Automotive Machine Shops - Vancouver Island (1 Viewer)

[OceanCable]

Hey guys,

I'm tearing down my 1HD-T for high mileage(350k on the odo + what ever was rolled back..) service as I chose to avoid catastrophic failure as my incentive... therefore no exciting pictures to put in the thread . I'm looking for your personal experience with Island based automotive machine shops to perform head and short block service. The head will come off later today which I believe has never been off as it has a 4 notch head gasket(only 1,3 & 5 available from what I have read).

I plan on supplying my own parts from Toyota/Engines Australia/Noordeman Diesel. I have rebuilt engines before, but not a diesel. I will get the short block assembled by the shop but I would install the head after the block is back in the truck - this thing is heavy. As a machinist myself, I am detail oriented and seek to find a shop that prides themselves in their workmanship.

I am also interested in first hand experience with aftermarket internals such as those provided by Engines Australia and Noordeman Diesel etc.

Shops that I know of or came across online:

1. Island D. Automotive Machine in Nanaimo - These guys seem to have some nice equipment.
2. Wilson & Proctor - Well established diesel shop however I don't know what there walk in service is like as they are known for industrial/fleet work.
3. Cords Alpine - I've used them before but my finish price was double what I was quoted, some of which was understandable...
4. Just Heads - CLOSED/ no more?
5. Mid Island Machine - I only know these guys for doing domestic muscle car type stuff.
6. ???

Thanks for your input!

Chris

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Guys on Keating served me well. But I think their best machinist retired. Can't remember name of place at the moment.

 

[bikersmurf]

JB automotive did great work for me 18+ years ago. I’ve heard their most experienced machinists have retired. No recent experience fortunately (or unfortunately).

 

[OceanCable]

Guys on Keating served me well. But I think their best machinist retired. Can't remember name of place at the moment.

Yeah, that shop was JB precision, then Anderson something and now another name/people. Hard to establish a reputation with that turn over.

 

[OceanCable]

JB automotive did great work for me 18+ years ago. I’ve heard their most experienced machinists have retired. No recent experience fortunately (or unfortunately).

I know of two machinist from back then too, they used to do good work.

 

[OceanCable]

This is #4 & #5(with the obvious valve kissing). #6 has a small but noticeable amount of rotational play... thats not good! #4 and #5 also processed some foreign material as the tops are freckled with dings. #6 has a ding on the edge. Bores look great though, no gouging and cross hatch still clearly visible.

 

[OceanCable]

Who likes pictures? My head is cracked so a new one will be ordered soon. Pistons are out and the bores are okay but will need to be bored out. Crank looks okay so far, I'll get it out soon then off to a machine shop, which one, I have yet to decide...

This is #2, not sure what caused the uneven wear. These are ACL that the PO installed, over 200k on them.

#2 journal looks okay..

Once the crank is out, the engine will finally be manageable. I'm going to weigh up the major pieces for fun, haven't stumbled across that info before. Piston and rod each weigh around 4.5lbs.

 

[cruiserpilot]

So you did pull the engine then. Did you find a machine shop finally? Who is it? If you post the weights I'll do the same
when I refresh the 12HT.

 

[OceanCable]

So you did pull the engine then. Did you find a machine shop finally? Who is it? If you post the weights I'll do the same
when I refresh the 12HT.

I haven't contacted any shops yet. Hopefully I'll pull the crank this weekend, mic all the parts to check if they are in tolerance then phone around. I want to know exactly what I'm asking of them before I contact them. I think many machine shops, like general auto shops don't like customers supplying parts, hopefully that isn't a problem.

 

[bikersmurf]

I fully understand wanting to source the parts. Years back, when I had JB redo the bottom end of my GT6 engine, I opted to have the machine shop order the parts. The parts cost me a bit more, but they fit perfectly. All the clearances were to the tight side of the middle of the range and completely consistent.

If anything I ordered had to be shipped back or repurchased, it would have ended up being more expensive.

 

[Diesel Cruiserman]

A friend of mine is now running Island D Machine, he and the guys from Super Tech purchased the business last year and seem to be doing good work. The shop has some of the new modern machinist tools and equipment.

Warrens back ground was a red seal mechanic then changed gears and worked for Independent Diesel for many years as a parts guy. He was exposed to engine building in the shop as they primarily worked on Diesel engines.

Short of that, I purchased a long block for a customer some 18 years ago from New Zealand Toyota dealer, cost was less than the cobbled up engine another company wanted to build for him.

In the customers experience, he put the engine together and from the get go had a strange noise from the bottom end area. Couple years of driving it, some one indicated it sounded like a worn out oil pump. He changed the oil pump out and the noise went away, something to keep in mind.


Edit...it was a short block, block, crank, rods and pistons.

 

[OceanCable]

Here are the original conrod bearings removed at 137k by wussypup.

#1 @ the top, #5 being the worst.

 

[OceanCable]

Small update, short block is at Powerhouse machining located out Keating/Myra. Evan there has some insight on oil used in these motors and suggested a Lucas diesel oil for pre-2007 engines which has higher zinc values. It isn't particularly costly compared to the reliable Rotella T4 which has served my motor fine for the majority of its 350k + life. Anyone use this product in their diesels?

The block and crank check out so time to order parts. Block will be bored 0.50 mm oversized, crank is good and only needs a polish, big end on the rods will be resized for good measure. Not sure if the block will be decked, probably given the gasket was leaking between cylinders.

Another thing, when I mentioned using ACL bearings on the rods, he wasn't a big fan unless they are the ACL race bearings. The issue being quality, not bearing material. Given that these should be changed out every 100k according to the consensus of cruiser owners, has anyone heard of people using Toyota bearings? Taiho are the other option although I have read that engine builders have found some QC issues on rare occasion. I haven't read anything bad from cruiser owners per se, but engine builders will see subtle things like shell crush height which can be difficult to measure with the rod in the motor.

 

[seapotato]

I did try a jug of zinc additive in my 12ht on one of my last oil changes, it was kindof expensive so I'd meant to find a cheaper source, but totally forgot.

There was no change in engine sound or oil consistency that I noticed while it was in there.

When I did my "refresh" on it, most bearings were Taiho. There was another brand I used for one thing that was in a green/yellow box. NDC bearings I think?


Can't really speak for quality other than I hope it's " good enough that I never find out"

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I second Taiho. No problems here. Regarding Zinc additive oil, I did read it's more helpful for earlier motors than the OHC 1990+ ones....

Nice to see this coming along!