Anyone ever transplant the dashboard of a 40? (1 Viewer)

[JustJay]

So, I'm trying to transplant the dash on my 40 that has been butchered (beige one in photos) with an original untouched (green in photos) of the same year (72). The current dash was hacked at with a radio install, holes drilled, etc. and I was originally planning to attempt to weld & modify it back to its original state. Then, I happened upon an original dash setup that hadn't been altered and was talking with Drake and figured it'd be easier and a better finished product to transplant.

I successfully cut apart the weld on both ends of the replacement dash. Also, released the tack welds that hold the glove box on but now I'm stuck. The last step seems to be to lift the dash assembly up to release it from where it is curled over the rest of the cowl. I got the first several inches of both ends of the dash to start to come loose and thought I was making good progress but then progress stopped. At first I thought it was just stuck from all the years of rust & junk accumulated under that curl. But, it occurs to me as I'm looking that maybe there are tack welds all the way across.? Man, I hope not. Anyone ever tackle what I'm attempting? See photos. Any advice?

 

[Tank5]

I remove the dash on a 65 40 before and it had a spot welds all the way across the top where it was curled over top of the cowl. Sorry yours looks like it has the same spot welds.

 

[Living in the Past]

If the green cowl is good would replace the whole cowl, a lot less work.

 

[JustJay]

Thanks for chiming in. Can't tell from the pics but the green cowl isn't worth salvaging in my opinion. I guess next step is to drill the spot welds out, pull the dash & once its re-installed, weld and fill the holes.

 

[Living in the Past]

I am in the same boat. My 73 a PO just loved adding anything he could think of. I have another 73 dash that only has a fee small non OEM holes. I also have hole in the firewall for where A/C lines were. Have a few 78 cowls but those do not have the cowl vent in the center. It is interesting everything he did to the dash the radio opening is untouched. Even had the blank plate.

Will be curious how this works out for you.

 

[CondeCruiser]

It's spot welded to the cowl and then curls over. Easiest thing to do is cut the top section of the cowl out to get access th the dash welds. They are a PITA. the spot welds you have cicled are just holding the dash pad bracket on.

 

[Engineer8000]

I used a spot weld cutter, was not that bad.

 

[Living in the Past]

My

I used a spot weld cutter, was not that bad.

View attachment 3094081

I started on my replacement dash a while back. removed the raining pillar on the left side. Trying to take a little metal as possible used a Dremel. Went thru a bunch of discs. What did you to cut the welds along the sides. Did you use spot welder cutter on the glove box spot welds. How did you cut the spot welds on the top of the dash. As I remember the top is flange that is folded over a lip on top of the cowl. Did you drill from the front side or dash side?

 

[JustJay]

It's spot welded to the cowl and then curls over. Easiest thing to do is cut the top section of the cowl out to get access th the dash welds. They are a PITA. the spot welds you have cicled are just holding the dash pad bracket on.

I was hoping that those spot welds that hold the dash pad bracket on were actually also holding the dash on under the curl. Are you saying there are actually other spot welds that I've got to contend with? I'll be armed with a spot weld cutter (thanks Drake) but want to make sure I'm attacking the right ones!

 

[JustJay]

My

I started on my replacement dash a while back. removed the raining pillar on the left side. Trying to take a little metal as possible used a Dremel. Went thru a bunch of discs. What did you to cut the welds along the sides. Did you use spot welder cutter on the glove box spot welds. How did you cut the spot welds on the top of the dash. As I remember the top is flange that is folded over a lip on top of the cowl. Did you drill from the front side or dash side?

I wouldn't take direction from me but I used an angle grinder and (cringe) sawzall with metal cutting blade to cut off the sides of the donor vehicle dash. I'd like to be more precise when it comes to cutting the rig I'm restoring. I'll be interested to hear other responses on best way to tackle those spot welds.

 

[Engineer8000]

I used a grinder with cut off wheel for the ends. I used a Dremel for the glove box to firewall welds. If I recall I think the pad bracket spot welds and dash to cowl spot welds are the same. There are no other spot welds showing on the dash piece. Look at the location/spacing on my dash vs. yours. It takes some prying and a little Dremel work to get things loose once you drill out the spot welds.

 

[JustJay]

I used a grinder with cut off wheel for the ends. I used a Dremel for the glove box to firewall welds. If I recall I think the pad bracket spot welds and dash to cowl spot welds are the same. There are no other spot welds showing on the dash piece. Look at the location/spacing on my dash vs. yours. It takes some prying and a little Dremel work to get things loose once you drill out the spot welds.

Agreed. I just looked at it again and am pretty confident they are the same.

 

[Engineer8000]

found this one of the dash removed

and this

 

[bikersmurf]

found this one of the dash removed

View attachment 3094574

and this
View attachment 3094576

View attachment 3094582

Seeing your pictures of the dash removed had me considering how much easier it would be to wire in the EFI and rewire the truck without it in the way. However seeing how big a project it is to remove it makes we reconsider. I think I’ll settle for pulling the heater, instrument cluster and seats. It won’t be as convenient, but I think I’ll save time in the end.

If I’m going to do this, I’ll hide as much of the wiring and “boxes” as possible. I’ve seen wiring done where the bulk of it was hidden, and I’ve seen wiring where it’s all clearly visible. I’d like it to be as clean as possible… at least as clean as stock.

 

[Engineer8000]

Wiring hidden in my truck, this was my test fit/functional test:

 

[bikersmurf]

Wiring hidden in my truck, this was my test fit/functional test:

View attachment 3094697

Looks good. Man that’s a lot of work to do all that.

FYI, in ‘96 I rewired a bunch of stuff under the hood when I swapped in a SBC. At the time I wrapped up the wiring with ‘Magic Wrap” an as seen on tv product. All those looms are still in great shape 26 years later despite the temperatures and oil they’ve been exposed to.

I had some 3M wire wrap I’ve used for other things… it hasn’t stood up nearly as well. Some of the 3M wrap fails within a couple months due to heat and UV light. It was only designed for high voltage electrical splices, but nonetheless, I was kinda surprised how quickly it deteriorated.

 

[Engineer8000]

I have recently been using techflex insultherm sleeving.

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[Living in the Past]

Wiring hidden in my truck, this was my test fit/functional test:

View attachment 3094697

How much of that is non stock wiring? Not sure what that box that looks audio down by the evaporter. A/C add much? I see a advantage mine being a FST. Bought it with a hard top on it going to be just a soft top. Electric winch controlled by a plug on the dash being replaced my a OEM PTO winch. Fairey OD requires no wiring.

Is there a reason your using a 74+ heater, for the A/C to vent out. Have an evaporter like that vent that replaces the vent on the heater that provides better air flow. Keeping for the 45 pickup cab.

Here is the monster evaporter that came in my 73.

 

[Engineer8000]

A good bit of that wiring on the right is for the 3fe. I added an extra circuit for the audio. That is a Toyota cassette player down by the evaporator. I'm using the later heater with that AC unit for better air distribution.