Anyone with a 6.2/6.5 chevy diesel fj80 a few ????
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Put 50lbs boost on a Toyota Diesel and see how long it lasts. It doesn't make it less of a diesel- as I'm sure all of us Toyota Diesel owners will insist.
No engine is going to go even a couple of hundred thousand without some parts needing replacement.
I'm not saying it's my favourite diesel and not my first choice for a conversion BUT it doesn't deserve the trashing given. My first hand experience says so...
No engine is going to go even a couple of hundred thousand without some parts needing replacement.
I'm not saying it's my favourite diesel and not my first choice for a conversion BUT it doesn't deserve the trashing given. My first hand experience says so...
Yes they do, it happens all the time.
Unless you're including oil and filters in your "replaced parts".
My brother owns a little perkins with an aftermarket turbo that has done 11,000hrs since it's last rebuild and still runs sweet. Convert that to km and see what you get.
I figure 60km/h average speed gives you 660,000km, if you figure an 80km/h average speed then you get 880,000km.
Good diesels run for a long long time, 10,000hrs is minimum for a well maintained one.
Well, I didn't expect to be taken so literally. I should have stated that I was referring to engines we use as our DD's. Not highway tractors, not gensets, not stationary diesels that run a constant RPM never exposed the rigors of traffic/road/commuting use. At 200k (miles or kms-take your pick) it's likely that SOMETHING will or SHOULD have been replaced. Injectors, certain gaskets, etc. Apples to apples, Dougal- apples to apples...
ANYWAY, my point was that while the 6.2 is not a fantastic engine it also doesn't deserve to be completely covered in a "crap" blanket. It is a reasonable choice based on cost and parts availablity.
ANYWAY, my point was that while the 6.2 is not a fantastic engine it also doesn't deserve to be completely covered in a "crap" blanket. It is a reasonable choice based on cost and parts availablity.
Injectors sure, many people get them serviced every 100,000km. But otherwise it's no problem. People who don't get them serviced probably pay a little more in fuel and produce a little more smoke.
Petrol car engines these days do 300,000km (200,000mi) without work. Diesels go further.
Even the old toyota diesels have ticked over 400,000km without work.
how so???? what kind of power is it at??? what kind of mileage is he getting??? why is it so bad??
I think I have decided that I am going to go with a 6.2 in my 80 conversion. I am not worried about the reliability of the engine, I am not sure what the problem is with the 6.5 stated above but as I stated in a previous post, the best thing about these engines is that they are about 25 years old now. There are some really good forums about them. Both engines had their problems. It is possible that bigluxs father swapped the engine without researching the fixes for the inherent problems associated with them, or just swapped in a used engine in which the problems were never addressed. I have decided on the 6.2 mainly because it gets better mileage and the maximum torque is around 2000 rpm as opposed to around 1800 for the 6.5. I have calculated that with 33" tires and a 700r4 trans it will run at about 2050 rpm at 70 mph, just about perfect for maximum efficiency. I am going to find a used engine and rebuild it with all the fixes for the known problems. I will feel more confident in my freshly rebuilt 6.2, freshly rebuilt 700r4 trans than I would in a 200,000 mile 1fz-fe, although I did drive my other 94 FZJ80 to 170,000 miles with only Rusty
94 FZJ80 waiting
94 FZJ80 waiting
When you do get around to getting a "true" diesel try putting 50 lbs of boost to it and get back to us how it works out
When you do get around to getting a "true" diesel try putting 50 lbs of boost to it and get back to us how it works out
Well.....not......really....50
but,
http://www.dragtimes.com/forums/lofiversion/index.php?t205.html
http://www.puredieselpower.com/catalog/high-tech-turbo-htb2-62mm-450525hp-dodge-cummins-p-329.html
http://www.tadiesel.com/dodge/newproduct5.htm
"were experienced and 51 pounds of turbo boost was developed on a 2002 ISB Cummins"
http://www.diesel-max.com/whatsnew/
"To get the most out of your Cummins for towing, drag racing or sled pulling, you can't beat twins. You get the advantages of fast spool-up from a small turbo with the incredible boost of a large turbo. To handle the boost form the turbos, ATS recommends the use of their head stud kit since boost pressures can top 70psi. ATS also makes a twin-turbo upgrade kit to fit your Cummins if you already have an Aurora 2000 turbo on your truck."
I have a 1995 suburban 2500 with the 6.5 turbo in it. I really like it. It's great for commuting, but if I were to be pulling a trailer routinely, I'd definately go with something different. I read an article that the Gm diesels (6.2 and 6.5) were designed to offer similar performance to a 350, but get better mileage. The common problems for the 6.5 are the electronic fuel pump getting to hot and cooking itself solved by moving the pump control module (PMD) out of the engine valley. Another common problem is that the heads are prone to cracking. This is fixed by newer heads with thicker castings and upgrading to a later model higher flow water pump. Addition of an intercooler absolutely helps keep the heads from cracking.
Look on Ebay. There are a ton of 6.5 diesels with 250,000 plus miles on them
check out www.dieselplace.com/forum for additional info.
Personally I wouldn't be afraid of one for commuting...my family uses it day in and day out.
Look on Ebay. There are a ton of 6.5 diesels with 250,000 plus miles on them
check out www.dieselplace.com/forum for additional info.
Personally I wouldn't be afraid of one for commuting...my family uses it day in and day out.
Well.....not......really....50
So you are trying to compare heavily modified engines that have head studs, fire rings, intake and exhaust modifications and aftermarket turbo(s) that can take 50+ pounds of boost to stock ones?
I got news for you, a new stock Cummins B is not going to take well to 50+ pounds of boost.
Not 50+, but take a look at www.4btswaps.com and you'll see plenty of bone stock cummins running boost that'll kill your average toyota or chev.
There are a couple of guys running around 90psi, but they're heavily modified engines.
You'll be fine with a 6.2. As long as you don't mind the slow acceleration. I always tell people to drive a 6.2 powered Subutrban or pickup before buying a 6.2, because not everyone is satisfied with the acceleration. I have driven old school Toyota diesels, so I think the acceleration is ok. But it will be quite a bit less than your gasser engine.
It is good you are putting an overdrive behind it. It means the difference between liking and hating this engine. You can turn the inj pump output up on them and get a little performance gain. MPG will go down a little bit, but slight bit of extra acceleration is worth it. From my experience expect 15MPG city, 18 MPG hwy.
Maybe you'll get lucky and find a good running used engine. My couple experiences with them, I've taken used 6.2's with unknown mileage, slapped new gaskets on and ran them trouble free for many more miles.
Myself, if the cost of buying and rebuilding a 6.2 got high, I would go Cummins if the cost got close.
If rebuilding, do searches & researches on GM bulletin boards before buying after market pistons. There is a respectable piston manufacturer that normally I wouldn't question, but their 6.2 pistons are junk. I can't remember the brand.
You got the right idea in having the tranny rebuilt. Early 700R4's didn't like being behind the 6.2. Hopefully you can find an 88 or neweer 700R4 core.
Best of luck Keep us posted.
Are you referring to the 6.2 in your 60 series? As far as acceleration I would expect it to be maybe similar to my old FJ62? Is this a fair comparison? It never really bothered me, in fact that was one of my favorite cars, another one I shouldn't have sold! I was hoping for slightly better mileage than 15-18 but even that is better than stock. What trans are you using? What is your cruising rpm in which you are getting 18mpg? Financially it wouldn't make since to spend all the money doing this for only a 3-4 mpg increase, but I have a blown engine and they are quite expensive to rebuild. Going the swap is probably not going to be much more expensive (if any) than rebuilding, plus I would like to go the veggie route, how is that working for you?
Yes, I would say it's a fair comparison. A stock 6.2 compares to a stock smogged 60, or a 6.2 with the inj pump tweaked up would compare to an FJ62, so it's not that slow.
I'm using an NV4500 5speed. It's 27% OD is similar to the 700R4. Turning 2100 RPM's at 70 MPH with 33's. Exactly what you calculated.
I didn't think the mileage was that bad. Compares to the 17 -19 MPG I get with my HJ60 but with more power, and considerably better MPG than the 12 - 14 MPG I get with my FJ60 gasser.
Veggie is working great right now that I have a good source of WVO. I have gone through three inj pumps in 3 1/2 years. This is the ONLY maintenance I have done to the engine in 3.5 years. I attribute the inj pump failures to running veggie. the Stanadyne pumps aren't the best for running veggie, but not the absolute worst either. The key to success is a good veggie source. If I was starting out over again, I would lean toward brewing my own biodiesel. It would probably eliminate the pump failures and increase the flexibility of restaurants I got WVO from. Wouldn't have to be so damn picky.
I'm using an NV4500 5speed. It's 27% OD is similar to the 700R4. Turning 2100 RPM's at 70 MPH with 33's. Exactly what you calculated.
I didn't think the mileage was that bad. Compares to the 17 -19 MPG I get with my HJ60 but with more power, and considerably better MPG than the 12 - 14 MPG I get with my FJ60 gasser.
Veggie is working great right now that I have a good source of WVO. I have gone through three inj pumps in 3 1/2 years. This is the ONLY maintenance I have done to the engine in 3.5 years. I attribute the inj pump failures to running veggie. the Stanadyne pumps aren't the best for running veggie, but not the absolute worst either. The key to success is a good veggie source. If I was starting out over again, I would lean toward brewing my own biodiesel. It would probably eliminate the pump failures and increase the flexibility of restaurants I got WVO from. Wouldn't have to be so damn picky.
