Anyone with a 6.2/6.5 chevy diesel fj80 a few ???? (1 Viewer)

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I am using a 700R4 transmission. The overdrive ratio is .70, that with 33" tires should get me around 2000 rpm at 70 mph, right about in the sweetspot for the 6.2. My only concern is long upgrades on the highway but the 1FZE doesn't do well on those either. My last trip to Colorado on HWY 70 between Breckenridge and Denver I was down to around 45 mph on a couple of the passes, I don't think the 6.2 could possible be any worse. If it bothers me too much I consider the turbo but I live near sea level and very flat so it will only be on long trips where I will have a problem and that is not often enough to worry about.
I will you know soon.
Rusty
 
Do you have a stock 700r4 torque converter? I was running 35" tires with 4:10 gears and it was perfect. Really it was a great combination. Of course I was running the turbo, but, I think you'll find the power and speed at least as good as your 1FZE motor. I think you're dead on with the rpm you think you'll be running. I ran 2000 rpm with mine at 70 also.
Chas
 
I am not sure what torque converter I have. I am installing it now but it is not lining up with the holes on the flywheel. The guy I got the engine from said that could be a problem with the military 6.2's but I can't remember if he said I would need a different flywheel or converter? What converter are you using? The guy who rebuilt the trans for me supplied the converter, he built it for the diesel so I assume the converter will be the right one.
Rusty
 
I had one built by Continental Converters in L.A. The asked me question about power range, vehicle and such then built a gnarly one. I don't think there was a difference between military 6.2 and their tranny's and civilian models. Flexplates are cheap but find out if your engine is balanced at the harmonic balancer or internal or flexplate.
Chas
 
I have been trying to research the flexplate problem I am having to find out if I have the wrong torque converter. The only thing I have found is something about the heavy duty 6 pod torque converter. There was another post about the 11.5" bolt diameter for the hummer but it was very vague. All I can figure is that the military 6.2's must have used a torque converter with 6 bolts and a larger diameter. I have also read they are balanced. Anyway, I am now waiting on a 6.2 flexplate so I can get this thing installed this weekend. I have most of the wiring done so I should be able to put it in and plug in a few wires and see what happens, although I will have to wait for my wife to be gone before I hit the ignition because there is not an exhaust system on it!
Rusty
 
My converter was a 6 lug also. I thought it was the stock set-up. I've worked on 3 motors and all had the same set-up. The only difference was the HD models had no EGR and had a different intake manifold. Remember when "wiring" this truck there needs to be "accessory" power to the top plug on the injector pump. If you don't it wont start. If the power isn't switched from the ignition the truck wont turn off. Have fun,
Chas
 
So do you think maybe I have the wrong converter instead of the wrong flexplate?
 
I'd contact a tranny shop you trust and have them check it out. I don't know if the converters can be identified from the outside. My stock one that died was shaped much different from the one Continental built. Their design does not look stock at all. The engine side was rounded like stock but the tranny side was squarish like a Ford converter. I'd also go to the local GM dealer and look at a factory diesel flex plate. Mine definitely had 6 holes. Hope it helps.
Chas
 
I just bought a 6 bolt torque converter today and ordered a flexplate that should be here Monday. The new converter still does not fit the flexplate on the engine but their books say it fits a 6.2 with a 700R4. The flexplate I ordered is used off of a 6.2 so I am sure it will be the right one. Hopefully this will solve the problem, at least until the next one.
Rusty
 
Ok, I have run into a problem in my 6.2 swap into my 94 FZJ80. I thought I was about to wrap it up this week but when I went to install the engine tonight the drivers side exhaust manifold hits the frame, by alot. I would have to move the engine about 2" to get it to clear, or up about 6" to have room to attach the downpipe. I trial fit the engine without the manifolds and didn't think about them. The passenger side is perfect. The problem with the drivers side is it takes a turn outward and the passenger side continues straight back. I have a set of military headers that I took off because of clearance with the engine mounts, it looks like they do the same thing. What are the FJ60/62 conversions doing, or do the stock manifolds work? I am sure there must be a solution, I guess I will have to get with Marks in Australia and see what they do but it may be different on the RHD cars.
Any ideas would be appreciated, I guess I will start looking into headers.
Rusty
 
I hope I have answered my own question, after some research last night it appears there is more than one type of manifold for the 6.2's, I guess it may depend on the vehicle it is installed in. (that makes sense) I found a picture of one that looks like it will work so I guess it is off the salvage yard again to see if they have one!
Rusty
 
Rusty, have any pics?
 
The drivers side exhaust manifold can be cut off at the point it begins to turn toward the frame, ground down and rewelded to turn toward the engine. I ran into the same problem while installing a 6.5 diesel into my 93 fj80.
 
Spent 2 hours searching the salvage yard this afternoon. Most of the 6.2/6.5's had the same drivers side manifold as mine. I finally found an older 6.2 with a different manifold that turns down more (someone showed me a picture of it on another site so I knew it existed) Possibly they changed the manifold about the same time the went to the serpentine belt? I am going to install it tomorrow and will let you know, if it doesn't work I guess I will get out the welder!
Rusty
 
Dieselcruiser, tell me about your 6.5 conversion. Nice to know someone else has done one. I have alot of questions. What did you do about cruise control, tachometer, oil pressure guage and water temp. What transmission did you use? Lots more I am sure once I think about it a bit more!
Rusty
 
I started the conversion over a year ago and it has been drivable since last spring. It has taken me a while to work through some of the bugs (played too much golf instead of getting things done).

The 6.5 TD was from a 93 k2500. I install the 4L80E that was originally behind it and used an adapter (marks) to mate the HF2A to the 4L80E. I had to buy a stand alone computer to get the tranny working properly. The speedo, cruise control and air conditioning are not yet functional. The tranny computer has an output for the electronic speedo but I am still trying to get that to work. For the tach I bought a sweet little box from dakota digital that adjusts the alternator pulses/revolution down to the pulses/revolution the factory tach is looking for and it works well. I used the factory temp and oil sensors (had to buy adaptor fittings at the hardware store) so those gauges work fine. Volt gauge is an easy hook up and works fine as well.

If you decide to install a turbo you will need to modify the factory cast elbow from a 90 degree bend to around a 10 degree bend to clear the shock tower. With a turbo the 6.2 will perform almost identical to the 6.5 TD.

The 6.5 runs strong and seems to be a good fit. Pulls great compared to the 4.5 gasser, really enjoy driving it. I do believe you will be satisfied with your end product. Good Luck on your project.
 
I am suprised the speedometer isn't working, I thought it came from the transfer case as does the cruise control? I read another in another forum (can't remember where) that someone had done a conversion (can't remember the engine either) but they were using the 700R4 trans and the cruise worked without any modifications, I was hoping mine would as well. Do you still have the wiring hooked up to the transfer case? Does your CDL work? I have the Toyota oil pressure switch hooked up through a hardware store fitting. My Toyota temp sensor has a broken terminal on it so I think I am just going to wire the Chevy sensor and hope it works with the guage.
Would love to see some pictures if you have them
Rusty
 
You are correct on the speedo but I wanted to get it to work through the PCM tranny computer so I can adjust the speed based on tire sizing and gearing.

The cruise control should work once I get a longer cable to make it to the new throttle location. I used the GM a/c compressor and the a/c should work once I install two custom made hoses. I used the GM alternator to avoid making new brackets and putting a new pulley on the toyota alternator and used a GM vacuum pump to operate the brakes.

The transfer case wiring is hooked up and the diff lock works fine.

I will try to get some pictures posted at some point in the near future.
 
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