Anyone found an alternate front crank seal? (1 Viewer)

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Has anyone found a different toyota front crank seal for the 1FZ engine? I'm getting ready to try and fix all the leaks on the front of the engine. On the 22re there was a different crank seal between the truck/4runner and celica. the celica seal is shorter so the seal lip rides on a different spot on the balancer, avoiding the grove. Has anyone tried spacing the crank seal out a couple MM to avoid the grove? I used a piston ring to space the rear seal out on a 22re and it worked.
 

brockdeck

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Everything you need for your front end oil leaks, at a reasonable price. Do it properly, or you will regret it. While you are in there, get your oil pump cover seal done and replace the old hardware.

Edit: Just realized the kit from @NLXTACY is out of stock, but these are the things you will want to have.

Great resource for this whole job is @OTRAMM on YouTube. Priceless advice.
 
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There are lots of Mud users (including me) who have replaced the front crank seal with the part number specified by Toyota, and have no leaks afterward. I think you're overthinking it, the original seal is what you want to use.
 
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It is not the factory seal I’m worried about, I want to use a factory I seal, I was just wondering if anyone had found another Toyota seal with the same ID and OD but different thicknesses so the seal lip would ride on a different spot. Seals always leave a grove causing the new seal not to last as long, like on the 22re, two different seals for the same motor but they ride at different spots, so when you replace the seal you use the other one and it has a fresh surface to ride on

I have ordered everything I think I need

valve cover gasket
6 plug grommets
Oil pump gasket
Oil sender o ring
Thermostat
Thermostat oring
3 bypass orings
Distributor oring
7 coolant lines
PCV grommet
PVC vent line
front main seal
The other valve cover vent line
Water pump

I ordered everything from Toyota
 
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Olathe, KS, USA
Yeah, I was trying to avoid that, I haven’t pulled it yet to see how bad the grove is
You can also do a Speedi-Sleeve over the shaft of your current HB to get a "new" seal surface if it is a serious problem. Those have their own inherent problems.

I have not seen this as an issue across most of the 80 series units as a complaint on the front main seal. inside the front axle seal on the axle shaft, yes.
 
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You can also do a Speedi-Sleeve over the shaft of your current HB to get a "new" seal surface if it is a serious problem. Those have their own inherent problems.

I have not seen this as an issue across most of the 80 series units as a complaint on the front main seal. inside the front axle seal on the axle shaft, yes.
I tried a speedy one time and didn’t like the way it looked so I tore it off right after I put it on. Hopefully I’m over thinking it and the groove won’t be bad. My wife has been driving it for about 15 years and other than general maintenance I’ve never tinkered with it. Every 22re or 2F I’ve tore down has had a pretty bad groove.
 
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I tried a speedy one time and didn’t like the way it looked so I tore it off right after I put it on. Hopefully I’m over thinking it and the groove won’t be bad. My wife has been driving it for about 15 years and other than general maintenance I’ve never tinkered with it. Every 22re or 2F I’ve tore down has had a pretty bad groove.
I did mine at 215K and it had no groove to be worried about. I used a new Toyota seal and I now have 316K on it and still no leaks from it if that means anything. The PO's on my truck did NOT do regular PM. I bought it in very rough mechanical shape.
 
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I did mine at 215K and it had no groove to be worried about. I used a new Toyota seal and I now have 316K on it and still no leaks from it if that means anything. The PO's on my truck did NOT do regular PM. I bought it in very rough mechanical shape.
Is this the bypass where the 3 orings go? Do I remove the thermostat housing and the vertical pipe to the head?

B54A312C-1EC9-4C77-A234-27E2D67419F1.jpeg
 
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Is this the bypass where the 3 orings go? Do I remove the thermostat housing and the vertical pipe to the head?

View attachment 2651914
The 3 O-rings go on the part behind the vertical pipe. You do not need to remove the t-stat housing or the vertical pipe to do that bypass piece. However, many have found that it is very corroded inside there and THAT forced them to remove the other parts for access to pull them out.

1619028308157.png
 

alia176

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Just out of curiosity, should we replace the harmonic balancer as a matter of PM after 25+ years of service? I'd imagine that rubber to be unhappy by now.
 
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Just out of curiosity, should we replace the harmonic balancer as a matter of PM after 25+ years of service? I'd imagine that rubber to be unhappy by now.
There's another thread here that has beat that to death, but it still comes down to whether or not the rubber in your has deteriorated due to oil soaking or dry rotting. Mine seems to be fine at 314K miles FWIW. Others have replaced theirs already.
 

flintknapper

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I tried a speedy one time and didn’t like the way it looked so I tore it off right after I put it on. Hopefully I’m over thinking it and the groove won’t be bad. My wife has been driving it for about 15 years and other than general maintenance I’ve never tinkered with it. Every 22re or 2F I’ve tore down has had a pretty bad groove.

Pulled mine for the first time at 316K and found no significant groove. Mine is not leaking after reinstalling with the OEM seal.
 

leonard_nemoy

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Remember your dealing with a landcruiser, not a "regular" Toyota. People think there mini trucks, 4-runners, and tacomas are reliable. Well guess what, they ain't got nothin on Mr T's flagship vehicle. Cruisers have always been the most reliable rigs built by Mr. T.....
and the most gutless:rofl:

This here is a great example of cruiser reliability. These super tough seal groove resistant harmonic balancers almost cancel out the head gaskets.
 

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