches are. It does make it harder to pass all those wires through a firewall grommet rather than using a fuse-tap to supply a single positive to the gang of switches. The tacoworld post did that and only had one wire for each switch plus one positive supply line coming through the firewall. (He tapped into the dash light line for a positive input for independent lights on his rocker switches.)

I may sideline all but one for each switch-gang (currently only have one 6-switch gang).

One thing for future reference: can I energize the coil on a solenoid (sized to isolate a battery, winch, or HAM radio) directly through a switch or should that go through a relay?

 

[TreadingLight]

Directly.

 

[psuarez00]

Does anyone have one these they would like to sell?