ARB Snorkel Installation Questions (1 Viewer)

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COS80

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Hello. I received an ARB SS82R snorkel kit for Christmas, for my 1997 LX 450. The kit includes template p/n 375-017-450 and snorkel p/n 375-133-450. ARB USA confirmed the template is the right one, but they could not confirm it actually works... the template interferes with the radio antenna, and the snorkel looks like it might even hit the antenna (but it’s hard to be sure just by holding the snorkel up the fender). The instructions don’t say anything about removing the antenna for installation. I wondered if anyone could confirm the following:

  • Is the snorkel compatible with the factory Lexus antenna?
  • Should the antenna be removed for proper fitment of the template?
  • Does it matter that the p/n molded into the snorkel is missing the “R”, as indicated in the instructions?
  • Should the template be taped down to match the contours of the panel, not just lined up to the edges?

TIA

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Oz (ARB land) have the antenna on the US driver's side...

To fit the snorkel on a US vehicle (with antenna on US passenger side) you will need to use hot air to soften the plastic in the area where it would hit the antenna and make a groove. I used hot air and a pipe to push on the soft plastic. This depends on whether you have a new style or old style snorkel to install...

Write up for a couple of decades ago ->


I didn't trust the template - it was pretty close, but I did lots of measurements. Also didn't use the silly plastic things that come with the snorkel and instead used rivnuts. Be careful with the drilling in the A pillar - not much play room to not hit things you shouldn't. Use a step drill to provide a bit more control versus plunging a standard drill bit through...

cheers,
george.
 
This is a known issue. You need to used a heat gun to heat the snorkel and form it Slightly around the antenna. Also, that template us good for the main hole but it is way overboard on all the other holes. I completely painters taped the fender where the snorkel goes and used a paint pen on the little brass inserts of the snorkel to make exact locations so as to not have to drill such huge holes.
 
This is a known issue. You need to used a heat gun to heat the snorkel and form it Slightly around the antenna. Also, that template us good for the main hole but it is way overboard on all the other holes. I completely painters taped the fender where the snorkel goes and used a paint pen on the little brass inserts of the snorkel to make exact locations so as to not have to drill such huge holes.
I used the same technique to get the holes located correctly.
 
drill that biotch
fortune aids the daring
 
Installed my ebay snorkle this summer. I had it sitting in the garage for almost 10 years. I finally decided to go ahead and install it myself after I completed all the oil leak fixes ( valve cover, plug orings, front main, distributor oring, oil pump seal), new plugs, cap and rotor, water control valve and bypassing rear heater. I figured if I can do all that work without any help I could install the snorkle. The worst is you mess up and need a new fender. Im so glad I did all this work myself. The knowledge you gain from working on your own stuff is immeasurable.

I just watched a bunch of videos and took advice from each one. It wasn't hard. Once you get started it all makes sense and kind of falls into place. To my surprise it brings the air intake temps way down. When I was taking apart the air box parts I drove around with the fender parts removed and just the air box/filter pulling from the engine bay. Good lord the air intake temps were 140 at times. Now they are usually 10 degrees above ambient cruising down the road.
 
Remove the antenna or loosen it. Make sure that template is as close to ironed on to
fender as possible. Use painters tape below the template before you drill to reduce paint
splinters. Even a bit of warm air wouldn’t hurt. Once the template is on hold the snorkel
against the fender and tape it on over the template then see how it all lines up - and adjust.
like anything just take your time. Measure ( twice? Pffft, 5 times or more! ) Once you are
certain then remove the housing and drill.
on my 60 the wiper washer container needed to be removed so make sure the inside of the
fender and all the extra stuff around isn’t in the way. Much easier that way.
Good advice from the guy above about the A pillar. I personally don’t like rivnuts as I’ve had
a few loosen and spin, big pain in the ass. But I probably didn’t set them properly.
 
Looks great and goes well with the roof rack!
 
Some notes for posterity:

  1. You need to remove the antenna, the cruise control module (I think), and whatever the thing is with the heatsink to reach the two rear studs. The cruise module thing was the key - it has to be out of the way of your elbow to get your arm in the hole.
  2. I used a blue grease, in big, thick rings, to mark the position of each stud hole. I was really careful with my application of the template, and I had the antenna out of the way, so all were just barely off. I would've gotten away with just following the template, had I used 16mm holes (per the instructions).
  3. The template marked the spot for the big hole just fine. I did that first, marked the stud holes with grease, then drilled all the small ones.
  4. DO NOT use the hole saw from Harbor Freight. It says it's suitable for metal, but it isn't. It grabs and bites and kicks the drill like a mule.
  5. I had to heat the back side of the snorkel body with a heat gun and roll some clearance for the antenna bushing with the body of a Maglite. ARB USA should be ashamed of themselves for this.
  6. Since I marked my holes with the grease, I was able to get away with 12mm stud holes.
  7. You MUST apply grease to the stud washers (or whatever gunk you prefer) to paste them to the body. Even if you're super careful, they'll fall off, and if you don't have the fender blinkers, like I do, you'll never retrieve them. They're really high-quality stainless, thus non-magnetic.
  8. I tightened the two rearmost nuts first, and I put the antenna rubber bushing in place first.
  9. I got a rivnut gun and used M4 button head screws for the A-pillar bracket. 6mm holes required. It worked well and seems very secure.
  10. Be sure to start the two A-pillar bolts before tightening any fender nuts. Only after reinstalling the antenna did I discover that my alignment was off and I couldn't get the screws started. I loosened up all but the two rearmost nuts and knocked it into position with a rubber mallet, then retightened everything.
 
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Thank you to all who posted tips for me. I never could have done it without your help!
 

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