aussie sub tank switch
- Thread starter matt49
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They both are.
The upper one is 91-94 and the lower one is 95-97.
The upper one is 91-94 and the lower one is 95-97.
- Thread starter
- #3
can u get the 91-94 switch, as i am getting a sub tank installed in the spring etc and like the 94 style switch better, and i have the 95-95, but apparently i need a 6pin switch instead of 5 pin
I got mine from mot.
Hu? your sig lists a '94 but you say you have a 95? The 91-94 switch is not work anywhere in a 95-97 dash.
I also got my switch new from mot. It was cheaper WITH shipping than the going aussie ebay price used and without shipping.
- Thread starter
- #6
sorry sorry sorry........ i have a 94 fzj80, i purchased a put together sub tank kit from swcruiser, as i am discovering from the above post from cdan, i have a 95-97 5pin subtank switch which apparently will still fit in the punchouts by the rear heater switch etc but i need a 6pin switch to work with george's ecu....the 5pin is allegedley from a diesel. what i was curious about was the apparent 91-94 switch and if i can get it in a 6 pin and who from
The big break in the switches seems to come in 1992.
Gas and diesel take the same part number.
84560-60010
84560-60020
84560-60030
Let me know which one you want, by year, and I can dig a little further for you.
Gas and diesel take the same part number.
84560-60010
84560-60020
84560-60030
Let me know which one you want, by year, and I can dig a little further for you.
I have an Australian 93 80 series which had a factory sub tank and it has the second pic type of button.
Frank
Frank
Or you can Jenny Cruiser if he has not sold his switch here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/sale-parts/263780-80-series-goodies.html
I happen to
rolleyes have both of them in stock. The one that I have that looks like the one in the 2nd pic is the one that has "7 pins".
I can't recall how many pins the other rectangular shaped switch has though!
PM me if you're interested!
Mot
P.S. Thanks Noel (for the earlier plug!) and PSFP!
Are the sub tank switches momentary? I got one from fleaBay and it doesn't lock in when presses like most other Toyota switches.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Yes-They don't lock. Push once to start pumping, it should shut off automatically if you are using the OEm parts or George's great sub tank controller.
I know, an old topic, but I have a question about the switches.
I installed a sub tank system. But not an original one. A tank from a Landcruiser 70, dual filler neck, a small pump to pump the diesel from the sub to the main when the main is empty. Aux and main are equally big. So easy setup. Now, I use a small rocker switch to start pumping. When the main is empty I push the rocker switch in the on position. When I see that the fuel gauge is full again, I put the rocker switch in the off position. Now, I wanted to buy an old style oem sub tank switch and wire it to my pump.
But I read that the switch is momentary. Can I use the switch?
I installed a sub tank system. But not an original one. A tank from a Landcruiser 70, dual filler neck, a small pump to pump the diesel from the sub to the main when the main is empty. Aux and main are equally big. So easy setup. Now, I use a small rocker switch to start pumping. When the main is empty I push the rocker switch in the on position. When I see that the fuel gauge is full again, I put the rocker switch in the off position. Now, I wanted to buy an old style oem sub tank switch and wire it to my pump.
But I read that the switch is momentary. Can I use the switch?
gofast
SILVER Star
Sorry Geert,
This doesn't address your question but you have solved something for me and I'm about to do my own subtank install.
I have 80 series filler neck and 80 series subtank but no pump. What did you use for a pump?
What fuel line did you use to transfer from tank to tank?
I plan on just using a rocker switch that fits a factory switch blank as well. Much easier to run an independent harness to this. I also have a universal fuel guage that reads the right resistance so I'll be able to tell when the sub is empty.
This doesn't address your question but you have solved something for me and I'm about to do my own subtank install.
I have 80 series filler neck and 80 series subtank but no pump. What did you use for a pump?
What fuel line did you use to transfer from tank to tank?
I plan on just using a rocker switch that fits a factory switch blank as well. Much easier to run an independent harness to this. I also have a universal fuel guage that reads the right resistance so I'll be able to tell when the sub is empty.
alia176
SILVER Star
George Scolaro has an excellent writeup on his website and he also sells the ECU for this system. IMHO, simply using this ECU is the way to go. It's very elegant, looks OEM and works beautifully. No need for a gauge, or a rocker switch. Unfortunately, the OEM transfer switch is quite spendy but it's worth it, I think. http://www.george4wd.taskled.com/
I've allready seen the write-up from George. But I think it's too complicated. Why would I need an ECU? Just another thing that can malfunction
Just a small pump and a rocker switch. It' just a normal fuel pump, 12v, with a small fuel line. It takes about 15-20 minutes to pump from the aux tank to the main. Only downside: you have to remember wether the aux tank is full or not
Just a small pump and a rocker switch. It' just a normal fuel pump, 12v, with a small fuel line. It takes about 15-20 minutes to pump from the aux tank to the main. Only downside: you have to remember wether the aux tank is full or not
alia176
SILVER Star
I've allready seen the write-up from George. But I think it's too complicated. Why would I need an ECU? Just another thing that can malfunction
Just a small pump and a rocker switch. It' just a normal fuel pump, 12v, with a small fuel line. It takes about 15-20 minutes to pump from the aux tank to the main. Only downside: you have to remember wether the aux tank is full or not
Complicated? Your gauge + rocker switch wiring will be more complicated than wiring up four wires (going from memory)from George's ECU: one wire to the pump and the little light on the OEM switch, one wire to +12vdc, one wire to GND and wire from the OEM subtank EMPTY signal.
Trust me on this, you won't remember to always turn off that pump manually while you're driving around.
If you have the capability to wire up a rocker switch, level gauge to the subtank sender, you certainly can wire up the simpler ECU.
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