Another drawer build thread.... (1 Viewer)

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Bloomer

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Just past the middle of nowhere in South Texas
Realize there are many great drawer kits available for purchase (ARB, Trekboxx, KISS....) and more in development. The quality and design of these are amazing and I have to admit it was difficult to decide whether to just purchase one and install, or take on the task of building one myself. With the time and effort Trekboxx and KISS have put into designing their systems and the R&D/testing capability of ARB, there is no doubt the quality and finish of building myself will be nowhere near those listed above. Just read through the many threads here on IH8MUD and you'll see for yourself they are all amazing products.

With the exception of these drawers, all of the modifications to my 100 series have been purchased. Front and rear bumpers, sliders, suspension/shocks, roof rack, etc... Sure, it's all been installed in my garage and driveway at home and I've learned a lot (and saved some $$$) doing the installs myself. But, everything thus far has been unpacked from shipping boxes and bolted on. A drawer build seemed like a good opportunity to (at least try to) take on something that was not prebuilt and shipped to my door. For full transparency, I'll admit I have "0"/ZERO carpentry skills so have help from someone who can at least cut a straight line. And, I've done a ton of research on IH8MUD and have used many of the threads here for ideas on design and materials. There's also been a few friends and members here I've reached out to through PM while trying to decide whether to build or purchase and with questions on materials and build advice. Thank you to all who have directly or indirectly helped!!!

I've been collecting materials for and researching/designing the drawers over the past several months. I'm using 3/4" birch plywood wood and handles and slides from Allegis Corporation. The slides for the drawer and fridge are heavy duty 36" full extension lock-in/lock-out (these will be full length drawers encompassing the majority of rear cargo area of the land cruiser). I'm planning for a smaller drawer beneath the fridge slide using 30" full extension lock-in/lock-out slides. I'm still contemplating hinges for the sidewings. Will likely just source them from one of the big box stores, just haven't decided yet.

Basic prep for the cargo area prior to the build. Removed carpet and used it as a template to cut some Jute fabric. I had originally planned for a full sound deadening project prior to the build. I wasn't particularly unhappy with the noise level so just opted to reinstall the OEM carpet with a Jute overlay. Also didn't want to contend with any clearance issues with the drawers and thought the OEM carpet/padding and extra Jute would provide sufficient rise to clear the tail gate.

Here's a pic of the Jute installed.

IMG_3238.JPG


I have a general plan for the build but am to some extent making adjustments as we go. The height of the drawers was an interesting dilemma to start with. I wasn't sure if it would be best to set the height of the drawers to create a level sleeping platform with the second row of seats folded down, or allow for a taller set of drawers for more storage. I've only slept in a vehicle a few times when camping and never enjoyed it. As such, I opted for more storage.

Started the build last Sunday and feel like we made good progress for one full day of work. We're planning a second work day this coming weekend. Pic of progress thus far...

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With the exception of the main drawer, much of what you see above is set in for effect only. I'm trying to decide whether the fridge is set to high. I have a little room to lower the fridge and still fit a drawer beneath it that is useful. I thought about completely eliminating the drawer under the fridge. I'd really like to have the additional storage for smaller items that can possibly double as a food prep area. Any thoughts here would be appreciated.

I'm still contemplating how to secure the entire system in the cargo area. I've read many will use the 3rd row seat anchoring brackets with u-bolts. I'm considering using the 4 D-rings in the corners of the cargo area and securing the drawers with adjustable anchor bolts. Seems access to the D-rings if I ever need to remove the drawers will be easier than having to remove the drawers from the slides to access the seat brackets (drawer slides do not separate and I have to unbolt the drawer from the slide to access the area behind the drawer). Any thoughts here would also be appreciated.

I'm also planning for an insert to have a flat surface across the entire cargo area with the fridge removed (request from Mrs. Bloomer for family weekend trips that do not involve camping or any other outdoor activities in the land cruiser that she will not be attending....some of you that attended HiH4 will understand what I'm getting at). Still thinking through how to safely secure this insert so it doesn't become a dangerous flying object in the vehicle and how to keep from rattling.

I know there are many others here on the forum with more experience than me in building drawers. Any suggestions are appreciated.

More to come......
 
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Nice Job so far it looks good,
I'm in the planning stages and gathering materials... my needs are completely different... I work out of mine and it could be HVAC one day, Elevator repair the next, building a dumptruck driveshaft the next... I just want my basic tools with me out of sight... so I'm planning a shallow full extension drawer system that looking in from outside looks like the stock floor.. I've gathered some 6" and 8" aluminum C channel that I'll weld up for the basic box and some 11ga aluminum sheet that will be formed into drawers on full extension slides... a flat plywood carpeted top with a factory mat... in my case I end up with too much stuff in the back for each specific project I'm heading to... then can't find/get to my cordless impact, or hardware or multi meter or whatever... I've even planned a couple quick connect loops so I can lift the whole thing fully loaded out of the back with my forklift,
in the end I've followed most of these drawer build threads and I think you have to plan and build around your own needs.
 
I'm just like you, I like all the options, but I need something slightly different. I'm going to build them as two separate units that can be used independent of the other. For the fridge side, I think I have settled on putting it down low, and building a shelf over it, with a barrier in the middle and passenger side (similar to Trexxbox).
 
Same here,

Awesome things out there but din't find anything that quite fit my criteria exactly. I wanted something that can be easily removed but only take one seat on the third row. I'm very happy with how it turned out but honestly with all the trials and error R/D I spent close to or as much as the real deal but I would of not been happy if I wasn't able to easily remove the drawer.

I've had it for a while and since the first install I've rolled it off the truck with ease 4 times, really makes a difference to have wheels in the back, stands like a dolly in the garage when out of the truck, the legs are actually two heavy duty fence handles that help you walk it to a resting stop. Still weights quite a bit but once off the truck rolls just like a dolly.

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Same here,

Awesome things out there but din't find anything that quite fit my criteria exactly. I wanted something that can be easily removed but only take one seat on the third row. I'm very happy with how it turned out but honestly with all the trials and error R/D I spent close to or as much as the real deal but I would of not been happy if I wasn't able to easily remove the drawer.

I've had it for a while and since the first install I've rolled it off the truck with ease 4 times, really makes a difference to have wheels in the back, stands like a dolly in the garage when out of the truck, the legs are actually two heavy duty fence handles that help you walk it to a resting stop. Still weights quite a bit but once off the truck rolls just like a dolly.

View attachment 1367355

View attachment 1367356
Finally...

No bolt it to the truck, but totally safe and functional..

But why wood...? plywood is to make skateboard ramps, so heavy and overbuild...

Mine, well so far I have not cut the first tube. But is going to be build of 80-20 extrusion for the structure (if it was a box, the skin, will be the structure) then polycarbonate translucent panels like they use on solariums for the sides mounted on the slot's of the extrusion) is a dual layer material, extremely rigid but weights nothing..

For the bottom of the drawer I'm still looking for a phenolic honey comp that those not cost a $100 per square feet, the ones base on paper, no bueno with kiddo milk around, maybe tivex foam core, at the most I can use two 4mm ply with a foam core and tybond glue.

The idea, to make the system as light as possible, 3 to 1 at least (three times the load as the weight of the structure)

The heavy, clunky, infrequent use, dangerous stuff will go where they spare wheel seats under net the truck, inside pelican cases..
 
Finally...

No bolt it to the truck, but totally safe and functional..

But why wood...? plywood is to make skateboard ramps, so heavy and overbuild...

Mine, well so far I have not cut the first tube. But is going to be build of 80-20 extrusion for the structure (if it was a box, the skin, will be the structure) then polycarbonate translucent panels like they use on solariums for the sides mounted on the slot's of the extrusion) is a dual layer material, extremely rigid but weights nothing..

For the bottom of the drawer I'm still looking for a phenolic honey comp that those not cost a $100 per square feet, the ones base on paper, no bueno with kiddo milk around, maybe tivex foam core, at the most I can use two 4mm ply with a foam core and tybond glue.

The idea, to make the system as light as possible, 3 to 1 at least (three times the load as the weight of the structure)

The heavy, clunky, infrequent use, dangerous stuff will go where they spare wheel seats under net the truck, inside pelican cases..


I agree with you that plywood is over built this is also no gap birch so its expensive too. But I needed the ability to screw wherever I wanted for and wood is good with that. I have several dozen screws on this ply wood for the drawer, slide, anchors etc. Not sure you can do that with other materials.

Also believe it or not I initially built one out of T bar steel welded together structure then planned to do sheet metal like the ARB ones but all that went to scrap. Week wasted. This overall seemed like the best solution for me even though is a bit of an overkill.
 
I agree with you that plywood is over built this is also no gap birch so its expensive too. But I needed the ability to screw wherever I wanted for and wood is good with that. I have several dozen screws on this ply wood for the drawer, slide, anchors etc. Not sure you can do that with other materials.

Also believe it or not I initially built one out of T bar steel welded together structure then planned to do sheet metal like the ARB ones but all that went to scrap. Week wasted. This overall seemed like the best solution for me even though is a bit of an overkill.
When making "composite structures" (not just carbon fiber, but helm on bamboo, balsa on fiberglass, a cardboard box is a exelente example of a horror structure) you plan where the holes/mount/stress, etc are going to be and place aluminum inserts (cover on fiberglass, to prevent 'galvanic" electrical charging in between the carbon and the aluminum..)

Seriously looks like you are a great planer, so I do see any issues planning for the guessers...

Why such a empashis on light weight you may ask..

Well you are going to drop and lift that 'pod" Plenty of times so the less the mass the better..

Actually I'm studying, ambulance ''beds'' you know the ones that drop the legs with out shaking the paccient at all, but I'm afraid is just to much complexity even if is a cool trick..
 
Finally...

No bolt it to the truck, but totally safe and functional..

But why wood...? plywood is to make skateboard ramps, so heavy and overbuild...

Mine, well so far I have not cut the first tube. But is going to be build of 80-20 extrusion for the structure (if it was a box, the skin, will be the structure) then polycarbonate translucent panels like they use on solariums for the sides mounted on the slot's of the extrusion) is a dual layer material, extremely rigid but weights nothing..

For the bottom of the drawer I'm still looking for a phenolic honey comp that those not cost a $100 per square feet, the ones base on paper, no bueno with kiddo milk around, maybe tivex foam core, at the most I can use two 4mm ply with a foam core and tybond glue.

The idea, to make the system as light as possible, 3 to 1 at least (three times the load as the weight of the structure)

The heavy, clunky, infrequent use, dangerous stuff will go where they spare wheel seats under net the truck, inside pelican cases..

Look at the sign materials places they have a aluminum skin foam core material that is about 1/4 thick very stiff/strong and usually comes in colors... and it's like $100 for a 4x8 sheet cheaper if they have one that got dented...
 
Look at the sign materials places they have a aluminum skin foam core material that is about 1/4 thick very stiff/strong and usually comes in colors... and it's like $100 for a 4x8 sheet cheaper if they have one that got dented...
No idea, thanks for sharing the find, what you can do is to hole out the first two-three inches of the foam from the edges and replace it with wood so you can use bolts..

$100 is not so bad..


Specially honey comps weight nothing and they can be used as structural skins 9from ski's to airplanes, but foam core is also really good and much cheaper..

For example the whole shell of this truck is 2 inch tick foam core and only weight 700 pounds with out any metal inside..
pinhole%20camera%20040.jpg


Very, very rigid, quieter, insulated and much warmer than a metal shell
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I have a new respect for the individual vendors that build and sell these. There's a lot that goes into design of the drawers that I'll admit I didn't think of when planning. As mentioned initially, I am not a carpenter and have very little wood working skills. I can tell you with some certainty now, if I could go back and start over I would have been assembling a Trekboxx system over the past two work days rather than building these. They are turning out pretty nice, but have run into a few glitches I need to figure out.

Pics of current progress. Yes, you'll notice a resemblance to other builds here on IH8MUD (what's the saying, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery).

IMG_3286.JPG


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The glitches....so far....

The drawers turned out larger than I initially envisioned. They're a little larger than I would have preferred. Not necessarily a terrible problem to have.

While I would have preferred bolting the unit to the seat brackets, the design and need to remove for coating has swayed me to use adjustable anchor bolts and D rings in the cargo area corners. Not ideal, but think it will work fine.

I noticed after finishing up tonight the side wings hit the 2nd row seats when opening. I had the seats folded forward when building and just didn't think to check the clearance for the side wings.

Even though I checked for clearance, the drawer with the fridge drags on the tail gate. I'm hoping once I anchor the drawers I'll find my original measurements were correct and it's just the weight of the drawers causing the entire drawer system to angle forward from the weight of the drawer being extended.

Lock in/lock out fridge slide is not functioning properly - this probably frustrates me the most given the cost of the slides. The little mechanism on the side that locks the slide open does not make contact with the release mechanism. I have to reach around the side of the drawer and push the lock out mechanism in to make contact with the release so I can close the drawer. Here's a pic of the mechanism that appears to be loose and not making contact with the release.

IMG_3282.JPG



With the amount of work already spent assembling, I'm seriously dreading disassembly of the drawer system for coating. And, I'm a bit nervous about the fit and finish during reassembly after coating the entire unit.

Even with the few set backs, it's been an interesting project for sure.
 
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Looks great. Doesn't look like the slides I have but I had an issue with the lock out on mine. The company offered to send me another, but I ended up bending or hammer adjusting the obstruction.
 
Awesome work John, looks great! You may want to double check the alignment of the sliders, one side could be a smidgen ahead of the other and can cause the lock to goof off! Also, when you press the release, I noticed (not every time) it may release half way witch only lets you close the drawer to a point so if you press the release again it will go.
On the scraping tailgate, do what I did, I cut a 3/8 x 3/8 (or 1/2 if it's scraping bad) strip of plywood to go right under the edge of the drawers. I sent you the pic over messenger.

The glitches....so far....

The drawers turned out larger than I initially envisioned. They're a little larger than I would have preferred. Not necessarily a terrible problem to have.

While I would have preferred bolting the unit to the seat brackets, the design and need to remove for coating has swayed me to use adjustable anchor bolts and D rings in the cargo area corners. Not ideal, but think it will work fine.

I noticed after finishing up tonight the side wings hit the 2nd row seats when opening. I had the seats folded forward when building and just didn't think to check the clearance for the side wings.

Even though I checked for clearance, the drawer with the fridge drags on the tail gate. I'm hoping once I anchor the drawers I'll find my original measurements were correct and it's just the weight of the drawers causing the entire drawer system to angle forward from the weight of the drawer being extended.

Lock in/lock out fridge slide is not functioning properly - this probably frustrates me the most given the cost of the slides. The little mechanism on the side that locks the slide open does not make contact with the release mechanism. I have to reach around the side of the drawer and push the lock out mechanism in to make contact with the release so I can close the drawer. Here's a pic of the mechanism that appears to be loose and not making contact with the release.

View attachment 1368514


With the amount of work already spent assembling, I'm seriously dreading disassembly of the drawer system for coating. And, I'm a bit nervous about the fit and finish during reassembly after coating the entire unit.

Even with the few set backs, it's been an interesting project for sure.

Did you use T-nuts on those bolts securing the sliders or are they just screws?
 

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