Arb air locker – factory switch integration (1 Viewer)

[Rock_Wagon]

I recently finished integrating my ARB air locker into the factory switch and dash indicators, here is my write up....

The purpose of this project was to install ARB air lockers and have them integrated into the factory switch and dash indication. There are some other threads on this subject and I used that information to help get my start. Here is how I did it and maybe this information will help the next guy.

I started by researching the wire diagram for the factory locker system.



From that I created a diagram for replacement for the factory Diff Lock ECU.



I measured up the factory location of the ECU and determined that I could fit standard relays in exact same spot.



I created a cardboard template to build a metal plate to mount in the location.

I purchased dual relay sockets from Parts Express, these worked nicely to pair up the relay for the locker with the relay for the dash indicator light. The bolt studs for the factory ECU also line up very nicely with the relays fastening clip but the holes in the relay need to be widened to fit over the stud. I chose a relay with a metal clip so it would mount a little sturdier.
www.partsexpress.com
Relay P/N 330-079
Dual relay socket P/N 090-844

I made a metal plate from my template to mount the relays. The nut between the relays is attached to a stud I welded to the plate as a convenient grounding point.

Not all the wires on the relay sockets are used, I made sure to ohm everything out and match the wires to diagram correctly, the worst case scenario would be wiring it wrong and back feeding the dash cluster. Keep in mind the dash indicators are turned on when you ground them. While the solenoid for the lockers need +12v to turn on. The colors on the schematic do not match the socket wire colors but the output numbers should.

The board prior to installation

The board fits very nicely in the factory location and the location makes it easy to run the wires through the firewall. I used nylon insert nuts so that I don’t have to worry about them backing out

I attempted to find a plug that would fit the D5 gray connector for the factory ECU so that I could simply plug my ARB relay board into it but I did not have much luck with that so I ended up soldering the connections together.

I purchased the factory rotary switch and the indicator lights from CDan. The wiring from the switch is already in place from the factory and just needed to be plugged in. The D5 connector ties this switch to the ARB relay board. The dash cluster has to be pulled out to install the indicator lights for the front and rear locker. The bulb sockets have masking tape over them from the factory that is easily removed.

The air compressor was installed in the front right side of the engine compartment. I had already used some of the space where the Slee backet mounts in the left rear so I opted to create my own bracket and use the two existing body screw inserts to bolt into.

I welded a sturdy bracket to mount in the location and used loctite on the bolt threads when installing.

The ARB compressor comes with a wiring harness and I salvaged most of this on the compressor side. On the control side I made several changes to integrate it a little cleaner into the factory system.

I removed the Fuse that comes with the compressor and replaced it with a Blue Sea Systems 40A weather resistant circuit breaker that I mounted on the top of the firewall.

I ran my control wires from the ARB relay board to the solenoids and the control wire for the compressor through the existing boot in the fire wall. On the right hand side of the engine compartment.

The solenoid control wires from the ARB relay board where then soldered into the ARB compressor harness to the Yellow and the Dk Green wires.

The wire from the compressor harness for the compressor relay was not long enough to make it from the front right side of the truck all the way back to the left side of the dash so it needed to have a wire soldiered onto it so it could be extended. I purchased a Used Toyota switch with the plug and wires off Ebay for $5, there are lot of switches available that will fit in the 80 series dash holes but I waited till I could get one with the plug and wires attached. The switch just needed a 12v source that is fed off Ignition switched power.

The system works great and so far has presented no issues.

 

[Voivod]

Good job!

Thanks for the effort put into this writeup.

 

[Atoyot1031]

Nice work! I saw the bracket, but the rest of it really came together nicely.

Now yer ready for Holy Cross...

 

[CycloSteve]

Paradise by the Dashboard Lights

Personally I have been planning this mod from the day I bought my FZJ80.

Thanks to all who have gone here before, I was able to put mine together and come up with a simple solution. Sorry, no schematics for me, but hopefully a description and a few pictures which may help others in the future. My truck is a 96, so your wiring and socket pin-outs may differ, consult your EWD to be sure before frying anything in your truck.

1. Used the ARB solenoids and wired them to a factory "defroster" switch (from Cdan) as the isolation and compressor switch. Added a custom ARB compressor logo.

2. Then wired to the factory "magic"switch (also from Cdan) tapping into the output wires to trip each of the ARB solenoids. Radio Shack Quick Splice #64-037 made this a simple procedure. Swapped the factory "power in" to the interrupted power from the "defroster" switch to ensure that the switch is non-functional / has no power if the compressor is turned off.

3. Purchased from a local Pick-and-Pull the light sockets and bulbs for less than a buck. Removed the instrument cluster and plugged them into the two sockets which were taped over at the factory.

4. Purchased from a local Pick-and-Pull several different sockets from a Lexus 400 and a Toyota Camry on the lot...two of which fit with a few extra wires. Removed all of the unnecessary wires from the plug, and termintated with standard female spades pins 2, 6, 9, and 12.

5. Purchased from Radio Shack two 12v 40A SPST Automotive relays #275-001. I know it is overkill on the amperage, but they are cheap, are ready to bolt into position, use standard spades, and fit nicely in the kick-panel space.

6. Fabricated a simple "ground wire" with a single eyelet and four tails with more female spades to connect to the relays.

7. Connected the following to "Relay 1" for the Rear Locker/Lights:
a. Pin 12 from OEM plug to Terminal #85 on Relay 1
b. Pin 2 from OEM plug to Terminal #30
c. Ground wire to Terminal #86
d. Ground wire to Terminal #87

8. Connected the following to "Relay 2" for the Front Locker/Lights:
a. Pin 6 from OEM plug to Terminal #85 on Relay 2
b. Pin 9 from OEM plug to Terminal #30
c. Ground wire to Terminal #86
d. Ground wire to Terminal #87

9. Bolted the two relays to the factory studs for the OEM module, and ground to the grounding post. Two nyloc nuts from my local hardware store did the trick.

Pre-testing...before testing the relays and sending voltage to places which I did not want to, I made sure that simply grounding Pins 2 and 9 would light the dash lights. Then tested Pins 6 and 12 to also be sure that they were sending 12v to from the Magic switch. Once this was confirmed it was time to plug in my custom loom, and see if she worked.

The song which kept going through my head was Meatloaf's "Paradise by the Dashboard Lights". It worked perfectly.

Though my truck may have been without factory lockers, I am happy that she at least now has all of the right function with the ARB's and form with the dash lights.

Here are a few iPhone pics, sorry it was dark at the time and I was using my head-light to brighten things up a bit.

To anyone contemplating this DIY, just do it, it is a great mod! in my book if you have some basic electrical / electronics knowledge and are patient.

Compressor and Isolation Switch (Defrost)

Factory Magic Switch

My custom Locker ECU Replacement "loom" with factory plug

Loom and Relays in Place

Triple-Locked Paradise by the Dashboard Lights

 

[mot]

Wow, not that I didn't know this before, but stuff like this shows that we've got some serious talent(s) here on Mud!

Very cool!

 

[alia176]

Nice job!!! Do you recall, what car had the connector that plugged into the 80 grey plug on the right kicker panel? I like the idea of using one with a pig tail.

Thanks.

 

[CycloSteve]

Either an LS300 or LS400 (or maybe it was the Camry). Was combing through easily a dozen cars, and it was almost closing time. My normal mode there is to look for cars with the center console out, or kick panels, and start digging and clipping wires. I actually bought both sides of the plugs, as you can always use these piggies for other projects.

Basically my mod can be unplugged in minutes and swapped to another rig (and easily duplicated).

Have one extra which will work (white), sending PM.

 

[azTony]

I was looking to see if anyone has done this mod to a 93. I am comparing the EWD for my 93 to the posted LX450 and the schematics are identical (drawn differently, but identical) "EXCEPT" on the Diff Lock ECU connector on the LX450 pin 2 goes to the Rear and pin 9 goes to the front but on the 93 pin 2 goes to the front and pin 9 goes to the rear. They are reversed. Has anyone verified this on a 93? If not I guess I am going to be the first.

I will not be getting to this until probably next weekend but wanted to confirm with other 93 owners.
Tony

 

[azTony]

For the 93 owners...

Well digging through everything I came up with this schematic. WHat I found was the difference from the 93's and the 95 and newer vehicles was one simple pin swap on the locker ECU connector and those are the front and rear lights for the dash. Those 2 wires (pins 2 and 9) are swapped for the different years. Here is my schematic that uses the following parts:
ARB Compressor
ARB Isolation Switch
ARB Relay
ARB Pressure Switch
ARB Solenoids
Remote Mounted Air Manifold
Toyota "magic" switch
2 Radio Shack relays (YH185B 012-1H9)
Mating connector from a bone yard to mate to the Factory Locker ECU connector

What I was looking at was the posted LX450 FSM schematic shows the pins to the front going to pin 9 and the rear going to pin 2 of the factory connector "BUT" both CycloSteve and RockWagon have their schematics drawn with the front going to pin 2 and the rear going to pin 9. Now you two guys have me wondering.

 

[CycloSteve]

Tony,

If you have installed the lights in the dash, you can confirm which pin lights which lamp in the dash. Just ground them out one at a time (pins 2 and 9 on your pseudo-ECU). See #9, paragraph 2 of my post above. No power necessary (other than ign being on). The system essentially is providing the ground to the dash not +12v.



Steve

 

[PabloVTA]

that's killer.
you know it's gunna get asked, so I guess I'll be the first.

How much to build me one?

 

[azTony]

The only thing to "build" is the ECU Locker Emulator, the ARB harness that came with the compressor just needs to be separated into individual wires, route to your needs, cut to length and terminate. Mine was different from the other 2 shown because of the air manifold so I just wanted to make sure my wiring harness was going to be correct. Call me anal but I like to draw my schematics out before I start cutting wires.

Steve,
I was just trying to point out the differences in the 2 year vehicles and the discrepancy in the write ups both of you did. You show the factory manual but both your connections do not agree with the FSM pic you post. I am going to send ground up pins 2 and 9 to determine for sure before I put it back in the dash. Easy fix though just swap the wire on pin 30 of the 2 relays if they are backwards.

I have a lot I am going to do while I have the dash apart so this is going to take me a while. Soooo close to being locked....

 

[thisbugger]

I just finished my wiring on my front and rear arb, but the only difference is that my compressor is wired to the magic switch (rear). So everytime I turn on the switch the compressor turns on until it cuts out. It's almost dummy proof.

 

[ForealBoreal]

I just finished my wiring on my front and rear arb, but the only difference is that my compressor is wired to the magic switch (rear). So everytime I turn on the switch the compressor turns on until it cuts out. It's almost dummy proof.

good idea

 

[azTony]

HELP!!! I am under my dash searching for the connector that plugs into the elocker ECU and I can not find it. Mine is a 93 with no factory locks and I simply do not see the connector (should be gray) anywhere. You guys that have done this, did you have to unravel it from a harness or something?

Mine is different from the pics shown here and I have no idea where the factory elocker ECU is supposed to mount. Anybody got ideas? Anyone?

 

[alia176]

Tony,

I have a EWD from a '94 and attached is the picture of the Locker ECU location. Looks to be the same spot as the >'95 model years.

HTH.

 

[CycloSteve]

Factory ECU is in the PS kickpanel. Once off it is right there. On non locked fzj's only the harness plug is there.



Steve

 

[azTony]

Oh... on... THAT side...

I was looking in the DS!

Thanks for the quick reply guys!!

 

[azTony]

It has been a while since I got this done but the first time I got to lock em up and take a pic. Thanks to all for the documentation!

 

[97 40th]

It has been a while since I got this done but the first time I got to lock em up and take a pic. Thanks to all for the documentation!

Where did you get your white face gauges???