Anybody local have a view on this '100 Series total brake failure' issue?

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80's still rule. My brakes are soft all the time but work all the time.
 
And for those not familiar, the "booster" in a 100-series is actually an electric boost pump that supplies pressure/fluid to an accumulator. When you lose that boost pump, you get close to no braking force when you step on the pedal.
So the tried and true, ultra-dependable booster and master cylinder are no longer good enough? What has Toyota done? This is enough to keep me out of a100.
 
So the tried and true, ultra-dependable booster and master cylinder are no longer good enough? What has Toyota done? This is enough to keep me out of a100.

My current assessment (guess), given the data seen so far, is that they begin to become dangerous (though this is a personal judgment) if not replaced after 100K miles. As a cost that's annoying, and is definitely anomalous in the context of Toyota's engineering in general, but may not disqualify the 100 Series altogether.

It would certainly be nice though if Toyota were to respond by making the parts available at a much lower price.
 
interesting. they have to make it harder for us to fix our own junk and rely on the dealership more and more. :mad:
 
I can only guess that the pump and accumulator make the ABS function easier than the old reliable vacuum booster.
 
So the tried and true, ultra-dependable booster and master cylinder are no longer good enough? What has Toyota done? This is enough to keep me out of a100.

And a 4Runner, and a FJC. They all use the same system. Got to stay old school to keep yer junk out of the dealer's garage.
 
Does the second gen Tacoma have this same type of MC/Booster?
 
I can only guess that the pump and accumulator make the ABS function easier than the old reliable vacuum booster.

I have the same system on my 4Runner and my *guess* is that ATRAC requires a pressurized system for it to work properly. In other words, ATRAC and DAC (downhill assist) functions are activating the ABS solenoid valves on your behalf (sort of like you are pressing on the brake pedal). My guess is that the system is pressurized at 2,000+ PSI for the traction aid systems to work properly. I was truly impressed by these two systems while running the San Juan mt trails last week. Admittedly, the ABS solenoid "clicking" can be rather annoying at time but the vehicle is going where an open diff wouldn't otherwise be able to go so easily.

My 1990 Range Rover had the same exact system, even though it didn't have any of this fancy traction aid stuff, only ABS for hard braking on slippery conditions.
 
OK, Cruiserparts called me back and said they had the price wrong: they would have to charge me an extra $250. So per advice above I called Dan at American Toyota, got the MUD discount and now I'm all set up with them. Thanks once again for good advice from this group!
 
come on, it's like 8 bolts and having the wife or a friend pump the brakes to bleed the master and brakes. save the $200 labor and install yourself. you learn more that way. and you will know in the driveway if it's done right or not. that my philosophy and hasn't done me wrong yet. it's not rocket science. youtube is your friend. :D


You can't use the old fashioned method to bleed the brakes in a electronically controlled hydraulic system. It has to be done with the SST's.
 
Onur! Where the heck have you been? I don't see a Toyota dealership in your sig line anymore. What's up? Do you have a better source on these stupid expensive MC/pumps/accumulators? Would you trust the replace and purge to a reputable independent shop or AmToy only?
 
No I don't have a better source.

Wish I did.

All of this stuff is now very proprietary unfortunately.

A reputable shop should be able to do it just as well as AmToy.... Toyomasters, Bills Toy shop, etc.


That said, again, I reiterate, do not employ the old school pump-pump, bleed method with these more advanced units or you will be buying a new unit... Again.
 
I had the entire unit replaced last week at American Toyota. From the invoice:

- Parts; Master cylinder assembly incl brake booster pump, list price: $2,996.49
- MUD Discount (yay!): -$749.12 (call Dan Busey, American Toyota, 888-214-4574)
- Parts, net: $2,247.37
- Labor (incl flush system): $440
TOTAL: $2,687.37

Observations, following completion of the work:

- I had taped a pad on the top of my brake pedal due to what I thought was an ergonomic issue - I couldn't achieve a comfortable driving position without raising the top of the brake pedal. After replacing the master cylinder that problem went away, and I now understand the pedal was sitting way low.

- I had also thought my braking was normal (I had purchased the vehicle at 165,000 miles), but I now realize it was both spongy and fading pretty badly.

Taking these two together it's not hard to believe that my old unit, at 179,500 miles, was well on its way to the sort of failure others have described, even though previous inspections had not flagged the issue.
 
I had the entire unit replaced last week at American Toyota. From the invoice:

- Parts; Master cylinder assembly incl brake booster pump, list price: $2,996.49
- MUD Discount (yay!): -$749.12 (call Dan Busey, American Toyota, 888-214-4574)
- Parts, net: $2,247.37
- Labor (incl flush system): $440
TOTAL: $2,687.37

Glad to hear this all worked out OK (other than a large repair bill). We're fortunate to have Cruiser Dan as a local resource, as well as being a great source of Mud-discounted authentic Toyota parts!
 
^^^ What Evan said.

As well as being the person you can rely on to bring the cheapest beer possible to any event.

Drink all of his first!!

;)
 

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