Any unique weakness of Hundy compared to other Toyota V8 trucks and more (1 Viewer)

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Hi All!
As super reliable as our Hundys are, there are a few known mechanical/cosmetic weaknesses or potential costly replacements that have been frequently discussed here on MUD. I'm wondering which ones are unique to Hundy relative to other Toyota V8s, versus which ones are common in all Toyota V8s, all Toyotas or even large trucks in general?

For example, heater-T, is this a common weakness to all cars made in Hundy's era due to usage of plastic?

AHC is in LX/Late LC only and can fail. But still a lot more reliable than any non-Toyota systems probably?

Starter location awkwardness is common in all Toyota V8s, but not an issue for V4/V6?

Windshield replacement complexity applies to all Toyota trucks/cars maybe?

Brake booster replacement costly in all Toyota V8 but not other Toyotas?

Rust-prone but better than 2nd Gen Tacoma?

Not having timing chain is common in many makes/models in that era, so it's not unique at all. But the trucks with chains can fail too, at higher mileage but costs a lot more than timing belt to replace? Also, do water pump etc. (those parts that would get replaced during every timing belt change) need replacement every 100k despite chains last longer? If that's the case, then maybe having timing belt is an advantage :D Since many of our trucks have > 200k miles, doing 2 timing belt + accessories replacements would be cheaper than 1 chain replacement + 2 accessory replacements?

Thanks for the education!
These information can be very helpful for newbies doing research and choosing between LX/LC, 4runner, Sequoia, Tundra, Taco, or non-Toyota trucks.
 
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Heater tee’s are a replacement item and shouldn’t be an issue with maintenance.

Hydraulic suspension is common on multiple platforms, ahc is relatively reliable with maintenance.

Starter location is used on many different makes and models between the V. The 2uzfe came in first and second gen tundras, first and second gen sequoias, 100s, lx+g470, and 4runner. So there are a lot of Toyotas with starters in the V, also a lot of other Toyota v8s have the starter in the V

Windshield….. that’s the only one on the 100 thats really worse

Brake boosters at around the 100 series timeframe started to become more and more complex on most vehicles. Just as expensive in many other Toyotas.

All Toyotas rust, Japanese Toyota frames seem to hold up better than American made frames (tundra, tacoma, sequoia). Seems the 100 is a little more rust prone in the rear quarters and upper hatch, than say a 4runner of the same era.

The 100 does have quirks but most of those quirks can be easily dealt with.
 
On an engineering standpoint, I don’t see anywhere to put the starter that can be as space and accessibility efficient as it is (granted the available technology during the time of the engine design and architecture). Can’t be away from the motor, can’t be on top of the intake manifold, or on the bell housing of the transmission (top or bottom) as it turns the flywheel to rotate the crankshaft. That’s one, I’ll be back for more lol.
 
For example, heater-T, is this a common weakness to all cars made in Hundy's era due to usage of plastic?
Not a weakness but rather a *maintenance item* common on multiple other Toyotas (sequoia, Sienna, 4runner, etc)
AHC is in LX/Late LC only and can fail. But still a lot more reliable than any non-Toyota systems probably?
AHC is more reliable and better than the dumb air suspension on the GX.
Starter location awkwardness is common in all Toyota V8s, but not an issue for V4/V6?
Not an issue for any other model Toyota v6 or v8 engine, to my knowledge (2uz is in multiple Toyota models tho). BUT, it’s actually a pretty good idea to stuff it up high and under the intake to avoid water and mud damage, in my opinion.
Brake booster replacement costly in all Toyota V8 but not other Toyotas?
2001 and up 4Runners, 2001 and up Tacomas, 1998 and up Cruisers, etc. all have a similar booster.
Rust-prone but better than 2nd Gen Tacoma?
Nothing is as bad as 2nd Gen Tacoma frames.
But the trucks with chains can fail too, at higher mileage but costs a lot more than timing belt to replace?
Typically catastrophic damage when a chain goes (usually the guides break) because more often than not chain = interference engine.
Also, do water pump etc. (those parts that would get replaced during every timing belt change) need replacement every 100k despite chains last longer?
Yes. But Water pumps on timing chain engines are typically run off one of the accessory belts and are much easier to change.
 
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Thanks for the very helpful info and insight!
Whenever Scotty Kilmer talks about how reliable/wonderful Toyotas/Lexus are, he often mentions the V8 ones as exceptions and uses the starter location, brake booster price and MPG as examples. This can be very misleading to the newbies or potential buyers because the non-V8 have similar costs or maintenance requirements.

And for MPG, a 14mpg Hundy (which need only regular 87 gas) is actually more efficient to the dollar than a later model 17mpg GX460 (which requires premium gas).
:geek:
 
Heater Ts are not even close to a common weakness. They all last about 15 years and take every bit of 38.5 minutes to change every 15 years. Water pumps and timing belts aren't weaknesses. For most, the only reason the pump and TB don't last 200+k miles is because they are changed prematurely in perfect working condition. I may have five brake boosters go out by nightfall but until now I have never had one go out in 18 years of owning several hundys.

With that said, all newbies should really consider those cool Sequoias and 4Runners.
 
The front IFS differential is made of glass. Both the 2 and 4 pinion variations. Best to swap out for an ARB or Elocker.
 
With that said, all newbies should really consider those cool Sequoias and 4Runners.
I was going to until I saw this comment.

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I've seen many videos referencing the starter location lately and yeah it's kind of a pain but if you use a quality factory starter they have a very long lifespan. So if you use the right parts it will likely only be done once or maybe 2x in 500k miles. Also a good time to do the coolant cross over gaskets while back there.
 
I've seen many videos referencing the starter location lately and yeah it's kind of a pain but if you use a quality factory starter they have a very long lifespan. So if you use the right parts it will likely only be done once or maybe 2x in 500k miles. Also a good time to do the coolant cross over gaskets while back there.
It’s probably not a major concern, but a new oem starter is made in Thailand (according to partsouq pictures). Quality parts can be made anywhere, but it still is intriguing. That said, it probably beats the hell out of whatever autozone dura-crap has to offer.
 
Hi All!
As super reliable as our Hundys are, there are a few known mechanical/cosmetic weaknesses or potential costly replacements that have been frequently discussed here on MUD. I'm wondering which ones are unique to Hundy relative to other Toyota V8s, versus which ones are common in all Toyota V8s, all Toyotas or even large trucks in general?

For example, heater-T, is this a common weakness to all cars made in Hundy's era due to usage of plastic?

AHC is in LX/Late LC only and can fail. But still a lot more reliable than any non-Toyota systems probably?

Starter location awkwardness is common in all Toyota V8s, but not an issue for V4/V6?

Windshield replacement complexity applies to all Toyota trucks/cars maybe?

Brake booster replacement costly in all Toyota V8 but not other Toyotas?

Rust-prone but better than 2nd Gen Tacoma?

Not having timing chain is common in many makes/models in that era, so it's not unique at all. But the trucks with chains can fail too, at higher mileage but costs a lot more than timing belt to replace? Also, do water pump etc. (those parts that would get replaced during every timing belt change) need replacement every 100k despite chains last longer? If that's the case, then maybe having timing belt is an advantage :D Since many of our trucks have > 200k miles, doing 2 timing belt + accessories replacements would be cheaper than 1 chain replacement + 2 accessory replacements?

Thanks for the education!
These information can be very helpful for newbies doing research and choosing between LX/LC, 4runner, Sequoia, Tundra, Taco, or non-Toyota trucks.

My two pennies-

The Sequoia also shares the same heater T issue. If they are replaced at every timing belt (which they are most often not) it is very rarely a problem. Metal T's, both OEM (80 series) and aftermarket are available.

The vast majority of AHC issues are due to neglected maintenance. If maintained it is a very reliable system but the average owner does not do this (and the techs that work on them usually have no idea how it works anyway).

The starter is a PITA to access compared to most engines but it also commonly lasts for 250k miles or more. I wouldn't call that a weakness.

Brake booster does suck. I had only a couple minutes between the buzzer going off and loosing my brakes which was not ideal 1,000 miles from home. I would certainly prefer a vacuum/mechanical booster that doesn't suddenly fail. No idea if the 4Runner (or others) have similar problems.

The 1st & 2nd gen Tacoma and the early Tundra and Sequoia had real rust issues. So much so that there was a massive recall. IMO the 100 doesn't suffer from rust any more than any other vehicle subjected to the same conditions.

Windshield is definitely unique to the 100 but problems only arise because of improper re-installation.

IMO, most of the points you brought up aren't design flaws but rather from improper maintenance or lack thereof. The 100 isn't fault free however. The speakers were garbage for a vehicle in its price range. Having to repack front wheel bearings as regular maintenance sucks. The NAV screens with integral HVAC can be problematic (but that's probably the same for any other touch screened vehicle of the period?). It wasn't designed for the American market in mind so niceties like cupholders are few and far between. Early 2UZ's are known to crack exhaust manifolds, VVTI engines have SAIS issues (but it can be easily and inexpensively deleted). Water can leak at the 3rd brake light...
 
Having to repack front wheel bearings as regular maintenance sucks.
Huh? Based on my experience of never doing that resulting in zero issues, I would say that is a costly myth,
 
Yeah the wheel bearing thing is only a downside to a dealer who can't just slap on complete bearing units and charge you a fortune.
And I like the hydro-electric brake booster. Incredible braking power and great ATRAC, works even if the engine dies.
 
No idea if the 4Runner (or others) have similar problems.
They do. With miles and time, they all will fail and need replaced.

Having to repack front wheel bearings as regular maintenance sucks.
What??? This is a massive blessing! The front wheel bearings on all other Toyota IFS vehicles are not serviceable, so the only options for repair when one goes out is to cut out the hub and press a new hub into the knuckle or replace the entire knuckle. We should be thanking Toyota for giving us the same tried and true hub and wheel bearing setup on the 100s as they used on all previous series Cruisers.
 
Huh? Based on my experience of never doing that resulting in zero issues, I would say that is a costly myth,

Then it's a myth perpetuated by Toyota, as is the 90k belt service which if I remember correctly you also don't subscribe to. I can't argue with the miles you rack up but I prefer to be on the safe side, even if that means I believe in Toyota's myths.

And I like the hydro-electric brake booster. Incredible braking power and great ATRAC, works even if the engine dies.

I agree, it works fantastic when it's working and I'm sure ATRAC is the primary reason it exists. Having your brakes suddenly fail without fair warning is a high price to pay, IMO.

What??? This is a massive blessing! The front wheel bearings on all other Toyota IFS vehicles are not serviceable, so the only options for repair when one goes out is to cut out the hub and press a new hub into the knuckle or replace the entire knuckle. We should be thanking Toyota for giving us the same tried and true hub and wheel bearing setup on the 100s as they used on all previous series Cruisers.

Sealed bearings last a really long time, hence why the 200 went that way. I'd prefer to have those and avoid the bearing preload, fish scales, time, etc. It's just another opportunity for someone to screw up the job.
 
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