eimkeith 80 series front control arm DIY drop brackets. (1 Viewer)

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GW Nugget

Do the best you can with what you have...
GOLD Star
Joined
Jul 25, 2014
Threads
56
Messages
3,734
Location
Coalinga, CA
Website
forum.ih8mud.com
Hello all, hope you are well.

I just want to post up the install of these DIY weld in drop brackets offered from "eimkeith" pronounce like heim keith.

They fit up really good & only needed to scruff off a 16th on the passenger side bracket to get a perfect fit..
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My prototype version brackets drop down 50mm/2" & go forward 30mm/1.18"
I'm talking with Keith about making a run of 2" down & 1" forward brackets.

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My my 37s rubbed my exhaust & I knew when I went to 38s I would need to move my axle forward.
About at that time @brosky told me about these DIY brackets mounts so I figured why not give them a try.
@Box Rocket moved his axle forward & avoided pie cutting his front fenders with 37x13.5s.
This might be the ticket to fitting 37s without pie cutting front fenders besides lifting it up higher to fit them.
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Here is were my bump stops hit on axle pad.
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Did you need to get your front driveshaft extended and any rub issues with suspension or steering?

i like it, kinda wonder if anyone has gone the other way (moved the hole rearward) and lengthened the radius arms. I should really do this as I’m running 38’s, and have a set of 42” iroks in the basement.

also like the idea of lengthening the wheelbase as you get taller. Mine feels like it has a high COG when climbing hills, at some point I’d like to move both front and rear axles.
 
I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s
 
I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37sI have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s I have no need for 37s
No you don't, you need to go right to 39s
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Why is everything he makes so nice🙄

Thanks, guys! Those are some of the prototypes that GW Nugget used; the production parts changed a bit for the first run:

IMG_3736.jpg


I'm working with the feedback from the guys running the prototypes to refine these even further, so there will be minor adjustments as we go.
 
I'm working with the feedback from the guys running the prototypes to refine these even further, so there will be minor adjustments as we go.
Like your thinking with pushing the axle forward and dropping it down @eimkeith . This is the product I’ve been looking for. Looking forward to results with 37” and flares intact.
 
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Did you need to get your front driveshaft extended and any rub issues with suspension or steering?

i like it, kinda wonder if anyone has gone the other way (moved the hole rearward) and lengthened the radius arms. I should really do this as I’m running 38’s, and have a set of 42” iroks in the basement.

also like the idea of lengthening the wheelbase as you get taller. Mine feels like it has a high COG when climbing hills, at some point I’d like to move both front and rear axles.
I did not extend by driveline. I did test drop axle to full drop & all is good.
I had to reinstall the stock front bump stops because the rear bump stop cones I had in there were rubbing to much.

lengthened the radius arms? How would one do that besides purchasing new ones?
 
Thanks, guys! Those are some of the prototypes that GW Nugget used; the production parts changed a bit for the first run:

IMG_3736.jpg


I'm working with the feedback from the guys running the prototypes to refine these even further, so there will be minor adjustments as we go.
What changes have you made. Do they look different? Post pics.
 
Do these weld in brackets address castor completely for you or will you need to install castor plates as well? @GW Nugget
 
The drop brackets correct my caster since I have 2.25" of lift. It return steers good from turns & tracks strait down the road.
 
Do these weld in brackets address castor completely for you or will you need to install castor plates as well? @GW Nugget

Its not my place to speak for someone else's product, but they should correct for the amount of lift that they lower the pivot point. As most folks don't bother with CC until over 2.5", most would say probably say these would be good up to 4.5" or so of lift and then you'd want CC plates.

They do lower suspension arms which isn't always good for clearance, more so on the rocks and what not, but in terms of drivability should be better for suspension travel and handling will should be closer to un lifted with say a 2.5" lift spring as compared to a normal 2.5" lift with CC plates, actually extending the wheelbase slightly has merits as well.

In terms of on road performance, in theory (I have no experience with them) they make alot more sense than CC plates and would be my recommendation.

The only thing not in they're advantage a steeper angle on the radius arm (no drop brackets and lift) which should have less front end dive in braking, but these should roughly match factory performance to that end.


The only other alternative would be lengthening the radius arms, which in axle articulation would change CC less and give less of an arch in upward and downward travel. Another can of worms though.
 
The only thing not in they're advantage a steeper angle on the radius arm (no drop brackets and lift) which should have less front end dive in braking, but these should roughly match factory performance to that end.

I'm glad you brought that up - I don't see a lot of discussion about anti-dive in my LC80 research (albeit I am new here, so I may have missed any relevant threads on that) but one of the on-road positives and offroad drawbacks of radius arm suspension is the significant amount of anti-dive in that suspension arrangement. IIRC on my stock 95 the rear of the radius arm is slightly below the center of the axle, which makes sense for that design since raising that pivot above the axle centerline starts really changing things. My concern is steep climbs (I don't want that anti-dive jacking the front end.)

Loss of ground clearance over the factory mount is a given, but you start getting some of that back with tire diameter, so with say a 2" lift and 35s, the dropped mount is still an inch higher than the factory mount was in the stock scenario, and so on... - definitely a compromise, but really so is anything solution that retains the radius arm setup for offroad use, IMO?


The only other alternative would be lengthening the radius arms, which in axle articulation would change CC less and give less of an arch in upward and downward travel. Another can of worms though.

I agree - although at that point, might as well look to linking the front suspension, right? :)
 
I'm glad you brought that up - I don't see a lot of discussion about anti-dive in my LC80 research (albeit I am new here, so I may have missed any relevant threads on that) but one of the on-road positives and offroad drawbacks of radius arm suspension is the significant amount of anti-dive in that suspension arrangement. IIRC on my stock 95 the rear of the radius arm is slightly below the center of the axle, which makes sense for that design since raising that pivot above the axle centerline starts really changing things. My concern is steep climbs (I don't want that anti-dive jacking the front end.)

Loss of ground clearance over the factory mount is a given, but you start getting some of that back with tire diameter, so with say a 2" lift and 35s, the dropped mount is still an inch higher than the factory mount was in the stock scenario, and so on... - definitely a compromise, but really so is anything solution that retains the radius arm setup for offroad use, IMO?




I agree - although at that point, might as well look to linking the front suspension, right? :)

ya, nailed it, can’t argue any of that and would recommend these. Of course it is a bit more work for someone that doesn’t weld compared to CC brackets, but for say 3” lift and 37’s, or whatever lift needed to fit I think this is a smart move.
 
Ive been daily driving around with 2" MAF drop brackets now for about 4 years. When I switched over from yellow OME poly CC bushings, I noticed better handling, turning & tracking. I also noticed offroad more freedom of movement & 2" more drop travel at the tire. This is all documented in my build thread.

These new DIY brackets are the same design, but moved the axle forward.

On my way home from work Ive been turning the same corners faster & faster getting more & more impressed with how it handles on 38s. It feels so good that Im at the point the tires are starting to slide & squeal yet I still feel under control. I would say with my rig sitting flat level & lower COG helps also. All that is without the front sway bar connected. I might leave it off since I dont need any more confedence in the turns. No need of thinking I have a sports car & getting stupid like I was in my younger years....

As for hanging up in the rocks in reverse, I rather take my chances of such a rarity compared to the stability & confidence of handling my rig has under emergency monuvers.
 
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Thanks, guys! Those are some of the prototypes that GW Nugget used; the production parts changed a bit for the first run:
What changes have you made? I'm planning to run 37's and would like to move the axle forward 25mm to 30mm.
Would like to install a set of your brackets if they will accomplish this. What is your timing to offer these drop brackets?
I don't have welding equipment, but do have the truck at Dissent Off Road getting armor. They could weld them in for me.
Please send me a PM if I can purchase a set.
 
What changes have you made? I'm planning to run 37's and would like to move the axle forward 25mm to 30mm.
Would like to install a set of your brackets if they will accomplish this. What is your timing to offer these drop brackets?
I don't have welding equipment, but do have the truck at Dissent Off Road getting armor. They could weld them in for me.
Please send me a PM if I can purchase a set.
I’m on the road right now, but the 30mm brackets are currently available on the website and in stock: eimkeith.com
 
I’m on the road right now, but the 30mm brackets are currently available on the website and in stock: eimkeith.com
Ordered...thank you !!
 

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