ARB Rear bumper question???? (1 Viewer)

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Hey guys,

I don't think anyone actually answered the original question.
"Does ARB make a standard rear bumper that will fit this or do I have to go with the more expensive ARB Modular rear bumper."
 
I have the same exact issue/occurance. Everything works except the flashers with the ARB installed. Not a big issue for me - but curious to figure out a fix if there is one besides changing bulbs to LEDs.

Alright it's starting to come back to me... I found the thread from when I went through this with the 80, yes that year is 2005 https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/44790-heavy-duty-flasher-upgrade.html and the solution was to upgrade to the EP36 flasher. The bigger problem (beyond hazards just not working) is the extra load actually fried the stock EP34 style flasher, leaving you without any turn signals at all short of rolling the window down and sticking your arm out.

So the quest is, figure out what the stock 100 series flasher is, then find out what flasher plugs into the same spot and upgrades the load. It may well be the same, I dunno I just got into this.
 
I have the same exact issue/occurance. Everything works except the flashers with the ARB installed. Not a big issue for me - but curious to figure out a fix if there is one besides changing bulbs to LEDs.

I swapped my stock tailight bulbs to the LED and left the ARB lights with the brighter bulbs on my personal bumper. My turn signals worked just fine but with the added 4 lights (2 front on the ARB bar and 2 on the rear bumper) the hazard flasher was overwhelmed.

So the quest is, figure out what the stock 100 series flasher is, then find out what flasher plugs into the same spot and upgrades the load. It may well be the same, I dunno I just got into this.

I was able to find an HD flasher that worked on a previous ARB rear install, I can't remember the specifics but it wasn't too difficult to track down or I would have remembered :D

I've wired them a few different ways too, on later 100's I'll replace the amber lenses with red, I wired mine (2000) with a true flashing amber and standard park/brake red.

Back to the OP: They make just one single bumper for the 100 (and any other) and you accessorize it as you want, left tire carrier, right tire carrier, both tire carriers, both cover panels, etc. Basically you have to choose something for each side to complete the install. There are a couple of part numbers for bumpers floating out there but they current bumper (5613210) superceds the older bar (5613010). The new bumper has some minor revisions and comes in the same standard semi-gloss black to match the front whereas the previous ones were grey. We were actually sending them out to get painted black so the change was beyond welcomed (and voiced ;)) here.

Pics of different install options:
Mike_Mcarthy_04_UZJ100 011.jpg
Ryan_Neilson (5) (Medium).jpg
389455_246053488794369_563640165_n.jpg
 
So the quest is, figure out what the stock 100 series flasher is, then find out what flasher plugs into the same spot and upgrades the load. It may well be the same, I dunno I just got into this.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/436355-flasher-relay-location.html

Here are pictures of early and later flashers for the 100. Plus we found out the superbrightleds flasher plugs right in. I've kept all the lights on the rear of my truck factory, but up front was upgraded to all LEDs after installing the flasher. Still flashes normally.
 
Thanks, Loud. But to be clear we're likely headed in the opposite direction here- the Superbright flasher is intended for lower resistance LED's, if you're going to LED-out your vehicle. In this case when adding extra incandescent bulbs it requires a higher rated flasher. The scavenger hunt for the actual flasher is helpful though... thanks man.

I already ordered some replacement LED's for the ARB rear, hoping they don't look too ricer and I can just call it good with new bulbs. If my hazards work again, I'll back up to the camper and test again...

The other memory that just came back from the 80 was popping probably 6 of those 7.5 amp turn signal fuses, even with the heavier duty flasher. I ended up just putting a 10amp fuse in there and that seemed to make that issue go away. :hillbilly:


edit: that white one above is pretty sweet looking... I dig the side bars too! :beer:
 
Instead of taking apart the dash to swap out a relay. I simply tapped into the (+) wires on the turn signals and added a AX-LR resistor. You can find them online quite easily and they work perfectly. I've gone LED turn signals front and rear and have no issues with these. If a LED dies, they actually support halogen bulbs, so you can always swap back and not have any issues.
 
one of the main reasons to switch to LEDs is for less electrical load...adding a resistor puts you right back at an incandescent bulb draw.
 
one of the main reasons to switch to LEDs is for less electrical load...adding a resistor puts you right back at an incandescent bulb draw.

Yes, exactly. And adding additional incandescent bulbs increases that draw, beyond the stock flasher resistance. Ok I think we get it now... I'm sure there are other LED threads with more flasher/resistor info.


Flip this back to ARB for a bit, here's some pics :grinpimp:
nak_arb_1.JPG
nak_arb_2.JPG
nak_arb_4.JPG
 
Yes, exactly. And adding additional incandescent bulbs increases that draw, beyond the stock flasher resistance. Ok I think we get it now... I'm sure there are other LED threads with more flasher/resistor info.


Flip this back to ARB for a bit, here's some pics :grinpimp:

I thought I had the only upside down ARB tag :) They did send me another one as well as a pair of red lenses.
IMG_1105.jpg
 
I thought I had the only upside down ARB tag :) They did send me another one as well as a pair of red lenses.

That's funny... must have been the same guy? I keep trying to rationalize that it must look right-side-up if you're in Australia, you know like how toilets run the other way and so forth. But the theory keeps coming up empty.. :rolleyes:
 
Ok I am back to normal turn signal operation, with hazards. I went with the 1156 3x1.3 bulbs for the turn signals http://www.superbrightleds.com/more...gle-intensity-3-x-13-watt-high-power-led/805/

timthumb.php


And the 1157 3x1.3 bulbs for the brake lights. http://www.superbrightleds.com/more...ual-intensity-3-x-13-watt-high-power-led/806/

timthumb.php


They are as bright or slightly brighter than the stock incandescent bulbs, but the lower power draw allows the flasher to operate the hazards again. More than likely, I'll put the same in my camper, as I suspect when I plug it in I'll get the same behavior. My only complaint is the bulbs are a little on the "cool white" side, meaning the lenses become lighter colored when illuminated, the worst is the turn signal looks a little yellow. Probably can only tell if comparing to a stock bulb right next to it.. but if they came in a warm white color it'd be a little better. I just didn't find one that gave me the confidence it'd be that bright, yet still be small enough to fit inside the lenses, so this is what I went with.

I also got some LED's for a reverse light mod I'm going to try to do in the reflector pockets.. you're going to have to tune in later for that one.
 
Those with the ARB rear bar and LX470, did you have to modify anything on the car to fit the bar?
 
Those with the ARB rear bar and LX470, did you have to modify anything on the car to fit the bar?

No, we have installed several on LX's, no mods to speak of.
 
Cheers.
I tried to get the spare wheel back under the car but when the weight of the tyre is on the chain, the winding thingy slips over the mechanism.
So time for a spare wheel carrrier.
 
Went in an ARB store nearby and asked about the ARB rear bar.
The person behind the counter asked me if I wanted to re-adjust the bar at a regular basis.
He said that many LC100s came back for re-adjustment as the bar has that many moving parts. If one panel isn't lined up correctly, you can't open the rear door as the swing arm can't move.
Anyone has these problems?
 

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