kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #61
Ok, the 9.5xp is finally in, so I figured I would finish off this thread.
I was able to sandwich the winch inside of the ARB so it is protected from the elements on 3 sides. Wouldn't do this if the winch was going to be used regularly but I sacrificed line visibility for weather protection.
I also moved the ARB 2 inches closer to the truck by chopping the mounts, filling the old mount holes, re-drilling and welding captive nuts into the frame rails.
Makes removing the bar a single socket job, very nice.
I cut and extended the winch clutch lever so that the winch could slide in the back of the bumper, the lever drop in from the top and get fastened with the little allen screw.
The solenoid box is moved up inside the engine compartment. It gets its power from a marine battery switch. It can run from either the first or second battery/alternator combo, or it can run from 1+2 so that both alternators can power the winch. (the 1+2 position is also the only time that the two charging systems are connected, so it is also the self jump setting)
Since the switch stays in the "off" position except when winching the cables that run to the winch have no power to them and no ability to short out in the event of a fender bender. This also means that you have to open the hood to send power to the winch, at which time I can hook up the remote to the solenoid box. I may end up running the cable from the remote through the firewall so it can just live on one of the kickpanels.
I hate how the roller failed sticks out so far, I moved the bumper back 2" and the fairlead puts it right back where it was. I also need to figure out where to put the license plate, and................I made a stupid mistake in my excitement, centered the winch and centered the fairlead so they are not centered on each other. I need to move the fairlead over and at the same time I think I may put a cast iron hawse fairlead on, I hear that they work with steel cable and it would be much lower profile.
I was able to sandwich the winch inside of the ARB so it is protected from the elements on 3 sides. Wouldn't do this if the winch was going to be used regularly but I sacrificed line visibility for weather protection.
I also moved the ARB 2 inches closer to the truck by chopping the mounts, filling the old mount holes, re-drilling and welding captive nuts into the frame rails.
Makes removing the bar a single socket job, very nice.
I cut and extended the winch clutch lever so that the winch could slide in the back of the bumper, the lever drop in from the top and get fastened with the little allen screw.
The solenoid box is moved up inside the engine compartment. It gets its power from a marine battery switch. It can run from either the first or second battery/alternator combo, or it can run from 1+2 so that both alternators can power the winch. (the 1+2 position is also the only time that the two charging systems are connected, so it is also the self jump setting)
Since the switch stays in the "off" position except when winching the cables that run to the winch have no power to them and no ability to short out in the event of a fender bender. This also means that you have to open the hood to send power to the winch, at which time I can hook up the remote to the solenoid box. I may end up running the cable from the remote through the firewall so it can just live on one of the kickpanels.
I hate how the roller failed sticks out so far, I moved the bumper back 2" and the fairlead puts it right back where it was. I also need to figure out where to put the license plate, and................I made a stupid mistake in my excitement, centered the winch and centered the fairlead so they are not centered on each other. I need to move the fairlead over and at the same time I think I may put a cast iron hawse fairlead on, I hear that they work with steel cable and it would be much lower profile.
. But I remember a recent thread of a guy picking up a Warn 18k winch, that thing is badass.
