is that who you're gonna use?
Builds Another Texas LS1 Swap
- Thread starter warpdriv
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is that who you're gonna use?
- Thread starter
- #62
Not sure. I have not talked to them yet. I first need to know what engine/tranny I'm getting. Still no news on that. I got my windshield wiper bottle relocation kit from Slee and going to put that on this weekend.
I'm also on the fence of running my own fuel pump. From what I read the LC FP runs 42psi but it is also wired for 2 speed. It may work for normal driving but I'm not sure about WOT. I'm thinking just run it as is, then I can mod it later.
I'm also on the fence of running my own fuel pump. From what I read the LC FP runs 42psi but it is also wired for 2 speed. It may work for normal driving but I'm not sure about WOT. I'm thinking just run it as is, then I can mod it later.
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Again, second (first in an 93 RX7 LS1) time I've done this, but what I'm doing with the 5.3 is running an external fuel pressure regulator, and placing the return line before the fuel rail to keep a constant 58psi. The fuel will pass through the regulator. I've used this one with great success on other projects, and it's a good bang for the buck regulator (tuners will note that is inexpensive for being able to regulate 100psi) not that you need to on this project.
Mallory Ignition 4305M - Mallory Universal Fuel Pressure Regulators for Fuel Injection - Overview - SummitRacing.com
I will not use the manifold correction, as the computer already compensates for that in the calibration. I am going to need to jumper the low volt setting and if I have to, run a trigger wire to the GM computer to fire off the fuel pump. I happen to have a factory turbo Supra fuel pump in my tool box I'm going to use, hopefully it will just drop in. A walbro is fine for us also.
Using the external regulator will be the only way to go because the GM was a returnless system and the LC isn't.
Mallory Ignition 4305M - Mallory Universal Fuel Pressure Regulators for Fuel Injection - Overview - SummitRacing.com
I will not use the manifold correction, as the computer already compensates for that in the calibration. I am going to need to jumper the low volt setting and if I have to, run a trigger wire to the GM computer to fire off the fuel pump. I happen to have a factory turbo Supra fuel pump in my tool box I'm going to use, hopefully it will just drop in. A walbro is fine for us also.
Using the external regulator will be the only way to go because the GM was a returnless system and the LC isn't.
- Thread starter
- #64
Wiper Bottle
Relocated the Wiper Bottle today I got from Slee (Slee - Battery Related Products). Since I have removed the cruise control because I'm going with DRW (drive by wire) and I'm going to have to splice in the A/C wiring, I was able to de/loom the pump wires and just move them.
Relocated the Wiper Bottle today I got from Slee (Slee - Battery Related Products). Since I have removed the cruise control because I'm going with DRW (drive by wire) and I'm going to have to splice in the A/C wiring, I was able to de/loom the pump wires and just move them.
- Thread starter
- #65
Adapters came in today. Our club gets discounts through 4 Wheel Parts so that's where I got them from.
how are the motor mounts suppose to look in the engine and frame rail. also how much were the mounts? and do they come with measurements on where to weld them?
- Thread starter
- #67
Look at post 71 and you'll get the idea. https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/399302-v8-swap-project-begins-again-ls2-4.html
Here is the price on the mounts: 713088 | Engine & Transmission Conversion Adapters - Advance Adapters
No, with with my conversion, I will need to do some mock up work with it all in there and measuring it all out.
Here is the price on the mounts: 713088 | Engine & Transmission Conversion Adapters - Advance Adapters
No, with with my conversion, I will need to do some mock up work with it all in there and measuring it all out.
thanks again. i am going to pick those mounts up. to save time.
they seem to be a good price.
i would like to see how look when your done.
i have decided to go with 5.3 and tranny because it will end up alot easier on the wallet and i only plan on towing a car or a small tandem trailer on road.
they seem to be a good price.
i would like to see how look when your done.
i have decided to go with 5.3 and tranny because it will end up alot easier on the wallet and i only plan on towing a car or a small tandem trailer on road.
- Thread starter
- #69
Cool! Looking forward to your build thread.
One comment I have on the A/A mounts. From what I learned on making mine and comparing those to mine I really think the passenger side mount will have issue with the hooker headers. If not it will be super close and you may need a heat shield to protect the rubber. on my mounts I had to straddle the front bolt of the 4 bolt pattern. So the center of my mounts are apx 2-3 inches further forward than these. I will have pics of mine up soon. one more revision and then I am welding them in.
Have you made a header choice yet?
Kirk
Have you made a header choice yet?
Kirk
- Thread starter
- #71
Hi Kirk, thank you for the tip. No, I have not. I was going to wait until I got my engine and tranny first and see how the mock up would look.
Why did you not use your rear dump manifolds?
Why did you not use your rear dump manifolds?
I really didnt try. The rear dumps did not work on the LT1 project. With the LS2 I went to summit racing(15mins from home) and bought 4 sets of ls2 headers. It is great bc I can try them all find the best and then use their no questions asked return policy to take the back. I found the hooker super comps were the best fit. They dump right about the centerline of the #6 spark plug.
Another tidbit, the 80 series engine/tranny centerline is not in the center of the frame. it is offset to the driver side about 1 inch. So I decided on my past LT1 and this ls2 to put the front pulley of the engine in the dead center of the frame rails. I did not move the t/c back to center so the centerline is actually skewed to the back and the t/c is exactle the same as factory. So on the A/A motor mounts they will be about 1" longer on the pass side than the driver to center the front of the motor. It gets really funky b/c all the angles and elevations, I laser cut 2 sets to get it right. The 3rd time is the charm
Kirk
Another tidbit, the 80 series engine/tranny centerline is not in the center of the frame. it is offset to the driver side about 1 inch. So I decided on my past LT1 and this ls2 to put the front pulley of the engine in the dead center of the frame rails. I did not move the t/c back to center so the centerline is actually skewed to the back and the t/c is exactle the same as factory. So on the A/A motor mounts they will be about 1" longer on the pass side than the driver to center the front of the motor. It gets really funky b/c all the angles and elevations, I laser cut 2 sets to get it right. The 3rd time is the charm
Kirk
- Thread starter
- #73
So after a couple of months of A LOT of frustration, I sourced an engine and tranny. Dealing with the salvage yards was a big PITA. Emails were not answered and they would just tell me to call back.
Well leave it to a Mud'r to hook me up! Paul, pzary3233, works a Tri State Salvage. Instead of waiting for a truck to come in, they actually went out a bought one that had 40k miles. This all took 2 weeks. Everything will at my friends shop, Land Cruiser Specialist, on Tuesday. I got engine with all accessories, tranny, wiring harness, throttle pedal, throttle controller, exhaust down to the y pipe (includes the cats and O2 sensors), air box and tubing. It also comes with a 30 day start up warranty. Shipped for $2,500! If your looking for anything, I'd recommend you call Paul to see if he can hook you up, 1-866-781-0792.
Next on the list, wiring harness.
Well leave it to a Mud'r to hook me up! Paul, pzary3233, works a Tri State Salvage. Instead of waiting for a truck to come in, they actually went out a bought one that had 40k miles. This all took 2 weeks. Everything will at my friends shop, Land Cruiser Specialist, on Tuesday. I got engine with all accessories, tranny, wiring harness, throttle pedal, throttle controller, exhaust down to the y pipe (includes the cats and O2 sensors), air box and tubing. It also comes with a 30 day start up warranty. Shipped for $2,500! If your looking for anything, I'd recommend you call Paul to see if he can hook you up, 1-866-781-0792.
Next on the list, wiring harness.
Texican
s-Moderator
Reckon Edwin is smart enuff to do this?
Has he got someone there that can read?
make sure this statement gets back to him
Has he got someone there that can read?
make sure this statement gets back to him
- Thread starter
- #75
LOL!!! I'll alert him to your level of confidence. They can only ship it to a business. So I arranged it with him. I'm going to pick up and bring it home.
I also talked to Willy at Fuel Injection Specialties for about 15 minutes about the project. Nice person. He had some concern about the Toyota ECU changing the voltage to the gauge cluster.
I also talked to Willy at Fuel Injection Specialties for about 15 minutes about the project. Nice person. He had some concern about the Toyota ECU changing the voltage to the gauge cluster.
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Butch that's some funny stuff made me LOL also. i have been working on my reading and i think it's helping.
any how have to get back at it hope things are going well with you and your family. see you soon.
Edwin
any how have to get back at it hope things are going well with you and your family. see you soon.
Edwin
- Thread starter
- #77
Engine/tranny came in today at my friend's shop. He said it looks clean. He also said all the split case rebuild kits are on back order. He deals with several vendors. Some of the vendors said the kits are at customs. I'll post up some pics when I go get it. Again, thanks to Paul at Tri State for finding me this.
I also had a great conversion with Jon at PSI Conversion. He said if I want the factory gauges to work it will need to use the sending units from the toyota engine. Since I'm running the Ultragauge, I don't think I'll be going that route.
I've decided to go with my own fuel pump. The FZJ80 fuel pump is 2 speed, 6v normal, 12v WOT. I'm concerned if I wire it 12v all the time, it will burn out. I just put in a OEM fuel pump several months ago too. So if anyone needs a pump, PM me with an offer.
Here is a quick list of things I will need to do to get this running:
AC lines
PS lines
Camaro Oil pan
Induction Plumbing
Fuel Pump and Plumbing
FJ60 tranny cross member
Cooling fans
Exhaust system
Battery Try
Other stuff...
Extra homework:
Cruise control
For drive shafts I may not need any mods. From what I'm told, I can take the slip yoke from a 60 DS and put it in an 80 DS. I have not tried it yet. It works and the thickness of the 60 tcase is the same as the 80, I'm home free. If not, a quick trip to get them re-tubed will be in order.
Time to get busy!!!
I also had a great conversion with Jon at PSI Conversion. He said if I want the factory gauges to work it will need to use the sending units from the toyota engine. Since I'm running the Ultragauge, I don't think I'll be going that route.
I've decided to go with my own fuel pump. The FZJ80 fuel pump is 2 speed, 6v normal, 12v WOT. I'm concerned if I wire it 12v all the time, it will burn out. I just put in a OEM fuel pump several months ago too. So if anyone needs a pump, PM me with an offer.
Here is a quick list of things I will need to do to get this running:
AC lines
PS lines
Camaro Oil pan
Induction Plumbing
Fuel Pump and Plumbing
FJ60 tranny cross member
Cooling fans
Exhaust system
Battery Try
Other stuff...
Extra homework:
Cruise control
For drive shafts I may not need any mods. From what I'm told, I can take the slip yoke from a 60 DS and put it in an 80 DS. I have not tried it yet. It works and the thickness of the 60 tcase is the same as the 80, I'm home free. If not, a quick trip to get them re-tubed will be in order.
Time to get busy!!!
DUDE!!!!!!!!!
Check this out. I don't know how he's doing it NEW for 500 bucks but here it goes.
psiconversion
I'm debating. HMMMMM. Maybe we could give him a few specifics and he can do a custom harness for the Land cruiser guys? HMMM.
I bet it would be about the same price. I think next week I'll start looking for the connectors that Toyota uses for power and ground and such; in hopes of actually PLUGGING GM harness into the TOYOTA one without cutting splicing etc. It's far reaching, but you never know if you don't look right? Can't forget we need to get the cruise switch data over to the GM ecu so it knows whats going on. DBW cruise control.
It's funny, as soon as I saw this thread I was going to recommend PSI.
As far as making their harness "Plug and Play", it is relatively unnecessary. The harness is designed to be completely modular, it includes all needed relays, fuses, etc. pre-wired into the harness. You literally plug everything into the motor, hook up power and ground, and off you go. There are outputs on the harness for speedo, tach, etc... but even if the harness plugged into the Toyota connectors, the GM signals likely won't talk to the Toy gauges anyway.
If you have more specific questions let me know, I see PSI's owner everyday and can get answers for you. Their harness is designed to make these conversions as simple as possible.
Texican
s-Moderator
Call Georg @ Valley Hybrids, he will have that kit...........and prices are great, I just got an 80 Knuckle kit from him with Koyo brgs for $100
I have been really really busy, but have worked on the wiring on mine. I was right though, it would be rather easy to just put an extension harness from the trans to the two connectors that are near the ecu. That and (off top of head) the a/c or alternator. I remember seeing something regarding a head light too... Can someone look at that also and verify?
Sorry my time has been quenched since coming aboard full time at T1. I should have been done with this by now. I love reading your threads! It's keeping my fire alive!!! I'll talk to the boss, but I'm pretty sure I'd love to see your swap up here to put it on the new AWD dyno!!! There's a few down by you though.
The 12v bypass should not hurt a fuel pump, I just don't know what the stock pump will support. Walbro all the way if there's a doubt. Or a TT Supra pump.
What are you installing??
OH, I just saw a 5.3 with cam, springs, supposedly stock heads, custom exhaust and custom intake lay down 350 at the wheels in a truck yesterday..
That's inspiration.
Sorry my time has been quenched since coming aboard full time at T1. I should have been done with this by now. I love reading your threads! It's keeping my fire alive!!! I'll talk to the boss, but I'm pretty sure I'd love to see your swap up here to put it on the new AWD dyno!!! There's a few down by you though.
The 12v bypass should not hurt a fuel pump, I just don't know what the stock pump will support. Walbro all the way if there's a doubt. Or a TT Supra pump.
What are you installing??
OH, I just saw a 5.3 with cam, springs, supposedly stock heads, custom exhaust and custom intake lay down 350 at the wheels in a truck yesterday..
That's inspiration.
