Any caster correction needed for 2" lift? (3 Viewers)

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I haven't seen many folks heading to the CAT scale to figure out their axle weights. Does the actual weight not matter as much as the effective height on the springs?
that aspect just gives people hard data to compare/make decisions with as far as what springs might work for their particular situation.
 
don't hear much about trunnion bearings around here. i see Cruiser Outfitters offers 1deg and 3deg offset bearings for $125/$135. are you using them?

i'm in need of castor correction. have been planning on getting Delta 3L arms but need to get it to an alignment shop to get the numbers. i'm on Dobinson 166/167 springs (~22.5" hub to fender) and need a knuckle job. based on research i think i'm around -2deg castor

Yes I am using them. I'm on my 2nd 80 series with these and I love them. My current rig has roughly 4+ caster with eimkeith drop mounts, 3 degree trunnion bearings and a 3" lift.
 
Yes I am using them. I'm on my 2nd 80 series with these and I love them. My current rig has roughly 4+ caster with eimkeith drop mounts, 3 degree trunnion bearings and a 3" lift.
ahh, cool. you partnered the 3deg bearings w/ the RAM's. not a popular enough combo for how cost effective it is.

edit: looked up the numbers. the eimkeith RAM is good for 3.45deg of caster. add either the 1deg or 3deg bearings for more correction.

i guess i'm somewhere between -1.5 and -2.0. with that full 3.45+3 correction i'd be between 4.95 and 4.45 caster.
 
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ahh, cool. you partnered the 3deg bearings w/ the RAM's. not a popular enough combo for how cost effective it is.

Yep, cost effective and practical. Your front axle gets moved forward 1" and the drop brackets prevent interference between the control arm and steering rods that comes with other methods of caster correction.

Or you can spend what the average American makes in 1 paycheck on a set of fancy arms 🤷‍♂️
 
My thoughts on just the bushing issue. You will get varied opinions regarding caster correction bushings. I had already shelled out for OEM bushing replacement, so I was certainly not going to have new bushings pressed out and different (caster correction) oned pressed in.
The various aftermarket radius arms are all pretty sweet looking and get you a bit more wiggle room between components. I'm in the caster plate camp myself. I still need to install my new shocks, and I've been weighing pros and cons of doing a 1" coil spacer. Once I cross that bridge, I will get one last alignment check and order up some plates. I had every intent of doing my own bushing replacement. At the time, the wit's end press kit was delayed, and I said F-it and paid a shop to do the whole front end for me.
There seem to be very dark clouds on the horizon right now re; Wit's end, but that's for another thread. I keep thinking I'll use the HF 20 ton press for something, but it's still in its box.
The trunion bearing option is another one that snuck right past me, but my front axle has been completely refreshed, so again I'd like to not go backwards.
 
Yep, cost effective and practical. Your front axle gets moved forward 1" and the drop brackets prevent interference between the control arm and steering rods that comes with other methods of caster correction.

Or you can spend what the average American makes in 1 paycheck on a set of fancy arms 🤷‍♂️
the arms can be bolted on with basic tools, and come loaded with new bushings

the bearings and RAM's require much more labor into the knuckles, and grinding/welding/painting for the RAM's

yes, one costs many times the other up front, but i don't own a welder nor can operate one effectively. many people in the same boat as me. i'd have to outsource the work to someone who can...otramm maybe....and pay for someone else's labor.
 
the arms can be bolted on with basic tools, and come loaded with new bushings

the bearings and RAM's require much more labor into the knuckles, and grinding/welding/painting for the RAM's

yes, one costs many times the other up front, but i don't own a welder nor can operate one effectively. many people in the same boat as me. i'd have to outsource the work to someone who can...otramm maybe....and pay for someone else's labor.
At this height you could easily install my plates and then drive a short distance and have a shop lay down 2 small stitches for minimum cost and inconvenience.

Then take the savings from buying arms and get a bumper or sliders or winch or stereo system or whatever which you could install yourself and add further enjoyment to your ride.
 
At this height you could easily install my plates and then drive a short distance and have a shop lay down 2 small stitches for minimum cost and inconvenience.

Then take the savings from buying arms and get a bumper or sliders or winch or stereo system or whatever which you could install yourself and add further enjoyment to your ride.
and another solid choice. i've been admiring this problem for 2 years and can't decide which route to take. i know i'm NOT doing correction bushings.

paralysis by analysis :(
 
and another solid choice. i've been admiring this problem for 2 years and can't decide which route to take. i know i'm NOT doing correction bushings.

paralysis by analysis :(
unless you are someone who likes to swap in suspension systems every once and a while this is a one time single purchase. The truck that I developed my 4" plate on is still driving around with those plates installed and not given another thought.

Reported problems from the past with some solutions have been tie rod contact with the arms, spring contact with the bump stops, drive line vibrations, premature failure and not meeting caster specs.

Any solution that avoids all those issues is a solid solution and all those solid solutions will produce similar results.

At this point it's splitting hairs and personal preference.
 
tie rod contact with the arms, spring contact with the bump stops, drive line vibrations, premature failure and not meeting caster specs

That's a nice list and it's easy to overlook some of these when first considering lifts and front-end geometry.
 
the arms can be bolted on with basic tools, and come loaded with new bushings

the bearings and RAM's require much more labor into the knuckles, and grinding/welding/painting for the RAM's

yes, one costs many times the other up front, but i don't own a welder nor can operate one effectively. many people in the same boat as me. i'd have to outsource the work to someone who can...otramm maybe....and pay for someone else's labor.
Yep, no option is perfect. Lots of different people with different lifts, different situations, different skill sets, and different budgets.
 

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