Another crank no start issue, need help! (1 Viewer)

Joined
Sep 9, 2020
Messages
13
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Denver, Colorado
Not present in OBD2.

Good to know, now I sound silly

If the spark plugs are wet then your problem is ignition. Does your 80 have the theft deterrent system under the driver seat? I believe those were called RS3000. This little unit has stumped more than a few members.
There is a rs300 under the seat, never had the original keys or fob, always unlocked the car with the spare key. Would this be able to cause a crank and no start? thought they cut signal to the starter? I'll rip it out tomorrow anyways, just to make sure. unplugging it from the box causes a no crank, have to go through and trace down the wiring. Mine has the glass breaker sensor if anyone wants it.

Have you verified whether or not there is spark?

There is spark, pulled the plugs and grounded them on the valve cover. they looked a little old so replaced all 6. still had spark when grounded, also have checked the cam and crank sensors, as well as the coil pack, looked inside the dizzy and its all clean and nice. tested the high tension cord and all of the plug wires. All were good.

So far, I've verified we have fuel. tested the EFI relay, Circuit opening relay, and fuel pump relay, all are good. tested the fuel pump, and it turns on and squeals like it used to, can feel pressure in the return line as well. tried turning the car over with the fuel pump jumped, and it wanted to fire over, sputtered a few times but wouldn't catch. This is better then just cranking. Tested the fuel pump resistor per the FSM, it says .7-.74 ohm's, my s***ty tester had it at .9 ohms. Don't think this is the issue as jumping the fuel pump would bypass that.

So, I have spark. I have the CEL light on when cranking, and I have fuel. The fusible link is new and connections were cleaned and tested. continuity was fine for all. Highly doubt my compression would've gone when the car was sitting, but what is the easiest way to verify mechanical timing?

Car has no stored codes and half a tank of fuel. One thing to note is when the engine is cranking the tach barely moves. never gets up off of the bottom where it rests when the car is off. Is this normal?
 
Joined
Mar 2, 2015
Messages
113
Location
Knoxville, TN
Does it sound normal when it starts? If the IAC is stuck closed it will sound funny when trying to start because basically it can’t suck air in. Have you tried cranking it with the gas pedal slightly pressed to allow air to bypass the IAC in case it’s stuck? Here’s a video describing what I’m saying:


Good to know, now I sound silly


There is a rs300 under the seat, never had the original keys or fob, always unlocked the car with the spare key. Would this be able to cause a crank and no start? thought they cut signal to the starter? I'll rip it out tomorrow anyways, just to make sure. unplugging it from the box causes a no crank, have to go through and trace down the wiring. Mine has the glass breaker sensor if anyone wants it.



There is spark, pulled the plugs and grounded them on the valve cover. they looked a little old so replaced all 6. still had spark when grounded, also have checked the cam and crank sensors, as well as the coil pack, looked inside the dizzy and its all clean and nice. tested the high tension cord and all of the plug wires. All were good.

So far, I've verified we have fuel. tested the EFI relay, Circuit opening relay, and fuel pump relay, all are good. tested the fuel pump, and it turns on and squeals like it used to, can feel pressure in the return line as well. tried turning the car over with the fuel pump jumped, and it wanted to fire over, sputtered a few times but wouldn't catch. This is better then just cranking. Tested the fuel pump resistor per the FSM, it says .7-.74 ohm's, my s***ty tester had it at .9 ohms. Don't think this is the issue as jumping the fuel pump would bypass that.

So, I have spark. I have the CEL light on when cranking, and I have fuel. The fusible link is new and connections were cleaned and tested. continuity was fine for all. Highly doubt my compression would've gone when the car was sitting, but what is the easiest way to verify mechanical timing?

Car has no stored codes and half a tank of fuel. One thing to note is when the engine is cranking the tach barely moves. never gets up off of the bottom where it rests when the car is off. Is this normal?
 

ppc

M Go Blue
Joined
Aug 18, 2003
Messages
3,331
Location
Nashville, TN
I'll rip it out tomorrow anyways, just to make sure. unplugging it from the box causes a no crank, have to go through and trace down the wiring.

You can remove the wiring harness relatively easy, but there are matching connectors that will need to be reconnected in the main wiring harness.

During startup the fuel pump resistor is not in the circuit. The fuel pump relay sends power directly to the pump during startup.
 
Joined
Sep 9, 2020
Messages
13
Location
Denver, Colorado
Does it sound normal when it starts? If the IAC is stuck closed it will sound funny when trying to start because basically it can’t suck air in. Have you tried cranking it with the gas pedal slightly pressed to allow air to bypass the IAC in case it’s stuck? Here’s a video describing what I’m saying:

I have tried that, just did it with the gas peddle instead of at the throttle body like the video, and nothing changed. I'll check compression tomorrow, but imagine it is fine. It sounds like it's cranking fine, like it always use to.
 
Joined
Mar 2, 2015
Messages
113
Location
Knoxville, TN
I have tried that, just did it with the gas peddle instead of at the throttle body like the video, and nothing changed. I'll check compression tomorrow, but imagine it is fine. It sounds like it's cranking fine, like it always use to.

Gotcha. Also in regards to your previous question. My tach doesn’t really lift off the bottom during starting.
 

baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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Battle Ground
Timing check and adjustment procedure is in the fsm. Is the distributor lock down bolt close to being centered in the adjustment slot?
 
Joined
Sep 9, 2020
Messages
13
Location
Denver, Colorado
Thanks for the info everyone! Figured out the issue this morning. Decided to double check a few things to make sure I didn't miss something easy. First thing I did when the car wouldn't start is check the fusible link, and the EFI and CO relays, also pulled the power window one to test it aswell (since they're all the same). Tested all 3 to the FSM, where you check for continuity of the contacts, then apply power and check for resistance bewteen the contacts. All came back fine so I assumed it was all good. Today I swapped the power window relay for the EFi and CO ones before tearing more into the car. Finally when I swapped the Circuit opening relay with the power window relay, it started up great! Re-tested the CO relay again, and it tests fine per the FSM o_O .Put the CO relay back for the power windows, and the power windows still work fine.
 

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