ARB Rear bumper question???? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter fxk142
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I was given the same caution but went for it anyway. There really aren't that many moving parts- the hinge is totally fixed, it's not going anywhere. Plus there's a cool little adjustment screw on the bottom to fine tweak the arm up and down... really neat feature. You've got a rubber stopper to adjust, and then the latch itself. What keeps it closed is the balance between the latch and the stopper... yeah it took me about an hour to get it all dialed in where I liked it, but 2000 cycles later it's still closing like it did that first day. ymmv 
They recommended Kaymar.
I liked the Kaymar I had on a first gen 4 runner (surf to you mates) it's fit and finish were nowhere near the ARB, although it was much easier to install. (4 runner vs 100 series though.)
The Kaymar is the fixed spindle style swingout, vs the arb bolt / bearing set.
I have never seen a Kaymar for a 100 installed. Pics?
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That's pretty sound advice... I ran a Kaymar on my 80 series for years and that latch mechanism is as simple, no nonsense, works every time, as it gets. Doesn't even really have an adjustment even, you just loop this big loop around a hook, push the lever closed, and it's shut. You adjust tension by adding/removing washers under the big rubber bumper. I think TJM is very similar, if they're still available over there?
It does have real bearings on the swing-out though, similar to most of the others that are being built over here.. not that they require a lot of maintenance. The ARB is more or less just a big bolt.
I had the Kaymar bar on my Nissan Pathfinder R51 with a wheel carrier and jerry can holder.
I like the ARB bar because of the opening/closing mechanism but it has to be solid as we have lots of corrugations over here.
TJM seems not to make the rear bar anymore.
And a 4Runner isn't quite the same as a Surf. My previous car was a Surf, which has a higher spec then the 4Runner. But don't tell the Toyota dealer this, as he will deny it.
I like the ARB bar because of the opening/closing mechanism but it has to be solid as we have lots of corrugations over here.
TJM seems not to make the rear bar anymore.
And a 4Runner isn't quite the same as a Surf. My previous car was a Surf, which has a higher spec then the 4Runner. But don't tell the Toyota dealer this, as he will deny it.
No issues with my ARB and I have some on customer vehicles we installed 5-6 years ago without any come-backs as well. Any adjustments they might need would be easily done in a few minutes but its my experience that you can get all those dialed before it leaves the shop.
Paul May ran a Kaymar on the back of his 100 for many years, it was later swapped in our shop for an ARB bar though I don't think it was so much a need to replace as a want to replace and a good deal from ARB. Perhaps you might get some feedback on both options from him, personally having installed both I think they are nice for their own reasons. The Kaymar from Paul's truck now resides on Dave Connor's 100 here locally.
Dave's Kaymar equipped 100, the first pic I could think of
Paul May ran a Kaymar on the back of his 100 for many years, it was later swapped in our shop for an ARB bar though I don't think it was so much a need to replace as a want to replace and a good deal from ARB. Perhaps you might get some feedback on both options from him, personally having installed both I think they are nice for their own reasons. The Kaymar from Paul's truck now resides on Dave Connor's 100 here locally.
Dave's Kaymar equipped 100, the first pic I could think of
Reviving this old thread. Does anyone have measurement or pictures of the arb rear bumper? I want to know how much it stick out in the rear. Is it the same length as the stock bumper?
Thread revival for different reason. I have a 100 with the ARB rear. Came with the tire swing out on the drivers side. I bought the jerry can swing out for the passenger side courtesy of @cruiseroutfit and team. Just now looking at it for install and I can't for the life of me see how to remove the horizontal cover plate where the new swing out would 'dock' in to. Looks like it is bolted and I can't get to the bolts. Don't see anything that addresses this in the instructions.
Most of the threads I see are people installing from scratch rather than adding on. Anyone been down this road? What am I missing?
Thanks for any help
Most of the threads I see are people installing from scratch rather than adding on. Anyone been down this road? What am I missing?
Thanks for any help
iirc, I think you have to remove the bumper off the vehicle to access and remove the cover plate.
I was really hoping that wasn't the answer ! But it does look that way to me also
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yes that is correct, I did this when I went from no swingout to jerry can holder and it's an all day affair.. if you can attach your receiver hitch to your floor jack somehow it makes it a little easier to muscle around, but the bolts you need to undo are accessed from behind the bumper. hardest ones are those big "nuts on a stick" inside the frame rails.
Greetings,
I did not want to start a new separate thread. I was thinking about getting front (bulls bar) and rear (with tire carrier and a ladder) ARB bumpers. My co-worker upgraded his 1999 LC with those bumpers and added touring arb roof top as well-it looks amazing, added tons of testerone to his rig haha . However, he did nothing with his shocks/suspension. Do I need to get beefier shocks/suspension if I'll go with ARB bumpers because I have no issues with my stock one as of right now.
I did not want to start a new separate thread. I was thinking about getting front (bulls bar) and rear (with tire carrier and a ladder) ARB bumpers. My co-worker upgraded his 1999 LC with those bumpers and added touring arb roof top as well-it looks amazing, added tons of testerone to his rig haha
. However, he did nothing with his shocks/suspension. Do I need to get beefier shocks/suspension if I'll go with ARB bumpers because I have no issues with my stock one as of right now.
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Upgrading the suspension has lots of benefits, and yes your truck would ride better if you did so. However IMO no, not necessary here- your truck will be a little lower with that added weight, but if you don't mind then whatevs just run it. You could measure the before/after then if you wanted to restore the ride height crank up the torsion bars in front and add a spacer above the springs in back, both cheap and DIY. You can always do a real lift later if you discover you want/need it.Greetings,
I did not want to start a new separate thread. I was thinking about getting front (bulls bar) and rear (with tire carrier and a ladder) ARB bumpers. My co-worker upgraded his 1999 LC with those bumpers and added touring arb roof top as well-it looks amazing, added tons of testerone to his rig haha
Greetings,
I did not want to start a new separate thread. I was thinking about getting front (bulls bar) and rear (with tire carrier and a ladder) ARB bumpers. My co-worker upgraded his 1999 LC with those bumpers and added touring arb roof top as well-it looks amazing, added tons of testerone to his rig haha
My favorite rear bar for a Land Cruiser. After a 10km ride I noticed the rear went lower approximately 1”. That’s because of the additional weight of the rear bar. The suspension on this LC was bare stock and same like yours it doesn’t have any problems with it so no real immediate reason why we had to.
Wow, ARBs just look amazing. I have been told to get slee rear bumper instead, but ARB just looks more robust-old school. My friend has tire carrier as well, so his rear went lower exactly 2". My stock distance is 6 1/2'' and his 4 1/2''. Also, I have heard ARBs are insurance rated for towing when slee and others are not.
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I know a lot of people who tow with a Slee bumper often without hesitation, they are extremely well made. I have experience with both- the Slee is more robust than the ARB hands down, easy example are the wings- Slee's are thicker and welded to the main bumper, whereas ARB is thinner and bolted on with M6 bolts. I dented a wing once backing into a rock, pretty sure the Slee would not have dented there. Slee is going to have a much better departure angle if that's a criteria for you... meaning you'll drag the ARB off ledges more, etc. The bigger decision factor for me are the latches, if you like the clamps & pins on the Slee vs. the slam lathes of the ARB... you'll be living with that choice daily. That and the overall appearance.... and Slee's also an ARB dealer so I bought mine from them that way everyone's still happy.
