Auxiliary fuse/relay panel (1 Viewer)

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I'm going to take a step back and apologize for calling you out. Just being an informed consumer and not interested in adversely impacting your business.

IP66 is important to me because if I'm going to go through the trouble of rewiring my entire vehicle I'm going to make damn sure that it gets the best workmanship possible. In the case of this panel, IP66 is the best that can be achieved so that's what I'm doing. IP66 refers to streams of water and time which is not unlike a river crossing but somewhat different from surviving a flood. I'm building for river crossings.

As far as my application is concerned I decided to bus the ignition trigger inside the vehicle and have individual grounds for the relays. See it wasn't really a problem more so an annoyance for which I politely reached out to a pro for guidance.

When I sniffed out your ruse I called you out and I again apologize for that.

Going forward you'll either act on the feedback, adjust your product, and raise the price to compensate you for the additional time and materials or ignore it and/or start a new thread.

Next move is yours. Which will it be?
 
I'm not sure what you are sniffing, but it isn't a ruse on my part. You are attempting to goad me into solving a problem you can't seem to figure out on your own. Respected users on the MUD community can vouch for the fact that I am helpful to a fault. I even post the schematics for the headlight harnesses I build for those that wish to build their own. But when you come on here as a newbie user with an arrogant attitude and a hidden agenda, I don't feel obligated or interested in helping out at all. Especially when you then smugly think you are calling me out about something? Whatever feedback you think you are giving is based on what? That you sniffed something? Perhaps you think I don't know what I am doing or that I am not familiar with the Ingress Protection standards and have been building substandard relay panels. Is this what you think you have sniffed out?

I'm not worried about you adversely impacting my business. I've been doing this long enough and have sold enough relay panels and headlight harnesses, that nothing you can say would even put a dent in it. There are literally hundreds of people that have purchased these from me that would tell you that you should check your sniffing abilities. I have been building these to IP66 standards for six years now, and have had panels sent back for modification or repair that have been in service for years with no water or dust ingress. In fact, I have placed into service nearly 800 relay panels and headlight harnesses and have had less than 10 returned for repair. None of the repairs included any failure or corrosion in the relay panel itself.

So, next time you want some help from a professional, try a little less arrogance, and be a little more forthcoming.

Good luck with your wiring project. You will find that building the Bussmann relay panel to IP66 standards is the easy part. Wiring the rest of the vehicle to IP66 standards will be the hard part. Based on the simple questions you are asking me, you may not be successful.
 
I know you've built lots of harnesses for lots of people and are a respected person on this forum. I just pointed out that you modified your post apparently because you changed your mind about the statement of never building panels with more than one wire per seal. Any reasonable person would come to the conclusion I did. Paranoia almost always sets in when you feel you are under attack (but I'm not attacking you).

So do your panels have more than one wire per seal or not? I'm dying to know the answer!!!
 
Good grief, is that how you think you sniffed out my ruse? I'm tempted to not answer you and let others do that for me, but lest someone think I'm being hard-headed, the answer is no. Two wires in one seal would negate the IP66 standard and allow both water and dust in. So of course I don't build my panels that way. The fact that I stated I adhere to the IP66 standard should have already answered that for you. It's because of people like you that I don't mention IP66. It leads to silly and pointless discussions.
 
There's probably nothing I can say right now that will make you less annoyed but I'll try anyway.

Lots gets lost (say that 3 times fast) in a text environment. Context, tone, and personality are virtually imperceptible which often leads to misunderstood intentions. My being new to the site probably didn't help either as you had no other data points to reference so its not difficult to see how this was a one way deal with some random internet a-hole trying to blemish your work. When I see things from your lens it puts this conversation into perspective so to frame this conversation from my point of view I'll wrap up with saying that my intentions were (and are) of climbing up the automotive wiring learning curve very quickly and I learn things every day. Like today I learned that I'm not getting as big a bonus this year as I did last and the RTMR panel I have uses different terminals than the RFRM. I'm hopeful tomorrow will be a better day for both of us

:deadhorse:
 
I accept your explanation and no hard feelings. Yes, the two panels use different terminals which is annoying. The same crimper works for both but will set you back about $100. Bussmann makes mounting brackets for the small but not the large panel. It's a shame because the screw hole pattern is only about a quarter inch different. Had they thought about it, they could have made the hole pattern the same. They don't even make a mounting bracket for the larger one. At least the seals and the plugs are the same for both panels.

So anyway, here's to a brighter future.
 
slcfj62 said:
...the two panels use different terminals which is annoying...
Click to expand...

Annoying is right! What I don't get is why the RTMR data sheet shows it uses Metri Pack 280 with sealed terminals. That's the same as what I have for the RFRM. I've been using MP 280 connectors wherever possible all to reduce part #s for spares and to save $ buying in bulk. Now I'm going to have to return the small panel and get another large one. Bright side is when I'm done I'll still have enough room to wire the space shuttle.

Btw I ordered a CH 80 amp continuous duty solenoid for the radiator fan but now that I've decided to get a second 10 relay panel think I might split two relays for it. What would Jeebus do?
 
Cool beans. This is some tedious s*** and if I were to do it all over again I would consider buying one of your assembled panels. :)
 
Depends on whether you want to wire it yourself or buy prewired. You can get the bare panel on Waytek by searching RFRM or contact slcfj62 for one already wired.
 
@rebelman21, I would recommend getting the pre-wired panel. If you add up the cost of all the parts from Waytek wire, and the tools you need to do this correctly, you can't pay yourself lowly enough for your time to justify a DIY. I got mine today and the quality is top-notch. He even accomodated a last minute request at no charge. That's service!
 
Just message @slcfj62. That's what I have done in the past, and he's taken good care of me.
 
You still making the boxes....if so can or do you also make the Bussman with the 10 relay box? I bought one of your RTMR boxes about a year ago and my friend wants one for his rig he is currently building....love this thing!!!! Made my wiring sooooooo EASY
 
slcfj62 said:
Looking for an elegant solution to controlling your Auxiliary lights and other devices? Fog lights, off road driving lights, radio circuits, and any other high power device requires it's own wire harness. You can't just tap into any old wire you find that has 12 Volts in it. It becomes awkward and dangerous to add another wire to the mess on the positive terminal of the battery every time you add a new device. There are fuse blocks available from Blue Sea and others, but if you also have a relay in your Aux circuit, where do you put that?

With quality parts from major vendors, I have developed a weather resistant fuse/relay panel that can be mounted on top of a wheel well or on the inner fender wall in the engine compartment, and will serve as a central hub for 5 relay switched Aux circuits and up to 5 always on fused Aux circuits. You run only one wire to the battery and with your switches and wires, you can control up to 10 Aux devices (5 switched and up to 5 fused).

My Aux Panel can greatly simplify your wiring. There are only two color coded wires for each relay--a skinny wire and a fat wire. The fat wire is the wire you connect to your device. The skinny wire is the control wire and is connected to a switch that you provide. When you order, you will specify whether you want the relay to be activated when the control wire is switched to ground or when the control wire is switched to 12 volts (hot). Regardless of how the relay control is configured (switched ground or switched hot), 12 Volts is supplied to the fat wire of the same color (or shade thereof) when the relay is activated. That's all there is to it. Using my Aux fuse/relay panel will take the complexity out of wiring your aftermarket devices. See post # 11 in this thread for schematics and further discussion of the switched ground and switched hot option.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/352802-auxiliary-fuse-relay-panel.html#post5240849

The main power lead is a 10 gauge 36 inch wire that is protected by a fusible link. Please specify if you will need to locate the fuse/relay block farther than 36 inches from the battery. Mounted on the brackets, the relay module is 5 inches tall, and at the base of the mount brackets, it is 7 inches by 3.5 inches. So a good way to test for fitment is to cut a 7 inch long piece of 2X4 and use that as a model. The main power lead can be lengthened up to 10 feet total length for an additional $10.

Each individual Aux relay circuit is protected by a 30 amp fuse and each non-switched wire is protected by a 15 amp fuse. The total simultaneous load on the relay/fuse module should not exceed about 60 amps.


View attachment 492096View attachment 492097View attachment 929787
Click to expand...
Very nicely Done, to bad I just found this because I spend the half a day yesterday making a mounting plate for my BlueSea, fuse blocks and breakers, but for sure yours is much nicer, Way nicer..
 
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Where those the high thickness power wire go, I see a smaller gauge red wire connected to the Fuse before the relays, I'm confused..
IMG_0395.jpg


Very nice job by the way..
 
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