Anybody uses Moly grease in Ujoints and prop shaft? (1 Viewer)

[e9999]

OK, so the manual is pretty clear, it wants Moly/Lithium in the knuckles and Lithium (I imagine that means non-Moly) in the Ujoints and slip yoke of the propeller shafts.

Now, I have read the occasional "Moly makes roller bearing slip..." etc but have no idea whether there is any fact behind those statements. Any serious study someplace that shows that?

I would normally follow slavishly whatever the FSM says, but would rather not have 2 greases to deal with. (And also am vaguely wondering if this distinction may be a remnant of the old days when Moly might perhaps have been considered a fancier grade unnecessary in the prop shaft -not likely.)

Sooo, is there anybody out there who has routinely used Moly grease on the prop shafts and saw no ill effects? Or knows about this for sure?

Would not mind standardizing on one grease only...

thanks
Eric
(yes, did a search)

 

[stlcruiser]

I use 1 grease gun with the Molly for the routine squirts in the knuckles and on the six fittings on the u-joints and shafts. Only one grease gun.

Never had a problem.

This moly is NOT a subsitiute for MP grease for wheel bearings though. Use the tubs for that.

Steve
94' 120,000

 

[cruiserman]

Get 2 grease guns. I've got 4 .

 

[mabrodis]

[quote author=stlcruiser link=board=2;threadid=13747;start=msg127440#msg127440 date=1080318396]
This moly is NOT a subsitiute for MP grease for wheel bearings though. Use the tubs for that.
[/quote]
This is what I have heard, but then you look at recent info and almost everyone uses moly grease for everything. Even the tubs of moly grease from Valvoline or whoever just say they are OEM spec for certain companies, usually GM ones and such, so I don't buy the idea that moly is bad for wheel bearings. I know on the 80-series list this was chatted about and someone wrote in that had been a service man for some large company, after a dozen years or so of wheel bearing work, nobody had ever heard of a bearing sliding not rolling and causing a flat spot.

I use RedLine grease in my u-joints (and anything else around the garage), which by most accounts is about the best out there, or tied with Amzoil, yet their grease has moly in it and is specifically for wheel bearings, and any highspeed bearing. Here's RedLine's stuff from their webpage:

Red Line CV-2 Grease is designed to withstand the extreme temperatures and pressures which occur in high-performance wheel bearings and CV-joints. The excellent high-temperature stability, extreme- pressure protection, and water resistance enables it to out-perform even the best conventional or synthetic greases. Red Line CV-2 Grease can be used in a wide range of applications at temperatures ranging between -100°F to 500°F and provides good oxidation and corrosion resistance, low evaporation and oil separation, and has a minimum effect on rubber seals. The exceptional extreme- pressure performance and the fluidity of the synthetic oil allows increases in bearing life of 200% to 800%. Red Line CV-2 Grease contains a red moly compound which is a superior lubricant to black moly disulfide lubricants.

Red Line CV-2 Grease may also be used in industrial applications such as high-temperature alternator bearings, high-speed ball bearings, conveyor bearings, worm gear drives, servo mechanisms, and applications where vibrations can cause fretting wear and corrosion to take place.

Red Line CV-2 Grease will retain its consistency and extreme-pressure performance under high- temperature and high-shear conditions for extended periods, which extends the performance ranges of the lubricated components. Red Line CV-2 will darken after high-temperature use; this darkening will not detrimentally effect the performance of the grease. Although Red Line CV-2 is compatible with small amounts of many petroleum-based greases, it is always good lubrication practice to thoroughly clean out the old grease to eliminate abrasive particles and to minimize the possibility of grease incompatibility.

Now, whether you believe that or not I don't know, but anybody I've talked to that does alot of vehicle bearing work has never seen a flat bearing because of using the wrong grease.

Just my $0.00 worth...

 

[jwest]

Whoa... hold on a minute. This is my understanding...
Molybdenum (moly) is just an element. It is also an ingredient in many greases and lubricants. Some oil companies may also add moly in their motor oil additive packages.

It is the ASTM designation, and not the addition of moly into grease, which determines whether a grease qualifies as a wheel bearing grease. Therefore, whether a grease contains moly or not is a purely a manufacturers decision.

Most, if not all greases are lithium based. So when a manual calls out Moly/Lithium, it suggests using a Lithium based Moly grease such as CRC's Molygraph. Not "Lithium Grease" which is usually white and in spray can form.

Nobody's yet suggested that moly itself is bad for wheel bearings. However, it has become a general understanding that the generic "moly grease" is just a chassis grease, that is satisfactory for u-joints and propshafts and sure, for the land cruiser OUTER knuckles. And that this generic "moly grease" does not qualify as a high-temp disc brake/wheel bearing grease.

 

[Poser]

Have used Caterpillar 16.00oz cartidge multipurpose Lithium grease, that contains 3-5 percent Molybdenum disulfide grease, part number 5P-0960(NLGI Grd. 2) for years as a chassis/driveshafts and knuckle/Fing birfield lubricant...and for wheel bearings, 1P-0808, which is a multipurpose lithium grease, that does not contain Molybdenum disulfide, and conforms to NLGI Grd. 2 ...this is a high tempurature 350F/175C grease..

Good luck!

-Steve

 

[ppc]

Bottom line is to lubricate those things that need lubrication!!

Now you have to ask the question why would Mr T call out different specs? How much does another grease gun cost? Last two I picked up were about $15 each or less. Is it really that hard of a decision or an effort to buy two types. Eric, how much effort, posts, time and money did you spend to get the Cruiser in the first place and now you're worried about spending $20? My biggest problem is keeping track of which gun contents are which.

 

[e9999]

yes, I'm wondering why the manual would call for 2 different greases. Seems odd since the only difference appears to be the moly. And that would be a plus I would think. At least in the owner's manual I have it does not call for specific greases, just the general type.
If that were all right, I'd rather use one grease -the better one- all around. But if we can't figure it out, I guess I'll go with two.
E

 

[inacoma]

I use moly fortefied amzoil grease (purple) for everything (u-joints, knuckles, etc). For the wheel bearings, I went ahead and used the Series 2000 grease (white) and packed them with a bearing packer (love that cheap little tool). ok, probably wrote more than you wanted to know.

KUmar