Builds Atwalz 2013 TLC 200 Build Thread. (7 Viewers)

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4.88 nitro gears and arb lockers are done. Hunter’s 4x4 did this work. I am still trying to sort out the switch options. Breaking in new gears with 5 cool down cycles and then change gear oil at 500 miles.

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Eww... Jeep switches.

But nice gears and lockers. Welcome to the 4.88 group, it's good to have yeah! Keep it up as always.

Ordered an OEM dial type locker switch, switch panel and terminal kit from Kurt. That will make it clean install.
 
OEM locker switch wired! Compressor and rear locker kicks in at same time and then front locker.

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I swapped rear tourflex springs (2” lift) with OME2423 (5” lift). Still using icon shocks. I need to get extended version or redo lower shock mount. Plan is to level the panhard bar too. Also ordered rear KDSS extension kit from AU. I will be extending rear bump stop as well. Rig sits leveled now. Top of roof rack measuring 83” from ground.

 
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Moved lower shock mount 2” up and extended bump stops same distance.
 
Nicely done fabwork there. I think it'll hold up just fine. And then some.
 
Swapped rear kdss stock links with longer links to account for taller springs.

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Here is bds sway bar link. It’s mounted on outside of LCA using long bolt and a spacer provided in kit. I am probably going to remove some preload from Coilovers springs to lower ride height. They came preset at 2” with 1” preload. I might just do 1/4” preload.
@Atwalz Is this the BDD Sway Bar End Link kit you used: Tundra 2007-2020 Toyota 4wd & 2wd (w/4.5 - https://www.jackit.com/bds-128702.html Part # BDS 128702 ? Looks beefier than the OEM end links, plus the adjustability 👍 I am getting ready to go this route of mounting on outside of LCA. -chris
 
Been spending a lot of time contemplating a +-3" suspension lift and running 35"s vs the tundra bracket lift like you are now running.
Do you think the 35"s, or even 37"s, + bracket lift offer more ground clearance under the front skid than 35"s on a suspension lift would? Seems like an astronomical amount of work to run 37s on a bracket lift vs 35s on a normal lift if the end results is negligible.
Thanks! @Atwalz
 
Been spending a lot of time contemplating a +-3" suspension lift and running 35"s vs the tundra bracket lift like you are now running.
Do you think the 35"s, or even 37"s, + bracket lift offer more ground clearance under the front skid than 35"s on a suspension lift would? Seems like an astronomical amount of work to run 37s on a bracket lift vs 35s on a normal lift if the end results is negligible.
Thanks! @Atwalz
I see no issues with fitting 37s in front. Stuffing in the rear will rub with both 35s and 37s. A pair of bump stop extensions can work in the rear to address some of it. In front, 37s may need body mount chop. With 35s I don't need a body mount chop. I am at zero offset on 17s. In terms of ground clearance, a bigger tire size will provide more clearance. With the drop bracket lift, the whole frame goes up and I like CV angles and steering geometry. There is no going back once a rear cross member is cut.
 
Fabbed and welded the panhard bracket. This moves mounting location up by 3” on axle side.

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119k on the odometer. I swapped out front bearings.

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Also, replaced rear axle upper control arms. I had to weld a tab on the driver side for the abs bracket. OEM bushings were showing wear signs.
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Wondering what snapped while wheeling at Hollister on Sunday. Drove home with CDL engaged and speed less than 65. That is the spot where I heard a loud snap. I was triple locked going over this obstacle

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it was a side gear shaft. Had to remove both CV to push broken stub out. I thought it was CV axle first.

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119k on the odometer. I swapped out front bearings.

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Also, replaced rear axle upper control arms. I had to weld a tab on the driver side for the abs bracket. OEM bushings were showing wear signs.
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Were the front bearing you ordered pre-assembled with the hub? The ones I ordered weren't. Also curious if the part differs since you're running Tundra front end. I assume not?
 

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