ARB bull bar (1 Viewer)

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Chapin, South Carolina
Does anyone have pictures of mounting the factory recovery points with this unit? Directions didn't make sense and for the life of me I can't figure out how they just bolt back up without some sort of modification!
 
Bull bar slides onto the frame and then the bolts go through the factory recovery points, then through the bumper, then into the frame.
 
There should be a spacer in the kit to account for the lip of the bumper.

This may help:
Flickr
 
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I see the problem, my recovery points have a completely different bracket style! I've got an Hdj81....

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Well there your problem. :doh:

Drawing a blank on who, but someone here was making some nice beefy ones that bolt to the stock location, that should work with the ARB.
 
Never seen or dealt with an 81 unfortunately.

Duiser makes some heavy duty ones that should work with the bumper. Or find some used us recovery loops from a part out.
 
I have some factory US spec recovery loops. PM me if your interested.
 
So THATS what those extra holes are used for......not used on the US FJ/FZJ80s.
 
There should be a spacer in the kit to account for the lip of the bumper.

This may help:
Flickr
This could be slightly off-topic, but when I looked at ERG80's pics on flicker, just like I did many years ago, the ARB lights were spliced into the wiring using these red plastic splicers. They work great indoors but careful, outside the truck the tend to corrode easily, I had to change to waterproof splicers to save the OEM wiring and not to worry about ARB's signal lights not working !

ARBLights.jpg
 
This could be slightly off-topic, but when I looked at ERG80's pics on flicker, just like I did many years ago, the ARB lights were spliced into the wiring using these red plastic splicers. They work great indoors but careful, outside the truck the tend to corrode easily, I had to change to waterproof splicers to save the OEM wiring and not to worry about ARB's signal lights not working !

View attachment 1440086
Any pictures of what yours looks like with the waterproof splicers? Or links to parts you used to do it? May help for the some of the "poorly skilled amateur electricians-but want to learn" crowd.
 
Any pictures of what yours looks like with the waterproof splicers? Or links to parts you used to do it? May help for the some of the "poorly skilled amateur electricians-but want to learn" crowd.

Sure, no problem, perhaps I should have been a bit more accurate in my previous post. The red plastic splicer itself doesn't corrode, but the wire does where the "teeth" of the splicer cut into the insulation of the wire.
Types I've used before :
1) 3M Connector : Usually used for telephone wire splices, but could be used for thinner low voltage wires. Push the wires you need to splice through the holes and press the orange tab, they are silicon grease filled.
2) King Innovation : Dry Conn "Silicon Grease Filled" wire connectors. Just strip the wires to be connected, twist them together and then hand twist/screw them into the connector.
3) GB (Gardner Bender) Waterproof Butt Splices : These splices are double walled and once you crimp with the wires inside them, use a heat gun to shrink and melt the insulation material between their double walls. They will ooze a waterproof material that hardens quickly and keep the wires corrosion free.
4) King Innovation : 3 Port AlumiConn, used mostly for splicing Al & Cu wires but can be used for Cu/Cu wires, there is a bit of silicon grease in the small round port where you push the wire through for connection, then use a flat head screwdriver to tighten all the wires in the connector.
Hope that helps :)
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