another shop project. (1 Viewer)

[fourtrax]

well finally getting to start on a shop. Been bouncing different ideas around and while I would like to do a stick built it is just too much for what i want. So I am looking at a Metal building. kind of limited by the way the property is laid out but, I think I can fit a 28' x 40' x14' building ( as long as the Harnett county doesn't have an issue). been looking at several ideas/vendors but, kind of leaning towards Southeastern building products. I like the fact they they use a 2x3" box and all the trusses are welded. Plus I have looked at a few building they have done in the area and they all look sound. so far the biggest obstacle is finding a concrete contractor to do the foundation / slab, no one has yet to call me back. maybe i am just not looking in the right place. i'll post up some more later .

Just going to have one door on each side. I want a panel door instead of a roll up and the biggest door SBP will do is 10x10. the front and rear would be a mirror. this would give me the ability to open both side and move some air through the building.

research list:
insulation options for the building.
2 post lift ( thinking asymmetrical style) 9-10k range
radiant floor heating
roll up bug screens for when the garage doors are open ( is it me or have the gnats/no-see-ems have been brutal this year).

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Can you get asymmetric lifts in 10k capacity?

Why panel doors specifically?

Can't wait to see it.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Bendpak makes an asymmetrical 10k. XPR-10as.

Love the screen idea!

 

[fourtrax]

they don't offer an insulated roll up door. with a panel door i could incorporate a screen like this. Lifestyle Screens

suppose i could pass on their door and find a commercial roll up but, then what kind of issue will i run into with the dimensions and extra costs. a panel door just seemed like less maintenance and easier to install an opener on if i decided to go that route.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

If you have the ceiling space overhead, no reason not to go with a panel door, but you can get jackshaft openers for roll-up doors just like panel doors.

Insulated roll-up doors are a thing:

Insulated Doors for Business & Commercial Use | Cornell Iron

Discover Cornell Iron's range of insulated doors designed for energy efficiency. Explore our selection of durable and high-quality insulated doors today!

www.cornelliron.com

10x10 is plenty of door imo.

 

[Green Hell Mustang]

well finally getting to start on a shop. Been bouncing different ideas around and while I would like to do a stick built it is just too much for what i want. So I am looking at a Metal building. kind of limited by the way the property is laid out but, I think I can fit a 28' x 40' x14' building ( as long as the Harnett county doesn't have an issue). been looking at several ideas/vendors but, kind of leaning towards Southeastern building products. I like the fact they they use a 2x3" box and all the trusses are welded. Plus I have looked at a few building they have done in the area and they all look sound. so far the biggest obstacle is finding a concrete contractor to do the foundation / slab, no one has yet to call me back. maybe i am just not looking in the right place. i'll post up some more later .

Just going to have one door on each side. I want a panel door instead of a roll up and the biggest door SBP will do is 10x10. the front and rear would be a mirror. this would give me the ability to open both side and move some air through the building.

research list:
insulation options for the building.
2 post lift ( thinking asymmetrical style) 9-10k range
radiant floor heating
roll up bug screens for when the garage doors are open ( is it me or have the gnats/no-see-ems have been brutal this year).

View attachment 2079439

This is going to be a sweet space. Can't wait to see how it progresses. Post up who you end up going with for the concrete foundation, when they do call you back. I'm curious about it too since I'll eventually have to cross that bridge for building anything in our backyard.

You should post this to Garage Journal too.

 

[fourtrax]

OK, finally got my permit from the county today. Time to get started digging, more to come....

 

[NCFJ]

Congrats Eric, always a banner day having that permit in hand. Looking forward to see it built.

 

[fourtrax]

9AM today vs 4:30

 

[fourtrax]

I think we're ready, get to talk to the inspector tomorrow. The PEX will be here tomorrow and plan on getting it all laid out on the wire screen this weekend and hopefully pour Monday.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

How thick above the foam? 4"?

 

[fourtrax]

How thick above the foam? 4"?

4" except where the lift will go, 6" there.
Passed inspection, ready to pour Monday morning.

now I got Saturday and Sunday to get the pex installed .

 

[JohnVee]

now I got Saturday and Sunday to get the pex installed .

Heated floor? Please say heated floor.

 

[fourtrax]

yes, heated floor.

 

[jamesurq]

Dammit. I figured you were putting in a hockey rink.

 

[fourtrax]

ok, as for the radiant floor heat layout. I have read through a bunch of stuff watched many videos and tried to take the operational use of the garage and decided to go with a partially insulated floor or "heat sink" design. You can get some ideas from the internet on how to best layout your heating system. I think that the heat sink will give me a little more flexibility in the summer months as it would take longer for the slab to heat up as it can pull cooler temps from the dirt below.

This will be an all electric system with about 1140 sq feet of mostly 4" thick concrete. the outer vertical insulation on the foundation wall is 2" thick with the foil facing the concrete to reflect the heat back into concrete. the next 4' along the inner perimeter will be 2" thick, again foil side facing concrete. the next 4' inner perimeter will be 1" thick ( didn't find any foil faced Styrofoam locally. the remaining inner part of the slab will not have any insulation thus acting as a heat sink. It might take a little longer to heat up but, i think i will be thankful in the summer when again it will take a little longer to heat up.

I thought about using electric radiant heat but, it was a little more expensive and the worry that a small electrical issue would disable the system.

For the Pex B and manifold i ordered an RHT-KIT-4x300-B kit just so i could get something in the form to get the cement poured . I still haven't ordered the mechanical part of the system, still shopping around. so far this seems like a good candidate for a heat source Hydro-shark 3 10KW

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Tankless water heater as the heat source?

I like the "heat sink" slab design. I hadn't heard of that before.

 

[jynx]

Shops are fun. We just finished a 40x60. I am looking at a 10kAS for ours as well.

How are you going to finish out the interior walls? We are at the figure out how to finish interior and getting electricity sorted stage. Ours is a pole barn style, so I am thinking of doing studs 2' OC and using batt for insulation and then sheeting with 5/8" OSB. I'd love to spray foam, but cost prohibitive. Are you looking at any other heating or cooling other than the radiant floor system?

 

[jfz80]

Both you guys would make excellent neighbors

 

[fourtrax]

some info/ideas for heat:

HydroShark® Modular Panel System for Radiant Floor Heating | Stiebel Eltron USA

HydroShark radiant heat panels are a professional, modular system designed to make radiant floor installation simple, reliable, and easy.

www.stiebel-eltron-usa.com

the building will have a 2" x 3" frame. I really didn't like the options or price the manufacture had so i opted to just have them insulate the ceiling and i would do the walls. haven't really got a solution picked out yet. still trying to decided if i want to insulate and then cover the walls with something ( i will be grinding and welding ) and then run conduits for air/electric.
or
run the conduits then insulate around them.