AutoZone Calipers

[ranma21]

Ranma, i will tell you a secret.....get in contact with the DM....they are trained not to tell the customer "NO!" If you bitch at them long and loud enough, they will do whatever you are asking of them. They treat their red shirts bad but treat their customers like kings....well the whole customers.

The District Managers phone number is always posted on the right side of the entrance door.

Thanks for the heads up, appreciate that. The point is I would not even think it is worth my time to even argue or complaint with them. Making multiple trips to exchange for product, spending hours on phone calls just doesn't fit my book anymore. I can generate more income with those time spend with them than saving few bucks on most of their below average quality products. Let alone piece of mind with Genuine Toyota parts and years of reliability goes a long long way. So to me, the higher price paid for Genuine Toyota parts is still worth it. On top of that, my time spend with my girls ( wifey and 2 little monsters ) are priceless.

I may be exaggerating, but I have the same feeling towards the service department of Toyota dealer and Lexus dealer in general. I will have to threaten, get angry, raise my voice, making multiple trip to get a problem solve with Toyota dealer, and with Lexus dealer I generally do not have to muscle much to get the problem resolve under warranty. That is my experience with my IS250 and RX350 as well as my new Sienna. You pay for what you get rule always applies.

 

[half k cruiser]

I am running the NAPA eclipse remans on all four corners of the 97 and the fronts of the 94. They appear to be a very good quality reman. For sure they are able to remanufacture a caliper better then I can at home even with OEM parts. I have tried rebuilding before and it just didn't hold up, I think the bores were to far gone. In any case, for $60 a corner I will just stick with these.

 

[Hornd]

After Reading all of this and knowing what I know....I would hands down get the Napa Refurbs.
Had a piston stuck in both calipers and the bodies are in bad shape so that Rules out Rebuild.
The Napa one has a nice black coating. They are about $65 and they have 10% off for AAA Members.
The Raysbestos or Autozone Caliper has no coating, and will be a pile of rust after one winter.

KEEP YOUR BANJO BOLTS.
I put Bolts in the old calipers to keep fluid in, and ended up buy new ones at $6 each with 2 day lead-time.

 

[absalom]

We're getting into semantics here.....

a hot spot can take place where the pad can leave material behind..... you can sand that down with 80g DA then rebed the pads, but if the problem persists, you may need to turn the rotors (if there's enough material) - but rotors can warp.

No, we're not getting into semantics ... you were wrong. Don't try and pretend he's just being overly picky and splitting hairs. 9.9 times out of 10 rotors aren't warped, and when they actually are, the symptoms don't present the same as unevenly distributed pad material.

Thanks for the heads up, appreciate that. The point is I would not even think it is worth my time to even argue or complaint with them. Making multiple trips to exchange for product, spending hours on phone calls just doesn't fit my book anymore. I can generate more income with those time spend with them than saving few bucks on most of their below average quality products. Let alone piece of mind with Genuine Toyota parts and years of reliability goes a long long way. So to me, the higher price paid for Genuine Toyota parts is still worth it. On top of that, my time spend with my girls ( wifey and 2 little monsters ) are priceless.

I may be exaggerating, but I have the same feeling towards the service department of Toyota dealer and Lexus dealer in general. I will have to threaten, get angry, raise my voice, making multiple trip to get a problem solve with Toyota dealer, and with Lexus dealer I generally do not have to muscle much to get the problem resolve under warranty. That is my experience with my IS250 and RX350 as well as my new Sienna. You pay for what you get rule always applies.

Those super thick Lexus profit margins allow them to get away without putting up a fight.

 

[lockd80]

I have used the Oreilly rebuilt lifetime calipers for about eight years, I think they are Advance but dont remember for sure. What I do know is that when i need a caliper i do not have the time to order it from Toyota. These have held up pretty well but they do not seem to like being submerged for long. Usually a month or so after a long water crossing one of the pistons will start to freeze up. It might just be coincidence but its happened three time now. Other than that they work great! Stock brake system and rotors combined with EBC Greenstuff pads (100 series up front) lock up all four 35 inch duratracks before the ABS kicks in.

 

[Loaf]

When I redid the brakes on my 94 I used AutoZone Durlast calipers on all four corners. I couldn't beat the $200ish price tag after core. The only thing I would do prior to installing them is to paint them or coat them. I painted them black after the fact as they rusted almost right away.. The EBC Greenstuff 7000 pads up front and Greenstuff 6000 for the rear work well with the Centric rotors from RockAuto. I put a new master cylinder in too. Bled the system multiple times. Semi spongey pedal feel is annoying but they stop really well when asked too. I have 255/80r17 Cooper STMaxx if anyone is curious...

 

[toyotaspeed90]

No, we're not getting into semantics ... you were wrong. Don't try and pretend he's just being overly picky and splitting hairs. 9.9 times out of 10 rotors aren't warped, and when they actually are, the symptoms don't present the same as unevenly distributed pad material.
Those super thick Lexus profit margins allow them to get away without putting up a fight.

Yes, it's semantics.

If uneven pad being applied to the discs takes place, usually it's embedded hard enough that just hard braking won't slough it off. You must turn it. The symptom will be shaking pedal and/or steering wheel if it's bad enough. Similar can also happen when bolts are unevenly torqued, disc heated, and warpage takes place.

Either way - the symptom can be the same.... the pads must move inward/outward with changing thicknesses/movement of rotor placement - which moves fluid through the caliper (and system) causing the shaking through the pedal.

Resolution is pulling the rotor, checking minimum thickness - if able, turn, if not, replace.

The article that was quoted was saying that the term "warped rotor" is mis used. Within the article they stated the same thing about resolution.