Another FJ62 mud flap restoration (1 Viewer)

[WoodnotRust]

I envy those that have a decent set of mud flaps. If you don't, but want some for your 60-series then you'll either pay a ton of money or wind up getting a set that will need some TLC. Here's what's happening to me this week.

I just bought a set from @dnp for $445, which was discounted a bit from the going rate because "the bracket had fallen off one of the front flaps". I guess that should have been a clue regarding the condition of the whole set. Well, in for a nickel, in for a dime.

I like the method shown on the Mud flap restoration thread and think this is the way to go if flaps are not too far gone. The fronts I got were like Swiss cheese and most of the ugly is hidden below the rubber on the side where the bracket is attached. If you can see lots of rust and the bracket is loose, then be prepared to do the Stage 2 MF resto/mod. Using Stainless Steel is probably the best way to go as was done previously: 60/62 Mudflap Inner Metal Rust Question

This is my approach and I'll post more pic's and steps as I work:

Step 1: Remove heavy dirt and grease...asses the damage

Step 2: Remove loose brackets by grinding down rivet on bracket side and popping out with a punch

Step 3: Cut away the inside rubber on the bracket and reassess the damage. If it isn't too bad, the consider JB weld method from link above. If it looks like my picture, then it's time to buy the 22 gauge steel at Ace Hardware and go full tin smith on it.

Step 4: Template your replacement metal with paper, transfer to metal and cut with jig saw and/or tin snips. Hammer out curved edge as needed. Test fit until you are happy with the result.

OK...that's about as far as I got today...more tomorrow after I figure out what to do next. I just know it will involve holes and Plasti-dip.

 

[WoodnotRust]

Step 4: Template your replacement metal with paper, transfer to metal and cut with jig saw and/or tin snips. Hammer out curved edge as needed. Test fit until you are happy with the result.

OK...that's about as far as I got today...more tomorrow after I figure out what to do next. I just know it will involve holes and Plasti-dip.

 

[WoodnotRust]

oops

 

[WoodnotRust]

A few days later.... (wish I had permissions to edit my older posts).
Step 5: Treat rust as a two step process: Use a dissolver (wire brush and/or sandpaper, rinse and repeat as necessary), allow to dry thoroughly and then coat metal with a rust converter. Mask-off the visible rubber areas since the rust converter will need to be scraped-off anywhere it's not wanted. Let this dry several hours before coating with Plasti-dip

Step 6a: For flaps that don't require new metal, this is the last step before painting the metal brackets. Mask-off rubber so only the metal and inside rubber is exposed. Mask-off bracket. Pour a few ounces of Plasti-dip in a disposable container and thin with a thimble of Xylene (or other appropriate thinner). Coat metal liberally and rotate slowly so it gets back into the gaps. Let dry about 30-40 minutes and add second, third or fourth coats until the thickness is similar to the original. I pulled away the masking on the rubber and smoothed out the edge with my finger prior to my last coat. That way there was a smooth edge without a gap caused by pulling away the masking.

Step 6b: For badly rusted flaps you'll need to install your metal pieces that were cut and shaped to fit previously. Mark places where you can drill 1/8" or larger holes that are away from where you will later drill the mounting and bracket holes. I marked these holes on my paper template and then taped them to my metal piece and used an awl to mark a number of holes. This is how the OEM metal was incorporated into the mud flaps, so it seemed like a good idea.

Note: be sure to place washers on the outside before you brush-on Plasti-dip on the inside, I used two thin 3/16" washers where the brackets will mount and 3/8" washers for the larger mounting holes. On the inside, there were spots where the metal remained and also areas where it was completely gone around the mounting holes. Use JB weld to position a 3/8" stainless flat washer on the inside around the mounting hole to avoid having a gap below your new metal piece.

Test-fit your new metal piece and get clamps, sticks and wax paper ready before applying a liberal (almost overflowing) amount of Plasti-dip to the inside. Clamp metal piece in place and let dry overnight. Remove clamps the next day and check for adhesion and gaps, correct as necessary. I was lucky and my metal was fully adhered along its length.

Follow Step 6a for the flaps with the new metal pieces. You'll need at least 4-5 coats of Plasti-dip to fully cover and seal the new metal.

Step 7: For new metal only: Drill out 3/8" mounting holes and the 3/16" bracket holes from the outside using the previously seated washers as a guide. Be sure to clamp a piece of wood to hold the new metal in place while you drill the holes, otherwise you risk separating your new metal piece from the new rubber.

Step 8: Paint brackets with appropriate rust-inhibiting paint and/or primer. Just mask off rubber on the flaps where they are already attached.

Step 9: Re-attach brackets with 3/16" rivets. I used stainless "pop" rivets, but the original rivets looked like solid aluminum, so use whatever you are comfortable with here.

Final step: paint lettering with acrylic paint or decal according to the method of numerous other posts.

 

[WoodnotRust]

More pic's

 

[88Retired62]

Mr. Woodnot...I’d first characterize your refurbishment efforts as being a “Brute for Punishment“ but conclude my assessment by congratulating you on one of the most extensive and well thought out “flap restorations“ of all time. Knowing the condition of your patient before surgery actually multiples your effort into the stratosphere. At the moment and at the risk of the MUD monitor revoking my membership, I’m going to refrain from fully commenting on the outrageous parameters of your initial purchase, but the sale falls way beyond the bounds of “caveat emptor” or “mercatus pretium”....It‘s Best simply characterized as...”a damn shame”.

 

[WoodnotRust]

Yea...Mr. 88, Your comments are appropriate and I enjoyed the beauty of your prose.

I was deliberately frank about my purchase as a well meaning warning to those, like myself, who's over exuberance might get the better of them during the honeymoon phase of the restoration process. Let's say the "honeymoon phase" occurs during the first few weeks after you've made your list and perhaps purchased a few bits, but before the real money, work and time is well underway.

Besides the upfront cost, the 10's of hours I've invested on these flaps are only eclipsed by the time I spent looking for a better set online. At least I didn't buy those flaps that only fit trucks with fender flares.

Roger

PS...see picture below of the $1900 OEM "remanufactured" advertised on EBAY. I dare say mine will look as good in a few days now that I've hit them with primer and coated my new metal with the first coat of Plasti-dip.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Looking good!

 

[cruisermatt]

I feel like a dummy for throwing my perfect-condition mudflaps in the trash like everyone else a few years ago

 

[SteveH]

The OP should consider using tamper-proof fasteners to hold those flaps to his truck. Mortals could be tempted.

I wondered if anyone would ever offer a 'metal kit' of the replacement metal for 60-series flaps, but I see you just did it yourself using a world-class approach. Nice work and photos.

In case you thought Toyota were the only morons who would entomb mild steel inside rubber (for maximum rust potential), the mud flaps on my 2001 Nissan Pathfinder were designed the same way, headed toward the same result.

I do have a few rusted out flaps, and you have inspired me to consider rehabbing them the way you have. Wouldn't it be slick to use stainless steel for the metal (in spite of the agony of working with it)?

 

[staggrlee]

Wouldn't it be slick to use stainless steel for the metal (in spite of the agony of working with it)?

I used SS expanded metal mesh in mine. Just happened to have it on hand from some other project. Have to say OP's quality of work outdoes mine by a long shot though. Those look great.

 

[Samppahj]

Very nice work. I have thought by myself if it would be possible to change the metal inside. And now I see that it is possible. Have to do same with my flaps also.

 

[Spook50]

Very good work!

You'd think with the demand for mud flaps for the 60 series, there would be some sort of aftermarket for em.

@ToyotaMatt You're gonna get right on this right?

 

[WoodnotRust]

Update for handling the badly rusted mud flaps:: I am not happy with the adhesion of the metal to the underlying rubber/metal substrate using Plasti-dip as the bonding agent. This became apparent at the margin where the rubber "gapped" from the edge of the metal piece. I think this is due to poor curing of the rubber below the metal where it's sealed off from air. Maybe it takes more than 24 hrs where it is quite thick?

The solution is to remove all the metal and use Permabond TA4605 as an adhesive.

So...recommended changes are as follows for the badly rusted mud flaps:

1. Cut out ALL metal on the flat portion of the flap using dremel cutting tool. Be careful not to cut the rubber and avoid cutting too far back as it curves upward into the body of the mud flap. This will provide a uniform [flat] surface where you can glue the new metal piece.
2. Template and cut the new metal piece from your choice of metals. Leave the original perimeter rubber edge intact.
3. Position the new metal piece, verify fit and clamp the metal in place using wood on the inside to serve as a backing for the mounting (2) and bracket (2) holes. There is no need to drill multiple holes for the rubber to ooze through using this gluing method.
4. Flip over, punch the metal with an awl in the center of the washer holes, remove the washers and drill the holes (3/8" and 3/16"). Check for fit.
5. Glue in place with Permabond (or other methacrylate) adhesive and let dry for at least 8 hours. Note: you'll have 10-15 minutes to position the piece before it sets using this glue. It reaches max strength in 24 hours.
6. Brush 4-6 coats of Plasti-dip (thin a bit with Xylene) on the top of the metal until desired thickness is reached. Drill-out your rubber holes before applying the last coat.
7. Attach newly painted bracket with 3/16 rivets (be sure to put 1-2 stainless washers on the outer rubber "opposite side" of the bracket to support the rivet).

Sorry for being so sure of myself on my first attempt and hope I didn't lead anyone astray.

R

​

 

[WoodnotRust]

I noticed that one fo the flaps was badly "cupped" near the bottom. I didn't have a heat gun, but think this is the simpler solution regardless:

1. Pre-heat oven to 200 degrees
2. Place your mudflap on a cookie sheet covered with parchment paper - bake for 20 minutes or so (or until golden brown)
3. Press flat between two sheets of parchment paper with a piece of wood and some heavy weights (3-5 lbs should be enough).
4. Let cool about 1 hour

Worked for me.

 

[Jamieson22]

PS...see picture below of the $1900 OEM "remanufactured" advertised on EBAY. I dare say mine will look as good in a few days now that I've hit them with primer and coated my new metal with the first coat of Plasti-dip.

View attachment 2581394

Looking into giving my flaps a refresh. Find it funny those $1900 refurbs are STILL for sale on ebay. 1.5 years after you posted about them.