another real time help thread oil pan

[antFJ]

skip the third paragraph if you don't want a story
I'm trying to install my new toyota oil pan from CCOT (i bought it last winter and went to install it but fxxxed it up... it got dark and i was having a bitch of a time getting the bolts to line up and thread into the engine

soooo here i am over 6 months later after i was away at school.. i've cleaned it all up again and got the long studs for each corner to guide the pan up evenly.

i went to test to see how everything was going to work out and the pan seems to be out of wack.. i measured against my old pan and the rear and front holes should both be 7 5/8'' apart (on center). on the new pan the front are that distance but the rear holes are 8'' apart.. its 3/8'' out of alignment. this makes sense because i was having a wicked hard time getting bolts in when i tried it in the winter... also the pan doesn't look like there is anything wrong with it.

what can i do to get the thing back into alignment without messing anything else up?

thanks,
ant

 

[Hugh Heifer]

I would weld the holes closed on the pan and redrill them in the correct place, but I am guessing you may not have access to a welder. Maybe redrill the holes and cut down some fender washers to fit in the channel the bolt heads live in?

Is the pan OEM or aftermarket or what? Seems strange it would not fit if it was OEM.

 

[antFJ]

nope its OEM

it seems like its bent not that it was manufactured wrong.. sitting around i thought about taking two 2x4s on either side and clamping down on them until everything is the right dimensions.. time to hunt down some clamps

 

[antFJ]

alright so you guys probably think im crazy.. i fixed it.

two $12 clamps from home depot and two dirty 2''x4''s wrapped in towls... clamped it down tight 1/8'' past the right measurement took the clamps off.. and then repeated until it finally held the right shape. everything is flat and it looks good - now time to put on the gasket

 

[splitshot]

Gaskets will be the true test. I've had a buggar of a time with some keeping the leaks at check.

Such a clean job, I wouldn't settle for anything but perfect.

 

[LXCRSR]

splitshot,

Do you recommend the OEM gaskets? Any others?

Got any helpful hints at installing so that there are no leaks the first time it is installed?

Tom

 

[35inchoverdrive]

splitshot,

Do you recommend the OEM gaskets? Any others?

Got any helpful hints at installing so that there are no leaks the first time it is installed?

Tom

I've used the Felpro gasket on several different Cruisers with success. I'm sure the OEM stuff is good too. There aren't really any magic tricks to a leak-free gasket. Sometimes, those 4 piece cork ones can be a bear.

 

[splitshot]

splitshot,

Do you recommend the OEM gaskets? Any others?

Got any helpful hints at installing so that there are no leaks the first time it is installed?

Tom

OEM or (if they still even make them, Felpro). I had problems with warped pans, and caved in screw holes (trick is to flatten out the area around the screw holes), and one with small cracks in the rear were it sealed in the back.
Make sure everything is perfectly clean, and use a good quality sealant.
Hopefully someone will add to this..I.E best sealant recommends?

 

[MtnTrucker]

If you dont want to deal with the 4 piece gasket, the part number for the Toyota 1 piece gasket is
12151-61010.

Isthat oil filter mount stock, if so what year is it for? I'm trying to find one of those units with the oil pressure port on it.

 

[LXCRSR]

MtnTrucker,

Thanks for the part number for the one piece from Toyota. I have a four piece cork Fel-Pro gasket. I saw some tacky gasket sealer at NAPA the other day. I may pick that up and see if it helps installation any.

Tom

 

[antFJ]

OOPS

i was all good to go everything was going perfectly... of course we live in a country where on the bottom of the page they write in ft-lbs and at the top of the page they write in in-lbs... yupp that's right i sheared a bolt off in the block! i kept thinking to myself man this is way to tight somethings got to be wrong but i kept going! a good 1/4'' of the bolt is sticking out so i should be okay but man i'm pissed i have to buy a new gasket and all new bolts too!

so whats the real range of torque settings... like 5-8 ft-lbs??? sweet.

I use the black sealant from toyota they knew what i wanted when i asked for oil pan sealant.

 

[antFJ]

If you dont want to deal with the 4 piece gasket, the part number for the Toyota 1 piece gasket is
12151-61010.

Isthat oil filter mount stock, if so what year is it for? I'm trying to find one of those units with the oil pressure port on it.

i assume its stock it is from a 1978 2F engine but im almost positive my '76 2F has one as well.. PM me if you want it i can take it off tomorrow.

 

[bsmith123]

string

I tore my first Gasket trying to put the bolts in then Poser reminded me of a trick I had forgot but I am sure I had done it before years back---tie the gasket to line up to the holes with some string---once all the bolts are in cut the string

The studs are a great idea but some extra long bolts will do and help or even a patient helper!

Take care lining up the front and rear (the U areas) to make sure you get in the groove I used sealant here and at the corners --the rest of the gasket should be good without sealant

If the bolts are in tight you can spray penetrant from the top and let it work down the threads

Glad you got yours in okay

 

[amaurer]

The torque specs for the pan are hard to achieve, IMO. With a cork gasket I tighten until there is good contact all around, and then 1/2 turn more. No leaks.

 

[antFJ]

deal. exactly what i needed to know. the gasket looks fine so im going to try it again tomorrow

 

[MtnTrucker]

That would be great! I'll send you a PM.

I used a torque setting of 7 ft-lbs. With a cork gasket I tighten slowly until I get the click. Go all the way around following the proper tightening sequence. I wait an hour or two for the goo to set up then hit them all again.

 

[antFJ]

ahh one more thing.. this engine probably won't be running for a while still... should i wait to put the oil in or does it not matter.. i would rather get it in now to see if there are any leaks...

 

[Fast Eddy]

I only use sealant on the front and rear curved sections to just past the first bolt hole on the flat sections; none on the rest of the flat sections.

I used the string method once, but the last time I used sealant on the pan side and bolted it to another 2f block I have, let it set up, then removed it in one piece, sealed the block side and bolted it up. It worked spectacularly.

 

[Coolerman]

I'd put the oil in it just so months from now you don't try to start it thinking you did put oil in it!

 

[Blue77FJ40]

I have a writeup on the pan install in the tech section that may help. Only lacking pics of the snap-ups.