Any tips on removeing the "felt" under the carpets? and carpet??

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 12, 2004
Threads
473
Messages
3,099
Hi everyone,
Well on a recent long drive in a major rain storm, the flood gates opened up inside of my FJ-60. I think the water got in from a few rusty areas in the rear wheel wells and soaked all of the carpeting.
So with that said I removed the front and rear seats today to pull the carpet. When I pulled the center carpet, it was somewhat stuck to the metal because of the felt material. I pulled the carpet out, however a good amount of that felt is stuck to the floor. Has anyone attempted to remove that material, if so how did you do it? I think it would be better with dynamat anyway.

HAs anyone ever attempted to wash their carpet in the washing machine? Did it destroy the carpet?

Also has anyone used the SOR carpet kit?
 
Felt - simple green and a lot of elbow grease.
Don't dynamat until you fix the leak! And look at second skin audio or Cascade audio products... good stuff.

Use a hose and simple green or other cleaner first - some have used pressure washer - hang to dry and you are set. I wouldn't use the washing machine... don't think it would fit when i pulled mine it's pretty big. Plus the channels for wiring would need to be removed. More work than it's worth IMO.

I've heard mixed reviews about SOR's kit. Lots of options out there - i have an uninstalled vinyl kit from AU that was about the price of SOR's kit, but that was a while back...

GL!
 
Stiff scrub brush.
 
Can I remove the felt that is attached to the underside of the carpet without negative side effects, like the carpet not fitting correctly? I would like to remove the OEM felt since I assume that it is a mold factory....Also I think cleaning the carpet would be better if the felt was removed.

Has anyone ever used the felt kit from Spector? Specter Off-Road Land Cruiser Parts - Page 343 Land Cruiser Molded Carpet Sets


Thanks,
Zack
 
it should fit just fine, all it really is is just padding for sound deadening, some extra insulation in the cold and heat, and cushining betweent he metal body and your feet. we had a leak in the van and fixed it and removed the padding with no problems.
 
There is some spray that is called All-Solv. It is a commercial carpet cleaning chemical that is a solvent. We use it to get up carpet glue all the time. Spray it on and scrub and rinse. It evaporates quick so you gotta keep moving but it's the best stuff out there. I believe it's made by Bridgepoint.
 
I used a wire brush to get most of it out. Haven't gotten to the residual stuff yet.
 
I had the same problem with mine. The felt or jute was seriously stinking up the car.

The felt is held down by a tar material. I ripped out all the felt I could then used a wire brush in a circular motion. You can use a torch or a heat gun to heat the tar up a bit and burn the "hairs" left by the felt. that'll give you a clean finish to put your sound deadner on. Careful not to get it too hot though because it'll burn. I put down a good layer of sound deadiner then a new layer of jute or felt from a local upholstery shop. It made a huge difference as far as noise and the stink was gone.
 
This is the mess that I am working with...........
cruiser floor 1.webp
 
Back when I raced cars, we would use dry ice. Get it in PELLETS. Spread it over the "tar" and leave it for about 10-15 minutes. LIGHTLY smack it with a hammer and it come off like peanut brittle. A little Naptha to get rid of the residue and it looks like it was never there.
 
Removing carpet

I found an awesome and super easy way to remove carpet in an FJ60. Swing by Home Depot this weekend and slide in a bunch 2x4s.

I did that a few weeks ago and when i unloaded the lumber I found that I had peeled up all the carpet. So, if you want to remove the carpet AND you have a carpentry project around the house, you can kill two birds with one stone!
 
  • Like
Reactions: SAH
I can second the 2x4 trick... I did the same thing last week and well.... Lets just say im looking into rhino lining the inside of the 60 now. creature comforts are not a must for me and I kind of like the idea of being able to hose the inside out when I want a deep clean lol.
 
x2 on the dry ice. I took it all up together. The tar is what is keeping that stuff down. Save yourselft the trouble and use dry ice. That has to be the easiest way to do it IMO. I got the "bricks" of it, crushed it with a hammer and thew it in the truck. The longer I left it on there, the faster it started "popping" off the body.
 
once i had the jute out i moved a couple bricks of dry ice around (about 5lb total), came up easy. about 2-3 min sitting and move to next spot while hammering it up. a screwdriver for some tough spots...

my brother and i pulled all the tar out in about 2 hours this way. If we had a second 5lb block of DI i think it would've gone even faster.

I then put in SSA damplifier pro.
 
once i had the jute out i moved a couple bricks of dry ice around (about 5lb total), came up easy. about 2-3 min sitting and move to next spot while hammering it up. a screwdriver for some tough spots...

my brother and i pulled all the tar out in about 2 hours this way. If we had a second 5lb block of DI i think it would've gone even faster.

I then put in SSA damplifier pro.

You can also buy dry ice pellets by the pound. They are usually less than an inch long and 1/2 inch wide. Easier to spread and cover, making it much faster that using blocks. wait about 10-15 minutes, push some of the pellets out of the way and smack the "tar" with a hammer. If it cracks it is ready to remove, if not respread and wait a little longer. May take a little longer depending on how hot the body was when you started.
 
You will usually have residue on the metal where the "tar" cracks or breaks. You'll need a strong adhesive remover or really strong degreaser to remove it. I use Naptha, it seems to work the best and leaves it looking like it was never there. I've heard some people use a little bit of gasoline or acetone but i've never used them personally.
 
You will usually have residue on the metal where the "tar" cracks or breaks. You'll need a strong adhesive remover or really strong degreaser to remove it. I use Naptha, it seems to work the best and leaves it looking like it was never there. I've heard some people use a little bit of gasoline or acetone but i've never used them personally.

I put down dampener throughout, these small spots adhered fine as well without removing the small traces of previous adhesive/residue.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom