Auto-locker vs e-locker vs air-locker - various types, brands, designs, etc.

[sunrk]

Just watched this video explaining technical differences and issues with Harrop/Eaton e-lockers, ARB air locker and TJM pro lockers (another type of air locker).



It did not cover the other type of locker ie auto-lockers (Detroit, etc.).

I've long-considered at least a rear locker but have resisted to date. At one point in the past I nearly went with getting a Detroit auto-locker but held off. I liked the idea of e-lockers but now don't because of the way they engage/disengage with directional changes.

Having had a bad customer experience with an ARB store I'm reluctant to consider their air locker and even more so now I understand how it works.

I don't know anyone with lockers in their 80 so can't really get first-hand experience with them but have been in a few sticky situations where at least a rear one would be very helpful.

Craig.

 

[Lumpskie]

Great video. I never knew the actual design differences between the various selectable locker brands. As for auto-lockers, I'm sure this can be one of the great Ih8mud debates. My personal opinion is that I prefer selectable. I've had friends go off the side of shelf roads in snow because the auto-locker engaged.

 

[baldilocks]

How about a manual, cable actuated selectable locker?

 

[ChaseTruck]

We've been using ARB air lockers since 1998, starting with my K5 Blazer (first configuration 10b/D60, 4.56, 35s; now D60/14b, 5:13, 37s), the '72 FJ40, and then the '93 80. I recall two structural failures: one on the K5 10-bolt front axle - broke a spider gear (the locker was the first-gen two-spider design; didn't stop me, discovered later...), actually at CruiseMoab on Golden Spike, accompanying my wife in the FJ40 and my Cruiser friends, and another one on the '93 80 - the copper line in the pumpkin broke at the junction to the seal housing, resulting in a loss of locker function. When I shattered a front axle shaft on the K5 (Moab/Pritchett), the locker - which of course was engaged at that time - didn't show any damage, and we replaced the axle shaft on the trail with a new one and continued.

I've managed to melt several air lines on the K5, usually after an exhaust reconfiguration where I didn't pay enough attention, and I had one compressor seal failure that I was able to repair on the trail (again Moab/Golden Spike) without much delay. Over time we've replaced the original compressors with mini compressors, mostly driven by special sale pricing rather than function (so, 'want' vs. 'need'...). On the electrical side, for a while, the fuse in the harness of the K5 used to blow once every 18 months or so for no apparent reason, I've replaced one pressure switch at the compressor, and we lost locker function once on the '93 80 when the screw holding the power cable for the compressor at the Blue Sea fuse block absconded for no discernible reason. I carry some spare air line in the K5, and I have a little adapter so that I could use the Puma air compressor to actuate at least the rear locker. Looking back, when the guy at 4 Wheel parts in San Diego steered me towards the air locker back in 1998, it was among the best advice I got for 'wheeling & trail riding.

As far as we could determine, the ARB air lockers in the '72 FJ40 were installed in the first year ARB lockers became available in the US (late '80s), and they're still going strong. We've replaced some fuses and one solenoid, and the compressor is getting somewhat tired... So, overall, the ARBs in our trucks have served us very well, over many years, and countless trails.

 

[leonard_nemoy]

As for auto-lockers, I'm sure this can be one of the great Ih8mud debates. My personal opinion is that I prefer selectable. I've had friends go off the side of shelf roads in snow because the auto-locker engaged.

I love my Detroit autolocker in the rear except for a few rare times on slippery sidehill type stuff because it can pull the vehicle to the downhill side. My 91 had the Detroit installed when I purchased it and when the funds permit I plan on buying a rear axle from a newer 80 and rebuilding it and installing a selectable locker.

 

[Rivman1243]

Interesting. Didn't even know about the TJM.

 

[nukegoat]

the toyota front oem e locker is a win IMO. not as much of a fan of the rear design for several reasons.

I would also recommend a selectable locker for the front before the rear. Assuming you are running OEM suspension, the rear usually finds enough traction. The front, on the other hand, often lifts a tire with the dumb radius arms. Being able to lock the front intermittently will have more value in really rough stuff.

 

[nukegoat]

We've been using ARB air lockers since 1998, starting with my K5 Blazer (first configuration 10b/D60, 4.56, 35s; now D60/14b, 5:13, 37s), the '72 FJ40, and then the '93 80. I recall two structural failures: one on the K5 10-bolt front axle - broke a spider gear (the locker was the first-gen two-spider design; didn't stop me, discovered later...), actually at CruiseMoab on Golden Spike, accompanying my wife in the FJ40 and my Cruiser friends, and another one on the '93 80 - the copper line in the pumpkin broke at the junction to the seal housing, resulting in a loss of locker function. When I shattered a front axle shaft on the K5 (Moab/Pritchett), the locker - which of course was engaged at that time - didn't show any damage, and we replaced the axle shaft on the trail with a new one and continued.

I've managed to melt several air lines on the K5, usually after an exhaust reconfiguration where I didn't pay enough attention, and I had one compressor seal failure that I was able to repair on the trail (again Moab/Golden Spike) without much delay. Over time we've replaced the original compressors with mini compressors, mostly driven by special sale pricing rather than function (so, 'want' vs. 'need'...). On the electrical side, for a while, the fuse in the harness of the K5 used to blow once every 18 months or so for no apparent reason, I've replaced one pressure switch at the compressor, and we lost locker function once on the '93 80 when the screw holding the power cable for the compressor at the Blue Sea fuse block absconded for no discernible reason. I carry some spare air line in the K5, and I have a little adapter so that I could use the Puma air compressor to actuate at least the rear locker. Looking back, when the guy at 4 Wheel parts in San Diego steered me towards the air locker back in 1998, it was among the best advice I got for 'wheeling & trail riding.

As far as we could determine, the ARB air lockers in the '72 FJ40 were installed in the first year ARB lockers became available in the US (late '80s), and they're still going strong. We've replaced some fuses and one solenoid, and the compressor is getting somewhat tired... So, overall, the ARBs in our trucks have served us very well, over many years, and countless trails.

I run ARBs because I have to but I would much prefer the 4th gen eaton e lockers if they made them in the config I needed.

 

[ChaseTruck]

I run ARBs because I have to but I would much prefer the 4th gen eaton e lockers if they made them in the config I needed.

I started with ARBs because back then there weren't any other selectable options available - or at least I wasn't aware of any. So for me, the ARB falls into the 'tried-and-true' category, and I haven't set out to try anything different for that reason, and for the fact that time for 'wheeling has fallen short. I'll be happy to admit that the limitations to forward progress on the trail are usually not the air lockers - I'd say 80% of the limitation is driver (i.e. my...) ability and/or courage, 10% is mismatch between K5 body girth and trail width, and I blame the other 10% on undriveable nonsense like water and mud.

 

[landcrshr]

If I understand correctly, the front axle housing on the 80 needs to be clearanced in order to fit the ARB. Does anyone know if the Harrop has the same issue?

The ARB in the rear of my 80 works just fine, but I do have to purge the oil from the air line every time I use it. I added a quick-disconnect at the axle for this purpose.

 

[ajax1]

If I understand correctly, the front axle housing on the 80 needs to be clearanced in order to fit the ARB. Does anyone know if the Harrop has the same issue?

The ARB in the rear of my 80 works just fine, but I do have to purge the oil from the air line every time I use it. I added a quick-disconnect at the axle for this purpose.

Is your rear breather clogged?

 

[baldilocks]

Is your rear breather clogged?

This problem plagued me for a couple years. Actually, it was not a clogged breather. What I found is that the oem breathers hold enough pressure to force oil up to the blow off solenoids. I plumbed my axle vents to a single fuel filter in the engine bay and the problem seems to be solved.

 

[ajax1]

This problem plagued me for a couple years. Actually, it was not a clogged breather. What I found is that the oem breathers hold enough pressure to force oil up to the blow off solenoids. I plumbed my axle vents to a single fuel filter in the engine bay and the problem seems to be solved.

Yea I just pulled my breather and let vent to atmosphere, when I cross water or deep mud plug the tube back onto the axle.

 

[landcrshr]

Is your rear breather clogged?

Checked that. Blew it out, seems Ok.

 

[landcrshr]

This problem plagued me for a couple years. Actually, it was not a clogged breather. What I found is that the oem breathers hold enough pressure to force oil up to the blow off solenoids. I plumbed my axle vents to a single fuel filter in the engine bay and the problem seems to be solved.

Thanks, I'll try that. Been meaning to extend them anyway.

 

[KrOswalt]

Not a fan of auto lockers for on road driving.
If I had a offroad only rig it would be a good option, especially for the money. But as someone mentioned before, it’s everyday driving characteristics could cause some problems. I like ARB because of its instant “on/off” ability. Been on a few tight trails where having the rear locker on would push you out of the inside of a turn slightly (since you aren’t pivoting in an open diff) and cause a poor line. Quickly learned the convenience of being able to flip a switch on and off.
And as for elockers, not sure my driving style would suit the way the locker engages/disengages. If you were to roll backwards because you didn’t bump up a rock/obstacle and get some slack then hit the gas I could see some premature wear and tear going on there, but to each their own.
ARB has great tried and true products IMHO. Seems like all types of lockers have problems, guess you have to pick your poison

 

[KrOswalt]

How about a manual, cable actuated selectable locker?

If you find one for the 80 let me know, I looked everyone and as far as I know they don’t make them for a vehicle with a 3rd member style rear diff. Ox is a popular brand with a variety of options for popular differentials and they don’t have one for the 80. Needless to say I’m not getting my hopes up

 

[baldilocks]

The popular auto Lockers out there are all reliable units. I’ve run arb air lockers in three different rigs. I have dealt with some issues but those issues were external and probably my fault.

My current arbs are from 2010 and aside from an external problem here and there, they have worked flawlessly.

 

[ajax1]

Checked that. Blew it out, seems Ok.

Yea mine is not clogged either but creates to much pressure as @baldilocks stated, by just pulling the line no pressure will be created, or do as he did. You could also just pull the bleeder out of the line

 

[slow95z]

i have run factory e lockers in the past and they are great when they work... but omg when they dont work. the factory system is just too much to do a trail side repair on imo and i now run an auto locker in the rear and open front. wheeling here doesnt have much to do with rock crawling so i almost always have all 4 wheels on the ground.