anybody ever broke a Detroit like this?

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i was just climbing a steep rocky hill when this happened, no bind or bouncing, guess it was fatigue from previous abuse? it took out the axle shaft too right at the splines. or the axle shaft broke first and took out the detroit, not totally sure. when it first happened it was making a sound like it was jumping splines and still turning that wheel some, then it just started making a gawdawful squeeling sound. sheared that part that the bearing presses onto off clean, looks like it was done with a bandsaw

073.jpg
 
good work there.. Was the bearing cap on tight?
 
Yep, mine did the same thing. Axle broke shattered the Detroit.
 
There's another guy ,here on the east coast , that had the same issue.
 
Hi All:

Well, that certainly sucks! :frown: :mad: :crybaby:

Was this a stock Land Cruiser axle? What have you done to rectify the situation?

Regards,

Alan

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Yep, mine did the same thing. Axle broke shattered the Detroit.
 
yep it's a stock axle, only the 2nd rear axle shaft i've broken in 5 or 6 years.........and i am looking for a c&c 14 bolt to rectify the situation!
 
and your specs are .. ?

Just to know where it's the breaking point ..

4 linked front and rear, TPI350/th400/3.0atlas and yota driveshafts and axles, front axle is built to the hilt, rear is a fj60 with cryo'd and heat treated r&p, stock shafts
 
Josie'sLandCruiser said:
Hi All:

Well, that certainly sucks! :frown: :mad: :crybaby:

Was this a stock Land Cruiser axle? What have you done to rectify the situation?

Regards,

Alan

----------------------------------------------------
4.88 in a stock axle. Bought some chrome molys and replaced the Detroit with another one. No problems this far.

Sent from my DroidCruiser
 
I assumed you called Trachtech/ Eaton for a price on a new ca$e & that's why you're looking for used. I've never seen a used LC Detroit case only for sale. You're right at that breaking point where do you throw more ca$h at the Toy part or go ahead & upgrade :confused:

rear is a fj60 with cryo'd and heat treated r&p, stock shafts

Never heard of Cryo (freezing) & heat treating gears, one process after another. You either do one or the other, not both. What do you think about going for Poly rears? You gonna cut your losses & just go for the ditch digger 14 bolt?
 
Never heard of Cryo (freezing) & heat treating gears, one process after another. You either do one or the other, not both. What do you think about going for Poly rears? You gonna cut your losses & just go for the ditch digger 14 bolt?

Bobby used to do both on his birfs. They do independent things..

Polys are only possibly an upgrade
 
Bobby did my gears

Believe it or not i've got a line on a case, when i get the 60 rear back together i am selling it, or parting it out.

14bolt is def in the works, going to look at one hopefully today, and i'm gonna do the barnes 13 bolt diff cover so maybe clearance won't be too bad?
 
a well shaved 14 bolt does not hang down that far at all.
 
I'm hoping the weight of the 14 will help balance my rig out some, right now it's very light in the rear
 
Polys are only possibly an upgrade

wan't guy in Florida that was working on SF rears ..? ( IIRC we were talking about that few months ago )
 
yes, he was sort of taking orders in the hardcore section so the thread got axed.

Axlecraft I think was his username
 
I'm really considering a 14 bolt Too.
It would be REALLY NICE to NOT have to worry about your rear axle again.
 
There's another guy ,here on the east coast , that had the same issue.
Yep mine cracked right at the same spot, but it was after the stock rear axle broke, Im also looking for a case, i called Eaton and they quoted me $450 for the outer case. too much for me so i just welded it. we'll see how that workes for a while, and replaced the axle with another stock one
 

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