Another custom arm thread :) sorta like Tools R us (1 Viewer)

[FJBen]

So in Tools R Us' kick ass custom arm thread, i really liked the extra flex he got out of the system and still keeping it relatively stock. Currently I have Slee Off-road arms and like where they put me driving wise. (ie caster, tracking, driveability.

I know others have gone/tested/testing the "poormans 3-link" so I though...WTF...i should try it.

My idea, (i'm sure not original) is for something like this.

A removable/reversible setup for trail riding, pinned for on road travel. using a hitch pin/cotter key up front. Pull that to create the poor-mans 3 link, then pulling the front most mount out as it is pinned into the arm. Then just put a rubber cap on the end to keep mud/water/crap/ from going into the arm. To me this seems like a great way to get that extra couple of inches of flex and not having anything hit on trail and still have the great on road stability.

here are the pics to better show what I'm saying. nevermind the HORRIFIC drawings as they were done in google sketch-up, and I'm not a 3d artist by anymeans.

tear it up...laugh...tell me to shuttup... thoughts?

The first pic is the normal slee arms, second modified arm.

 

[IBCRUSN]

I like the idea but what will be installed to keep the axle from rotating?

 

[FJBen]

I like the idea but what will be installed to keep the axle from rotating?

This would only be on one arm, aka the poor man's 3 link.

 

[IBCRUSN]

gotcha. For the amount of work involved why not use the rear mount, cut off the fronts and add a mount for the third link on top of the axle?

 

[PHAEDRUS]

I think the major reason would be for ability to do in ones garage and to be able to revert back to stock if needed. I like the idea ben but there is not anything that I can think of that you could use to secure the end without removing so much of the tube wall to reduce its trength. JMHO though please cut away and prove me wrong.
Dave

 

[cruiserdan]

I'm not sure there is enough room in between the bushings to do that. In addition the axle housing bracket would likely inhibit getting to a pin.

 

[CruisinGA]

cut of the front of the mounts, beef up the rest, and install an adjustable upper from one of the arms to the top of the axle.
Could be done in a single day.

 

[Nay]

tear it up...laugh...tell me to shuttup... thoughts?

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=90624&highlight=travel

 

[Tools R Us]

I think the biggest problem your going to have is the width of the bushing holders? Not much room to flex?

 

[FJBen]

;p just keep hashing away huh lol

A few more of my thoughts...


The arms are 2" tube/dom/etc...so there should be plenty of room to install some solid steel rod into the one end in a very snug fit, then slightly loose on the other end to pull out. I may be using the term "pinned" incorrectly. It would basically "snuggly" slide in and the front mount/hitch pin would then hold it in place.

There is around 7" between the centers on each bushing....which gives me a few inches of room for the cut and still allow the strength.

The only part where I'm unsure is where Tools is mentioning the bushings, "I" couldn't get the bushings to twist like I have seen others do so I'm wondering how much that is going to limit things.

Maybe at lunch I'll pull that front bolt and use a hitch pin to see how much/if any flex is gained on the ramp. If it barely changes then I'll prolly ditch the idea...if it seems to gain a chunk...i think I'll continue with the experiment.


btw: Nay, when are you coming over to 3-link the front???

 

[Walking Eagle]

I say 4 link it. Get some of the drop brackets that cause so much fuss. Weld them in place, then cut out the part that insets into where the arm origonally mounted. Put the stock arms in the drop bracket mount. Then make a second arm that goes from the stock mounting position to the axle. Then cut the front of the stock arm off. You're now 4 linked.

 

[PHAEDRUS]

Ben,
If the arm is just slip yoked then there is nothing holidng (on the split side) together, ie if on the road and the axle tries to rotate then it will pull apart, if it does this repeatedly it will yoke out and then you might as well have tools set up as the front link on the dropped side will not engage at all in keeping the axle from rotating.
Not sure if I am being clear here or not but I am trying.
Dave

 

[FJBen]

Ben,
If the arm is just slip yoked then there is nothing holidng (on the split side) together, ie if on the road and the axle tries to rotate then it will pull apart, if it does this repeatedly it will yoke out and then you might as well have tools set up as the front link on the dropped side will not engage at all in keeping the axle from rotating.
Not sure if I am being clear here or not but I am trying.
Dave

It will be pinned in by a "hitch pin" on the front mount, like this pic, the blue piece is the mount that is on the axle. gold thing is the pin. When the arm is slid in, the pin should hold it in place. Take the pin out, front arm mount comes out and now you are "quasi-3 linked"

 

[Tools R Us]

... Maybe at lunch I'll pull that front bolt and use a hitch pin to see how much/if any flex is gained on the ramp. If it barely changes then I'll prolly ditch the idea...if it seems to gain a chunk...i think I'll continue with the experiment.

That would be my plan, test and see what works? If it works why go to the trouble of making it removeable? Give it a test drive on the street with the bolt out and see how it is.

 

[Tapage]

It will be pinned in by a "hitch pin" on the front mount, like this pic, the blue piece is the mount that is on the axle. gold thing is the pin. When the arm is slid in, the pin should hold it in place. Take the pin out, front arm mount comes out and now you are "quasi-3 linked"

I thought is a great idea .. only one thought are the get dirty part .. under the Cruiser and axle to remove the front part of the arm ..

 

[fzj80kidpen]

Great idea.
So who is going to try it.
Next thing you will need is a soft top.
Oh yeah. 80 buggy-thingy softtop.
Now that is vendor material

 

[Walking Eagle]

You're now 4 linked.

like this....

 

[Tools R Us]

like this....

To make a 4-link work correctly you will need more mount/arm separation than that.

 

[Walking Eagle]

To make a 4-link work correctly you will need more mount/arm separation than that.

how much do you think I'm showing, and how much do you think is here:

 

[Bear80]

that's a pic of a 3 link.....

that's a good idea 'Eagle but the upper arms would need to angle in towards the center, which means the original mount would need to be modified. Seems to me it would work then right??