you can also buy little coilovers in many different rates. like helpers or motorcycle apps.
Anyone designing and building their own independant suspension? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter nat
- Start date
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The trailing arms we build are about the most complicated item on the trailer. They are build using a template that's completely aligned so everything is parallel, but we still have a 20% reject rate due to warping during welding.
Apart from the welds producing a warp the stub axles have to be welded in with a butt weld and there is some wiggle room between the shaft and the tube it's being welded into. So you can have a perfectly square arm with a spindle that's off.
Since this Spring we have introduced an patented adjustable trailing arm allowing for alignment in the camber and toe in. The difference in performance both on and off road is much more apparent than we had thought.
Apart from the welds producing a warp the stub axles have to be welded in with a butt weld and there is some wiggle room between the shaft and the tube it's being welded into. So you can have a perfectly square arm with a spindle that's off.
Since this Spring we have introduced an patented adjustable trailing arm allowing for alignment in the camber and toe in. The difference in performance both on and off road is much more apparent than we had thought.
That is why you guys are #1!
Good stuff here Martyn, what do you do with the 20% rejects? Gotta a garage sale anytime soon?
That is why you guys are #1!
Good stuff here Martyn, what do you do with the 20% rejects? Gotta a garage sale anytime soon?
No, we sell them to the other Off Road Trailer Companies out there
this is a killer thread all about it from ExPo...
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4804
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4804
Also I have thought heavily about building an imitation independent rear arm suspension similar to AT's. Martyn have even been supportive of it which is awesome. I have been thinking about building a custom trailer for a long time. But after intense discussion with Kurt Williams, whose trailer uses a regular old straight axle and (**key being**) long leaf springs from an auto application (FJ55 rear leafs) and it hauls ass at 75 mpg on the dirt roads and 90mph on the roads just fine. Bery little liability, Kurt also drives like a madman sometimes I think this actually be my route though it is slightly "less cool"
I think this actually be my route though it is slightly "less cool" 
Also I have thought heavily about building an imitation independent rear arm suspension similar to AT's. Martyn have even been supportive of it which is awesome. I have been thinking about building a custom trailer for a long time. But after intense discussion with Kurt Williams, whose trailer uses a regular old straight axle and (**key being**) long leaf springs from an auto application (FJ55 rear leafs) and it hauls ass at 75 mpg on the dirt roads and 90mph on the roads just fine. Bery little liability, Kurt also drives like a madman sometimes
Timely discussion Andre... My Trail Trailer vers.2 will have a totally different suspension underneath it... simple, yet adjustable
I'm keeping quiet about it until I pull it off... stop by and I'll show you the parts. The only reason I am interested in changing suspension types is to acheive a lower profile trailer while maintaining the same ground clearance and storage capacity. I've got my new trailer design ~65% designed in SolidWorks, still waiting on some outside vendors to come up with the final portion of the design. I would love to make the "skins" out of some sort of composite, fiberglass? HDPE? Aluminum skins? Not sure yet. With composites comes the issue with sealing against moisture & dust. While my current trailer (85% fiberglass body) has been a great setup, another fiberglass tub is not readily available, and I hate to salvage that trailer (plus its likely going to a freind). FWIW, I am completely sold on the solid axle and leaf springs if properly setup, with a major emphasis on proper setup. My trailer has ~10k miles on it... not a single issue with the handling of the leafs once I had it dialed in (proper loading techniques). I've had it on all sorts of terrain, sidehills, sand, jumps, etc... couldn't be happier. Add a sway bar into the mix and you've got something going IMO. If I was building a simple off-road trailer, I would go with leafs in a heart-beat.
Timely discussion Andre... My Trail Trailer vers.2 will have a totally different suspension underneath it... simple, yet adjustable
FWIW, I am completely sold on the solid axle and leaf springs if properly setup, with a major emphasis on proper setup. My trailer has ~10k miles on it... not a single issue with the handling of the leafs once I had it dialed in (proper loading techniques). I've had it on all sorts of terrain, sidehills, sand, jumps, etc... couldn't be happier. Add a sway bar into the mix and you've got something going IMO. If I was building a simple off-road trailer, I would go with leafs in a heart-beat.
Kurt, let me know when you have the new suspension built, it will be interesting to see what you have come up with.
Suspension is obviously the critical factor with trailers, Torsion axles are my least favorite, and then leaf springs and a live axle. I agree that a well adjusted long leaf spring provides excellent suspension, and the availability of off the shelf parts makes it a good choice for the DIY trailer builder.
The independent trailing arm still provides the smoothest ride.
The biggest problem we have is people forgetting they are towing a trailer, there is so little movement fed back to the tow vehicle. If you watch the end of the You Tube video at http://www.atreport.com/video.html you can see the independent suspension pumping as the trailer is towed through Kane Creek.
- Thread starter
- #30
Timely discussion Andre... My Trail Trailer vers.2 will have a totally different suspension underneath it... simple, yet adjustable
FWIW, I am completely sold on the solid axle and leaf springs if properly setup, with a major emphasis on proper setup. My trailer has ~10k miles on it... not a single issue with the handling of the leafs once I had it dialed in (proper loading techniques). I've had it on all sorts of terrain, sidehills, sand, jumps, etc... couldn't be happier. Add a sway bar into the mix and you've got something going IMO. If I was building a simple off-road trailer, I would go with leafs in a heart-beat.
I loaded my copy of Solidworks 2001 and it does not like my video card
I am trying to get a copy of Solidedge, which is what we used at Stanford. I prefer Solidworks though.
Hello,
I made my suspension with links and air bags, works great. Only problem with trailer has been the pintle (my fault). The biggest benefit to the links is the trailer bed can be wider as you do not have to worry about the axle putting the tire in to the fender. I used the method mentioned before where the axle was complete when I welded it to the links, this kept it straight. I then cut out the axle tube in the center. Works great! Will try to get more pics of the suspension. I should note the spring hangers in the pic were just for placement. Also the frame shot is looking at the bottom of the trailer.
Scott
I made my suspension with links and air bags, works great. Only problem with trailer has been the pintle (my fault). The biggest benefit to the links is the trailer bed can be wider as you do not have to worry about the axle putting the tire in to the fender. I used the method mentioned before where the axle was complete when I welded it to the links, this kept it straight. I then cut out the axle tube in the center. Works great! Will try to get more pics of the suspension. I should note the spring hangers in the pic were just for placement. Also the frame shot is looking at the bottom of the trailer.
Scott
- Thread starter
- #32
Very nice, I am glad to see someone who has done it.
Which bags did you use? I am looking at some on Summit.
Which bags did you use? I am looking at some on Summit.
Springs
Thanks, The bags are from Slam specialties, I have about 10" of travel since they are mounted on the links closer to the pivots. My only regret is that I should have made the links a bit longer. The Jeep and Trailer sit on 37"s. When on the trail, I just air down to about 8 psi. It follows nicely. The tongue slides in the receiver that runs bumper to bumper on the trailer.
Here is the specs on the bags...
Model RE-6
Diameter "0" PSI 6"
Diameter Max PSI 6"
Max PSI 200
Plate Material Zinc/Aluminum
Min Height 2.9"
Max Height 10"
Mounting (Top) (2) 3/8" - 16
Mounting (Bottom) (3) 3/8" - 16
Air Port NPT (1) 1/2"
Interal Bump Stops Y
Force to Collapse
(Min Height)
130 lbs
Replaces -
Firestone 255
Goodyear 2B6
http://www.slamspecialties.com/specs/RE-6.pdf
I have to figure out a better way to run the airlines, you can see them wrapped around the tongue. I have line to each bag, and the regulator sits in the back of the jeep. After pulling it for a number of trips I don't see any reason why the bags couldn't be on one line. I put some old shocks on the trailer just to dampen things a bit. I have a 30 gallon water tank in it. The idea was to build something that would allow us to get away for 5 days.
I am now considering putting bags on the Jeep with links.
Thanks, The bags are from Slam specialties, I have about 10" of travel since they are mounted on the links closer to the pivots. My only regret is that I should have made the links a bit longer. The Jeep and Trailer sit on 37"s. When on the trail, I just air down to about 8 psi. It follows nicely. The tongue slides in the receiver that runs bumper to bumper on the trailer.
Here is the specs on the bags...
Model RE-6
Diameter "0" PSI 6"
Diameter Max PSI 6"
Max PSI 200
Plate Material Zinc/Aluminum
Min Height 2.9"
Max Height 10"
Mounting (Top) (2) 3/8" - 16
Mounting (Bottom) (3) 3/8" - 16
Air Port NPT (1) 1/2"
Interal Bump Stops Y
Force to Collapse
(Min Height)
130 lbs
Replaces -
Firestone 255
Goodyear 2B6
http://www.slamspecialties.com/specs/RE-6.pdf
I have to figure out a better way to run the airlines, you can see them wrapped around the tongue. I have line to each bag, and the regulator sits in the back of the jeep. After pulling it for a number of trips I don't see any reason why the bags couldn't be on one line. I put some old shocks on the trailer just to dampen things a bit. I have a 30 gallon water tank in it. The idea was to build something that would allow us to get away for 5 days.
I am now considering putting bags on the Jeep with links.
more pics, limited here by size, can't seem to find another way so here is the link...
http://www.cj2ainaz.shutterfly.com/action
http://www.cj2ainaz.shutterfly.com/action
inkpot
SILVER Star
Howdy! I would not recommend connecting both air bags to just one supply hose. It allows the pressure to go back and forth lefty - righty when you wobble. I had this problem on my firewood trailer in Wyoming. It was a 1962 1/2ton Chevy bed with air shocks. It took me a while to figure out why it rocked sideways so bad, whether it was loaded or not. I went from one common air chuck on the hitch to two separate chucks, and the problem went away. I could go from about 25 psi empty to 100 psi for a full load in about 5 minutes with my little old original Coleman 12v plug in compressor. John
Very cool set up thanks for sharing!
Drew
Drew
alia176
SILVER Star
Pardon my curiosity, why didn't you build the arms in this manner? Seems like there'd be more support this way.
Again, just curious!
Ash
Again, just curious!
Ash
- Thread starter
- #40
That is how I was planning on doing mine. I should hold up to torsional stress real well.
