Anyone with a 6.2/6.5 chevy diesel fj80 a few ????

[ChuckB]

True-dat!


I DO have a problem with this statement though!


1: The 6.2.5 (whatever) in sivi Hummer sucks!!!

Ok... so why does it suck? Please enlighten us? I have researched the known issues as I dicussed in my previous post. Try

http://www.thedieselpage.com

People who installed these motors have posted on this thread and they don't think they "suck"? Is it the best diesel engine ever built, probably not? But it is a good candidate for an economical engine swap.

2: Why? Because they don't all ride around knowing that we have a full service all expense paid motor pool back at the house in case they break something, thats not a very good reason to say why you think its a good motor.

I am fully aware that miltary vehicles have an extensive supply support network. If you read my post again I never said that it was a good engine, I said my experience is limited to the military version.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rtarh2o
I have done alot of research on this engine and I don't believe everything I read but I do believe that these engines can be built to be very reliable for many miles. As I said in another post, the great thing about this engine is that it is 25 years old, the bugs have all been worked out. Supply and demand is great in my opinion, that is why I am going this route, I would really prefer a toyota diesel but they are basically impossible to get and parts are the same story. I can go to most any auto supply and get anything I need for the Chevy diesel, and it is inexpensive. Is that a problem? I think I can get around 20 mpg with the 6.2 and if the converted Chevy 2500 truck I drove is any indication of the way it will perform I will be very happy. I will have about $4,500 total in the conversion and everything will be freshly rebuilt and reliable (I hope)
I hope I am right and you are wrong but if you have any real knowledge about problems with this engine please let me know. I going ahead with the conversion and will let you know how it works out.
Rusty

True-dat!

Unless you are being facetious, you appear to have agreed with this post and then contradicted yourself by flaming me. I merely stated in different words the above post.


I am not looking to start a web-brawl. Your opinion is your opinion, and you are entitled to it. But, how about posting some factual information regarding these engines??

 

[rtarh2o]

I owned 3 Suburban's before I got the Land Cruiser bug (or until the 80's got cheap enough) anyway, they were all very reliable, in fact the only thing I ever replaced on any of them was an AC compressor and a radiator (only thing I have ever replaced on my Land Cruiser's as well) I think American companies know how to build trucks and V-8's. The build quality is not nearly as good but as far as reliability goes the engines themselves are solid. I really don't anticipate having any engine problems as long as I maintain it properly, as with any car. Would I buy a Suburban diesel, probably not again but mainly just for the little annoyances like rattles, door handles breaking etc, not because of reliability.
I hope I can be the first to say to tntoyota that he is wrong and that the 6.2 is a great, reliable engine for the FZJ80, but if I am wrong I will be sure to post that as well and ask him what he would suggest, then have him find it and finance it for me. The way I am doing it at least I won't end up with a $20,000 94 land cruiser.
Rusty

 

[bigluxs]

FJ62 6.5L Deisel chev

FJ62 6.5L Deisel chev
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=itHa22ivrOg

 

[rtarh2o]

Is that your FJ62? If so let me know how you like it, I am picking up my engine next week, can't wait to get it to the point of yours.
Rusty

 

[bigluxs]

Is that your FJ62? If so let me know how you like it, I am picking up my engine next week, can't wait to get it to the point of yours.
Rusty

that is my old mans FJ62.

it goes ok can get little rice burners of the mark at the christmas tree but i would not put one in my 60 unless it was turbo

nat

 

[rtarh2o]

I think there was alot of difference between the early years and the later years in the 6.2's as far as power is concerned. I have read that the early models were rated around 130 HP, I think the military models (like the one I am considering) are more around 160 HP. If it just has equal power to my 1FZE I will be happy but I really think it will feel like more, hope I am right, if not I will find a turbo to add.
Rusty

 

[ChuckB]

http://store.bankspower.com/Categories.aspx?Category=6dc46e49-ee21-49e7-855b-71f165af79cf

http://store.bankspower.com/Categories.aspx?Category=f3671077-2b55-40a9-86c8-120e3e2c3241

 

[rtarh2o]

OK, I finally have my engine, (military take out 6.2) transmission (rebuilt 700r4) and transfer case adapter. I am ready to get serious! I have a couple questions now;
Air conditioning - I am thinking it will be easier to make a bracket for the 6.2 block and use the Toyota system instead of trying to make the GM compressor work with the rest of the Toyota system. Am I thinking correct. If so any ideas on the bracket and alignment?
Power steering - GM used a vacuum pump that ran off of belt, I could use that pump and run it to my booster, or install a hydroboost system? Ideas?
Cruise control - Anyone know how the cruise control worked on the 94's? I am guessing they are electronic and would be a wiring nightmare to make it work with the diesel. I have seen kits for cruise control that use a speed sensor on the driveshaft. Has anyone used these, and is it possible to use my cruise control stalk?
Transmission linkage - Is it going to be possible to keep my land cruiser shifter looking stock and link it to the 700r4?
I am sure there will be many more questions. I will post pictures as soon as I start making progress.
Rusty

 

[FL cruiser]

The easiest choice would be a GM A/C compressor with the Toyota A/C system. It’s a bolt in operation.
Have you got engine accy brackets yet or figured which ones you want?
If you’re going V pulley, the best A/C compressor ever made was the old GM A6 compressor, but it is big, heavy and bulky. The R4 is good to average, and the Delphi has a reputation of being not so good. I found the Toyota Compressor, at least the one used during the 80’s wasn’t going to be a good fit. I ended up with a Delphi because the compressor and brackets were a $25 deal. So far it’s worked fine.

The best choice would be a Sanden 5** series. The most reliable, common standard modern A/C compressor. They are cheap too. Under $200 brand new. You have many choices on hose port configurations. If you get the flare fittings, you can buy hose ends and make your own lines and save a $100 over having custom hoses made. I will go with a Sanden when my compressor craps out. GM brackets will dimensionally put the Sanden where it will line up with the 6.2’s pulleys. You just have to drill new holes for the Sandens’ bolt pattern and weld an extra tab on a bracket so you can use three bolts instead of two. For the front compressor bracket use the GM 82 to 86 A6 or Delphi. For the rear compressor bracket use the 85 to 86 Delphi. The Delphi was a short lived shorter compact aluminum replacement to the A6 used in years 85 to 86. So happens the Sanden measures the same length and pulleys are in the same place.

If you are lucky enough to find a GM serpentine setup, the R4 is the logical choice. Even with it being and average compressor, it’s better running an R4 with a serpentine than any of the choices above.

Hydroboost all the way!

Remember to change out the solenoid in the military IP pump with a 12V one. Glow plugs to 12V too.

 

[rtarh2o]

Thanks for the information, I guess it wouldn't be that hard to make hoses if that is all that is involved. What about the wiring? I've never done much with the AC so I really don't have a clue but I am sure I will figure it out once I get into it.
You said hydroboost is the way to go, what system did you use? Did you use your Toyota master with the hydroboost or something else? Again, brake line fittings are universal I think so will any master cylinder work (obviously one for a similar size and weight car)?
Thanks for all the help, I won't be working on it until next week but will post some pictures soon.
Rusty

 

[FL cruiser]

the wire that went to the original compressor and hook it up the the new one. If the new compressor has two terminals, one gets grounded.
GM compressors have manifold blocks on the hose ends for the compressor. many times the hoses don't point the direction you want and require some kind of fabrication. Flares are nice. The ends are cheap, can get them straight or in 90, 45 & 37 degree angles and can point them any direction you like and hose slips ove a barb end can clamp it with a hose clamp.
Hydroboost proovides a little better braking power, so there's some advantage, but If you already have the vacuum pump, I would use it. Used hydroboosts are fairly cheap at the junkyard. You find them on vans and mid 80's GM station wagons.

I used a GM truck master because it's what I had and was a bolt on to the hydroboost. You can go with a bigger bore master with a hydroboost. Up to an 1 1/8"

 

[rtarh2o]

Sounds like you are the guy to talk to, now if you can just solve my tachometer and cruise control issues! I have found aftermarkets for both. The tach has a digital display (on an earlier post, I think it will work) and the cruise control uses a generic switch mounted on the dash. Both I could probably get used to but it would be really nice if I could keep the factory tach and cruise control stalk. Any ideas?
Also the engine is set up right now using pulleys and seperate belts, but I like the simplicity and looks of the serpentine belt (had one on my last suburban, don't have to worry about the belt in the back breaking!) Any preference, it is mainly just a matter of a new water pump.
Thanks
Rusty

 

[rtarh2o]

I just noticed you are running on VO on your 6.2, how is that working? I am wanting to go that route and am building a centrifuge WVO cleaner right now. I am planning on a 70/30 (wvo/diesel) mix with heated fuel lines and filter. What system are you using?
Rusty

 

[Dougal]

Sounds like you are the guy to talk to, now if you can just solve my tachometer and cruise control issues!

There are many tachos out there that work of the alternator pulses. Some alternators have a feed wire just for it, otherwise soldering in a wire and diode before the rectifier will give you the 7v ripple (that's on a 12v alternator).
I made my own frequency-voltage converter using an off the shelf chip, but out of the box solutions do exist.

 

[FL cruiser]

I’m using the factory tach. Since I’m using Hydroboost brakes and don’t need the vacuum pump, I used the 6.2’s vacuum pump housing, the kind that resembles a distributor that goes in at the back of the engine, pulled off the vacuum pump, opened the top and inserted the electronics from the Toyota distributor. Wired it like the factory ignition system up to the amplifier that was attached to the coil. At first it wouldn’t work. Attached the coil and it works fine. I don’t understand why the coil had to be attached, but now have an unwanted spark source sparking away, but the tach works. Guess I could use the ign wire for pranks and to shock people, but for now grounded it so it won’t cause radio noise.

I just noticed you are running on VO on your 6.2, how is that working? I am wanting to go that route and am building a centrifuge WVO cleaner right now. I am planning on a 70/30 (wvo/diesel) mix with heated fuel lines and filter. What system are you using?

I run a two tank system. Right now everything is working fine. I’m mixing 30/70 WVO to diesel in the diesel tank during summer months.
So you’re going to run a 70/30 mix with a single tank? It’s been done before, but it’s not for the faint of heart

 

[Chas Stricker]

Howdy, I just got informed of this thread and thought I'd chime in. I built a FJ55 with a 6.2 that I put a Banks sidewinder turbo on and loved it. It had tons of power and got fair mileage. It was really tired as I found out later. The built 700R4 really worked well. The twin cases let it crawl off ledges without brakes also. I miss it.
Chas

 

[rtarh2o]

I am getting ready to finally install my 6.2 in my 94 FZJ80 over the holidays, can't wait. Not planning on the turbo right now but it is a possibility in the future, doesn't sound like too hard of an install. Good to hear others have had success with the 6.2.
Rusty

 

[Chas Stricker]

Rusty where are you located? I've been talking to a buddy about putting in a 6.2 in a troop carrier he wants. I think a non-turbo would be enough but it will smoke under power and you wont be able to pull the front tires off the ground.
Chas

 

[rtarh2o]

I am in Texarkana, Texas, border of Texas and Arkansas. Where are you? I have a military take out 6.2 probably the most powerful of the non turbo 6.2's. There is alot of variation in the power of these engines, there were about 6 different heads they used over the years, each one getting more power and less economy. I think the military heads were probably the most recent most powerful heads. I think it should be somewhere around 160-170 HP. I read that you can add about 30% to a diesel HP rating to compare it to a gas engine which would put around 200 HP. When I bought the engine the guy selling them had one installed in a Chevy 2500 4X4 truck, probably about the same weight as the FZJ80. I drove his truck down the street a few blocks and it felt much stronger than my FZJ80 ever did. Hopefully I will find out in the next few weeks!
Love to show it to you if you are nearby.
Rusty

 

[Chas Stricker]

Rusty, I'm in Reno, Nevada. I think the 6.2 will feel stronger because of the low rpm high torque. It will run out of steam because of the redline. Are you planning on an overdrive of taller tires?
Chas