Any tig welders in here? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter dbbowen
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ntsqd
technerd
I don't even know what "proper TIG coolant" is!
I'm sure that's a rabbit hole that I don't have time for this morning......
I'm sure that's a rabbit hole that I don't have time for this morning......
- Thread starter
- #23
This is pretty amazing. Would be nice for AC aluminum for me because I can only get a certain amount of time before ive got to let it cooled off with a normal WC air cooled 17 torch
Adding a WP-20 is probably not going to break your bank, considering the money you have already invested.`. They run $100-200 depending on the quality. The 17 torch is pretty good for 1/8 inch and less aluminum. I used my weldcraft 17 on 1/4 inch aluminum at 220 amps a couple of times without damage, but that was only for short welds. I changed the tungsten out to 1/8 inch.
ntsqd
technerd
I melted the coolant return line of a 200A torch by over-heating the flat braided lead inside it, and the resulting coolant leak scalded my arm. I might have had that ancient Lincoln 300/300 turned up a bit.....
Strongly NOT recommended!
Can't recall what it was that I was working on, but even broken aluminum SBC Sprint Car Cyl Heads didn't need that much power.
Strongly NOT recommended!
Can't recall what it was that I was working on, but even broken aluminum SBC Sprint Car Cyl Heads didn't need that much power.
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brian
SILVER Star
Basically just an environmently friendly antifreeze/coolant.
brian
SILVER Star
Should get some heavier wall pipe.Hey all, im about a month and a half or so in on TIG, been mig welding for years. Looking for any tips on improving consistency or just general imput on tig welds. Im finding that aluminum is a bit easier to get consistent welds and stainless is much more difficult.
Stainless tig. Cant seem to get the beads to consistently be the same. Is this a tempo and dab timing issue? Also, do the beads look a little cold?
That tubing typically gets fused with no filler.
- Thread starter
- #28
Man you might be right. My 17 is good for everything i do EXCEPT Cast repairs, which seem to be becoming more common. Ive repaired 2 coyote blocks just this month. Either have to sit and wait or just let it get super super hot. I repaired a heavily cracked 2jz valve cover last month and i swear it took a few hours longer than it needed to. Just waiting for the torch to cool down
This is exhaust tubing, Its kind of the thickest i can find (16ga). Do they make thicker exhaust tubing in 304 stainless? That would be great
ntsqd
technerd
For big castings, like Sprint Car cyl heads and what-not, I used a two burner electric range top to pre-heat and post-heat. Like this: portable electric stove
Turn both burners up to max and set the prepped head on it. Come back in an hour or so, do the localized heating and weld. Then set it back on the burner with the knobs set at about 1/2 and cover with a welding blanket. After an hour or so I'd turn the burners off, but leave the head under the blanket until the next day.
Sorry about all of the edits, this forum software sure screws up a html link (particularly to amazon) unless you're very specific about it. Didn't used to be that way. It's almost like Pro/E fired some coders and XenForo hired them......
Turn both burners up to max and set the prepped head on it. Come back in an hour or so, do the localized heating and weld. Then set it back on the burner with the knobs set at about 1/2 and cover with a welding blanket. After an hour or so I'd turn the burners off, but leave the head under the blanket until the next day.
Sorry about all of the edits, this forum software sure screws up a html link (particularly to amazon) unless you're very specific about it. Didn't used to be that way. It's almost like Pro/E fired some coders and XenForo hired them......
I do exactly that as well. Which reminds me I need to order a couple new burners to replace mine that are 20+ years old and not really putting out the heat they used to.
I taught myself how to tig, and prefer the finish over mig anyday. I work in dairy construction, so the guys onsite absolutely leave me for dead in their consistency.
My biggest problem is my welds usually follow a similar pattern. The first two are a practice and I get my hand in, then I do a really good weld, then the 4th weld is dog snot because I get over confident... rinse and repeat until my project is finished!
After buying the cruiser, I really wish I had spent the extra money to get an ACDC tig so I can weld aluminium.
My biggest problem is my welds usually follow a similar pattern. The first two are a practice and I get my hand in, then I do a really good weld, then the 4th weld is dog snot because I get over confident... rinse and repeat until my project is finished!
After buying the cruiser, I really wish I had spent the extra money to get an ACDC tig so I can weld aluminium.
Anyone running mig/rig combo units? Worth it or are they compromises from individual units?
They're different machines, different uses. My Miller XMT304 will do DC TIG, but I can't see a reason to ever swap everything over and use that. I've stick welded lots with it. It's superb for that in addition to MIG of coarse.
My TIG machine is a Syncrowave 350 and I regularly put the pedal down all the way. When you consider all the necessary stuff like water cooled torch and cooler it doesn't make a lot of sense to have one machine that does both.
My FIL is retired and builds hobby stuff in his shop. Last year he bought one of these cheap multiprocess welders, Hobart or Esab or such that claims MIG and TIG. He tried to do a small aluminum project with it. Spent a lot of time and some money upgrading the tig torch, getting another gas bottle and it doesn't even have a pedal- It's just a button on the torch. I hadn't heard how it was going after a few months so I brought it up when I was at his house. He took me out in the shop and asked if I could show him how to use it because he wasn't having success with it. I tried it and something was way off. I asked him if it was on AC and he didn't know that was a thing. He thought TIG was TIG. Long story short, the welder doesn't say AC or DC for TIG. Doesn't talk about it in the manual and doesn't say anything about not being able to weld aluminum so he thought it would do it fine. He even found Youtube videos of people welding aluminum with his same welder, albeit poorly, so he thought it would work fine.
IMO, if you buy one of those "shopmaster" or whatever do everything welders that do AC/DC CC/CV made by a real company then it's probably an OK machine, but you still have to switch everything over everytime you use it.
If you buy a DC inverter CC/CV machine you can DC TIG with it with the right ancillaries if you need to.
brian
SILVER Star
i have a miller 215 at the house, its ok for everything ive wanted it to do....its a lite industrial machine..only found out after i bought it, that they claim it will not run 5p....only real downside i found....and i havent actually tried to run to see if it will or not.
- Thread starter
- #35
Thats exactly how I am. I practice and practice in preparation for a part. Then when i get to the part my nerves get me and then my start is ugly. Happens a lot haha
I was originally going to run the Multimatic 220. The only upside to this machine is that it automatically switches your tanks for you between mig and tig in the same machine and its a much smaller unit. After pricing it out though, I ended up with my everlast Tig only machine and kept my miller mig separate and got a cart with a spot with 2 bottles.
If you are planning on doing a lot of stainless tig, you are going to run though gas so youll eventually get to the point where youre running a bottle that is too large for a normal welding cart. Now i use one bottle solely for back purging and my mig bottle on the cart, and a 300 cuft bottle on the ground behind my table. I like my setup a lot. My machine only goes up to 185 amps but its very small and portable. I was able to get it, a torch and hose upgrade kit, a nice foot pedal, and a furick cup kit for less than the price of selling my mig and getting the multiprocess machine.
After using the everlast, i dont think ill buy another miller. The value in the everlast machines is just too good. The price difference is insane for the same features. Whatever you do, make sure you get an AC/DC tig.
I don't think there's much difference in quality or support between big name welders and low cost stuff when it comes to the economy types of welders. The low cost Everlast type stuff is a better bet in this sense. Less money for same or even better welder.
ntsqd
technerd
One possible advantage of the big name mfg's is company longevity. MISF had a welder that he couldn't get parts for easily because the mfg was out of business.
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I'm not sure I agree with that. There are other advantages.
I use my welders for business and personal use. Mostly business. I have bought new cheap welders and plasma's and have bought new higher end welders from Lincoln and Miller. My current MIG and TIG welders I purchased lightly used higher end Miller machines in excellent shape. very happy with the machines I have.
To some extent, many commercial customers will judge my capabilities from the equipment in my shop. Whether you like that idea or it applies to you or not, it's still true. Even if the cheap welder can do the job fine most of the time it can cost you work.
I also find that harboring cheap machines leads to a cheapskate mindset and you end up attracting the wrong types of customers. Buying cheap equipment is a habit. Habits are what forms our identities. Identifying as a cheapskate attracts other cheapskates and those are the absolute worst folk to have as your customers.
Miller and Lincoln do support their premium machines very well. You have a problem? They send a rep to your shop right away to solve it.
Resale value is very high for premium machines in good shape.
IMO, getting started or as a hobby go with whatever is the best bang for your dollar which is probably a low cost new machine or a well used premium machine.
Growing that business or looking to work with clientele with deep pockets? I suggest buying premium blue machines.
ntsqd
technerd
Typo, should have read "One possible.... ". Now edited.
I know it's expensive getting started, BT, DT, but buy the best tools that you can afford or justify for the project. If that means that HF & equal tools are your high end you might have the wrong hobby.
Resale, as PIP points out, is another aspect of cheap tools or machines to consider. My ancient SynchroWave 250 is still worth a considerable amount even though it lacks a lot of the features that lessor machines now offer.
One way to go is to gather like minded friends and have "community tools". For instance none of my friends can really justify owning a transmission jack, but when you need one of those there really aren't many good substitutes. With a light trans you can get away with using a floor jack. With a heavy trans you're risking serious injury to try using a floor jack. So we have one that a couple of the guys who needed one went in together on. It floats around depending on who needs it. It sat in my backyard for two years at one point in it's life before the next need for it.
One of the engine machine shops that I worked in wasn't ever clean. The assembly room was clean, but the rooms with the various machine tools in them were not. It was tidy and not a dump, but it wasn't clean. I'm sure that they lost customers based just on that, but my suggestions fell on deaf ears.
I know it's expensive getting started, BT, DT, but buy the best tools that you can afford or justify for the project. If that means that HF & equal tools are your high end you might have the wrong hobby.
Resale, as PIP points out, is another aspect of cheap tools or machines to consider. My ancient SynchroWave 250 is still worth a considerable amount even though it lacks a lot of the features that lessor machines now offer.
One way to go is to gather like minded friends and have "community tools". For instance none of my friends can really justify owning a transmission jack, but when you need one of those there really aren't many good substitutes. With a light trans you can get away with using a floor jack. With a heavy trans you're risking serious injury to try using a floor jack. So we have one that a couple of the guys who needed one went in together on. It floats around depending on who needs it. It sat in my backyard for two years at one point in it's life before the next need for it.
One of the engine machine shops that I worked in wasn't ever clean. The assembly room was clean, but the rooms with the various machine tools in them were not. It was tidy and not a dump, but it wasn't clean. I'm sure that they lost customers based just on that, but my suggestions fell on deaf ears.
