Builds another cummins swap thread/build thread (1 Viewer)

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So did the guy who looked at it have any reaction at all when he saw it?
 
So it looks like you guys have the original style intake horn ~3/4" taller than the revised low profile one I got?I'll post a pic of mine when I get home...
I wonder when I'll get the revised one? Probably in the mail with the reverse light wiring
 
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1429301184.897506.jpg


The back hole on this one is actually a notch now... So u can start the bolt first (or do the all thread trick gdtaco did with a nut on it) and then slide the piece into position.

I can't figure out his shipping problem?? If he has the parts... Just send em' right...?

I am now wondering if the intercooling piping needs to be shorter? I thinking there should be enough play in the connecting elbows...
 
the way he measured the piping it's meant to use without the grid heater, or grid heater and that shorter intake horn. so mines wrong and there's enough play to make it work.
Got my glowshift gauge sort of installed, got trans temp and boost working! Everything looks good, trans temp is good and boost is good. I'll drill and tap the manifold later. That gauge is awesome, its got everything you need to install, probes and even enough wiring for the probes, all you need is the power/ground/acc/lights, very easy and for $180! it's like a sore dick you just cant beat it!!! :zilla:
 

The boost sensor fit in an existing hole, had to file a bit off the pump/fitting.

Put the trans temp probe in a tee. Set it upside down so it doesn't get an air bubble trapped and cause weird readings. I'm not sure that's the right place but it's in the same line that the a442 has its idiot light sensor.
 
the way he measured the piping it's meant to use without the grid heater, or grid heater and that shorter intake horn. so mines wrong and there's enough play to make it work.
Got my glowshift gauge sort of installed, got trans temp and boost working! Everything looks good, trans temp is good and boost is good. I'll drill and tap the manifold later. That gauge is awesome, its got everything you need to install, probes and even enough wiring for the probes, all you need is the power/ground/acc/lights, very easy and for $180! it's like a sore dick you just cant beat it!!! :zilla:
Be careful drilling the manifold. There is a inner wall right in the center of the flat spot which looks like the best place to drill.
 
I agree it seems like you are not using the full rpm range. Not sure if it's right or wrong or not.
 
Is the 442 electronically shifted with a compushift? I say you need more rail pressure to firm up the shifts. Did the torque converter lock up at the end? Right as the video ended? Open the compushift manual and start reading. With the cummins torque you want to have it lock up at 45-50 and not unlock unless your at 99% of TPS. You want to make sure there is an off set for mph unlock also to keep it from going in and out. Lock at 50. Unlock at 45. Or less type of thing.

You might try lowering the shift points or the TPS. Wish I knew the compushift terms. There is a seating that increases those settings with more TPS input. With the diesel you can pretty much leave it with no off set.

I'll see if I can't get some info from turbophil but he is deep into race season right now and pretty tied up.
 
Yea I have the 343 so its a bit diffrent animal. My shifting was a bit lazy and slow and would shift like that. Last weekend I put in the trans go shift kit and increased the VB pressure. That helped a lot but was still shifting right at Max rpm. So I put in the 3200 rpm governer spring and it runs like a champ!
 

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