Another crank no start issue, need help! (1 Viewer)

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Sep 9, 2020
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Hey all,

Been a member on here for a while, never posted before. that's because my 96 fzj80 has been awesome and never left me stranded from 150k-240k. Except for now, was gone for a long weekend, came back to the cruiser and it would only crank and not start. Ran fine the last time I drove it, been doing some searching on here and haven't had any luck. Read the emergency no start write-up, can't find it anymore otherwise I'd link it.

The car cranks strong, tested all the fuses and relays. Has spark, tested all 6 spark plugs against the valve cover and put in fresh spark plugs. Dizzy cap and rotor are new(ish) and look fine, not wet on the inside and contacts look fine, the coil pack was tested and was fine.

Car has fuel, pulled off the return line from the regulator and did get fuel coming out. Spark plugs were wet as well, and smelled of fuel. When jumping the FP to B in the diagnostics box I didn't hear the fuel pump, but when jumped at the connector for the fuel pump it runs fine.

Car has the check engine light on when the key is in and when it's cranking. No codes are stored.

Here's the weird part, when I unplug the fuel pump connector and crank the car, it will sputter a little like it wants to turn over. As soon as the fuel pump is reconnected, it goes back to only cranking.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. What else should I look for? was hoping the car would have a code so I'd have some idea of what to look for.
 

enox

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Did you check the ignition fuse and relay? There’s one in the kick panel inside drivers side, there’s another in the fuse block under the hood.
 
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Did you check the ignition fuse and relay? There’s one in the kick panel inside drivers side, there’s another in the fuse block under the hood.

Sure did, checked the EFI relay and IGN relay, both were fine. The power window relay in the kick panel is the same as both of them. so swapped them around to double check and nothing changed. replaced the efi fuse, ign fuse and ecu-ig fuse too.
 
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also checked all the spark plug wires and they tested within spec. What sensors would cause the engine not to start. going to test the crank/cam shaft sensors today per the FSM.
 

enox

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Yeah but if it ran fine, then sat (how long was it sitting?) Then you came back and now no start...unless something was chewed through by a rodent that other stuff should be fine including all the stuff you have already replaced.

How long was it sitting?
 
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left on friday morning and came back sunday evening. tried starting it monday morning. wasn't sitting for more then 4 days. I looked around the engine bay and everything seemed to be fine.

Whats weird is it will crank over and fire when the fuel pump is disconnected for a second or two, then when the pump is connected it will crank and not catch.
 
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will do, it did look a little crusty. Ill take them off and clean it up nicely. Have another one ordered, hope it gets here soon. They are discontinued from toyota.
 
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Knoxville, TN
Have you tried modulating the throttle while turning the key. My theory here is that if the IAC is stuck closed and it’s flooding the engine then maybe it’ll hit if you give it a little air.
 

baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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If the spark plugs are wet then your problem is ignition. Does your 80 have the theft deterrent system under the driver seat? I believe those were called RS3000. This little unit has stumped more than a few members.
 
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it sure does, tried getting a FOB off of amazon to program with it, never did work. The light would flash on the dash however. When trying to start it now there is no light for the anti-theft system. what would be the best way to go around it, I assume it's more then just unplugging it?
 
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I thought the RS3000 just caused a no crank. I didn’t think it could do a crank no start. Besides that the OP said it had spark. I haven’t had issues with the RS3000 personally so I’m not speaking from experience but just what I seem to remember reading.
 

baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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it sure does, tried getting a FOB off of amazon to program with it, never did work. The light would flash on the dash however. When trying to start it now there is no light for the anti-theft system. what would be the best way to go around it, I assume it's more then just unplugging it?
Have you verified whether or not there is spark?
 
Joined
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back today, thanks for all the input so far.

The car does have spark, verified it by grounding the spark plugs to the cylinder head. Also checked the distributor, cap and rotor. Tested the ignition coil, camshaft and crankshaft sensors. all were good.

Cleaned the fusible link box as well as the terminals on the battery, new fusible, and tested continuity too.

Working on the car more today, just been slow as its cold and snowy here and the car isn't in the garage. Ill try and unplug the rs3000 and report back with the results.
 
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one thing that I've found is that if I use the diagnostics box to run the fuel pump (jumping FP to B+) I won't hear the fuel pump. I've verified that B+ has power when the ign is on. (11.8~ volts) If I jump at the fuel pump per the FSM with 12v, I can hear it kick on then. Cranking the engine with return hose off at the regulator will have fuel coming out, haven't tested anything for fuel pressure yet.
 
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Alright, this car is giving me quite the headache. Has anyone ever seen this before? Do I have the wrong diagnostics cap? Tried to jump the fuel pump by bridging FP to B+, but there is no FP in the diagnostics box?!?!?! o_O

Attached pictures of what I mean, remember that its flipped, so the B+ is on the bottom left and FP on bottom right, where it's blank.
20201215_133201.jpg
20201215_133140.jpg

I was able to bridge the connection at the fuel pump connector to get it to turn on, but did this with a 12v battery and some spare wire. Was hoping to be able to do it in the diagnostic port so I can crank the engine with the fuel pump jumped. I'm unable to hold the 12v battery to the fuel pump connector and start the car by myself at the same time. Maybe one day ill have alligator clips, or friends who live nearby.

So, Lifted up the seat to disconnect the rs300 alarm system, when doing this the car will not crank anymore. After looking online it seems I need to trace back the wiring and take it all out, not just disconnect it from the box. Eventually I will do this, but this doesn't seem to be the issue, as the car wouldn't crank if the alarm system is the issue. Unless anyone has a reason the alarm would cause the car to crank and not start.

Been following the FSM, everything checks out. Ill test to make sure I have power to the ECU tonight, but imagine it will check out since the check engine light is on during cranking.
 
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