Builds Another Texas LS1 Swap

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The 12v bypass should not hurt a fuel pump, I just don't know what the stock pump will support. Walbro all the way if there's a doubt. Or a TT Supra pump.
What are you installing??



FYI on the TT Supra pump..
On my superchager installation on my 94 I kept the stock pump at first. Had lack of performance issues running at lower voltage so I bypassed the relay and ran it at full 12V. That worked fine around town for several months. Took a long trip and after an hour started having stumbling problems. Put the relay back in and took it easy on the trip without further problems. I decided to replace the original pump with the TT Supra pump. It did not like the lower voltage at all and was undriveable. I bypassed the relay again it it ran OK but I didn't get enough pressure to keep up completely with my adjustable fuel pressure regulator. On long trips there are no issues. The intake sock filter did not fit as well on the TT Supra pump and I had to make minor changes to the wiring.

Next time I will be going with the Walbro even if its true that it makes more noise.
 
Call Georg @ Valley Hybrids, he will have that kit...........and prices are great, I just got an 80 Knuckle kit from him with Koyo brgs for $100

THANK YOU. Edwin is ordering up a few.
 
Cool palletized engine ...

I just saw your engine on a pallet at the LCS shop and I got a little drool on it. I hope you don't mind.
 
LOL! I don't mind. From what I'm told, it is wrapped up well. :)
 
Are you going to do the swap at the Land Cruiser Specialist shop? I'm interested in seeing how the swap is done.
 
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Are you going to do the swap at the Land Cruiser Specialist shop? I'm interested in seeing how the swap is done.

Edwin has to learn to read b4 he can do one of these:D:eek:
 
LOL. The instructions have pics.

No, I'm doing it in my driveway. Your welcome to come over. Once the rebuild kit comes in and Edwin rebuilds my tcase, the game will be a foot.
 
Found a wiring kit for the fan. The Hollister Road Company

I need to dig in now an see how the ECU controls fans. If it doesn't I'll just get the sensors and call it a day.
 
LOL. The instructions have pics.

No, I'm doing it in my driveway. Your welcome to come over. Once the rebuild kit comes in and Edwin rebuilds my tcase, the game will be a foot.

Thanks. I am interested in seeing how much pain is involved. I've been dreaming of a diesel swap ...
 
Added a section in post #1 consolidating parts and references.
 
FYI on the TT Supra pump..
On my superchager installation on my 94 I kept the stock pump at first. Had lack of performance issues running at lower voltage so I bypassed the relay and ran it at full 12V. That worked fine around town for several months. Took a long trip and after an hour started having stumbling problems. Put the relay back in and took it easy on the trip without further problems. I decided to replace the original pump with the TT Supra pump. It did not like the lower voltage at all and was undriveable. I bypassed the relay again it it ran OK but I didn't get enough pressure to keep up completely with my adjustable fuel pressure regulator. On long trips there are no issues. The intake sock filter did not fit as well on the TT Supra pump and I had to make minor changes to the wiring.

Next time I will be going with the Walbro even if its true that it makes more noise.

That's odd. The supra pump is designed to run on a 9v/12v switch. Under low demand/throttle it runs 9v to reduce wear and temp, then switches to full 12v at higher throttle position.

Also, be careful with the Walbro pumps. Over half of them out there are made in China and have a high failure rate. Be sure you buy a real deal pump from a reputable shop.
 
Got some work done today. Hopefully the rebuild kit for my tcase will be in this week and I start next weekend installing the engine.

I plan on using my stock air box with the new motor, so I cut off the flange and painted it.

Mounted the new fan inside the stock shroud. Almost perfect fit. I plan on later redoing this with some aluminum.

Modified the stock shifter so the throw arm is on the other side. Plan on getting a Lokar shift linkage to the tranny.

Was going to pull the hubs off some FJ60 knuckles I have but the cone washers would not come out. So instead of beating up the hubs, I'm going to save those from my 40 and buy some new ones.

Compared some FJ60 axle flanges to the 80 flanges and the front ones match.
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fan controls

Found a wiring kit for the fan. The Hollister Road Company

I need to dig in now an see how the ECU controls fans. If it doesn't I'll just get the sensors and call it a day.



Hey, great build. I'm subscribed.

On the fans it IS possible to get the PCM to control it... the thing to keep in mind is that Taurus fan set-up (if it's the legendary Taurus fan that the hot rodders love so much) pulls a LOT of current. It has to in order to move the air so well. We used it on our 357i Wagon project (Corvette LS6 motor) in vanilla grocery-getter BMW wagon... and the fan works great. It just draws so much current that the usual wimpy 30A relays and interconnects weren't up to reliable operation in the heat (we hit 105 in the desert up here a lot in the summers). So between the issues of getting the PCM to turn on at the right temps and blowing relays and overloading fusible links I ended up punting and went 'industrial grade'.

Being in the electronic power supply business, we ended up sourcing some industrial grade relays and using them with the Perma-Cool thermal controller (Summit or JEGS). Haven't had a lick of issue with it since. PM if you run into the same issues on the cooling fan. We ended up concluding that the PCM-stock relay approach wasn't going to hack it.

If you are lifted, you may not see the same forward-shaft interference issue Wayne did, but I'll post details on that over on his thread as there is a work-around.

Looks like a great combo... nice build.

TT
 

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