Another CEL, VSC, 4Lo Thread (1 Viewer)

[mbusa1]

Interesting case of events ... on a 2008 LC with 230k miles.

I had gotten the CEL, VSC, 4Lo, Traction lights about same time last year. Main difference was that it was snowing heavily. I had removed the negative battery cable but the lights didn't go away. It was only after I cleared the codes, they went away and never returned.

Fast forward to last Friday during torrential downpour the lights returned. I didn't have access to my scanner but I again tried the battery cable "trick" and the lights went away temporarily but came back pretty soon after.

I finally got access to a code reader and got the following codes: P0301 (Cylinder 1 Misfire), C1268 (Transfer L4 Position Switch Circuit), and C1201.

Cleared the codes and they didn't come back for about a week.

Yesterday, I took the car to the dealership for an oil change, driveshaft greasing, and two recalls. After the dealership, I head to Shell for a full tank of gas.

This morning, I start the car and the lights have returned, whatever ... will read the codes in a bit. I drive to a coffee shop and get back in the car, and I press start ... no crank. Check everything including battery terminals, rowing through the gears, and the gas cap. Had to head home for a meeting and Uber was almost there but I decided to give it the good ol college try ... it finally starts, albeit a very hesitant start. Get home and park it outside. Get back in the car a few hours later and it starts without problem. Maybe slightly hesitant start?

Drive to my friends house and park it. After a few hours I go back outside with the code reader to get the codes figured out and when I go to start ... all the lights are gone.

Have started the car about 6 times since the no start ... all with no problem. Thoughts? Thinking that it's either the starter motor or something related to the fuel system.

It could be very possible that there are three separate problems, one with the transfer case actuator, one with the cylinder misfire, and the other with the starter motor. Thoughts?

 

[Sandroad]

I’m thinking 3 separate problems at the same time doesn’t seem likely. More likely one thing is the cause. Since you mentioned water (snow) both times when it started, have you checked for water leaks and corroded connectors? Run a search on here for water in the sills and corroded connections to see where to start looking.

 

[mbusa1]

Update.

Was at a family members house and car would not start. Same symptoms as before. One button click to ACC mode, two button click to ON mode. I have noticed that the car is slow to get into ON mode … it takes a while for the lights and dash displays to come online.

Let it sit overnight and came back with a GB40. Started the car for the hell of it without the booster and it started right up. Let it idle for a bit and turned it off. No start.

Plugged in the GB40 … nothing. Tried to jump with an RX350. Nothing.

Tried most of the things … cycling through gears, cleaning the terminals again, locking/unlocking, new battery into the fob.

It was pissing rain but everything in the footwells is dry, removed trim and it looks dry as well.

I hear the brake booster but nothing from the starter at all.

 

[TheComedian]

Sounds definitely like something related to water and moisture so probably something under your car.
I got that light combination when my rear diff cable had a shortage and a few times when I ripped off my ABS cable.

 

[NikP]

I would have the battery tested as a minimum, although jumping the battery should have produced positive results with a weak battery. I believe it's definitely different problems because the trans code should have nothing to do with a cylinder misfire. C1201 might be the code to investigate along with the misfire. It could be the misfire triggers the general ECM C1201 code and it doesn't allow the start condition. There are a couple of YouTube videos on Lexus LX570 with C1201 but I there in a foreign language so I they might not be helpful by one showed a few parts they were targeting.

 

[mbusa1]

I would have the battery tested as a minimum, although jumping the battery should have produced positive results with a weak battery. I believe it's definitely different problems because the trans code should have nothing to do with a cylinder misfire. C1201 might be the code to investigate along withe mistfire. It could be the misfire triggers the general ECM C1201 code and it doesn't allow the start condition. There are a couple of YouTube videos on Lexus LX570 with C1201 but I there in a foreign language so I they might not be helpful by one showed a few parts they were targeting.

Funny enough, the languages they speak aren't too far off from the ones I speak. In some of the videos it ended up being the starter. The others it was related to the EFI fuse.

I have read reports that sometimes the Noco GB40 doesn't have enough juice to jump the 5.7. I do think the RX should've been able to do the job.

I may have to have it towed since at the moment it's just street parked.

 

[tacoduck]

How old is the battery? Modern vehicles don’t like low voltage. Batteries are cheap. Multiple Uber rides and tow trucks are not.

 

[gasman4u]

+1 to @tacoduck rec on starting with your battery. It could be a stupid "box checking" exercise if it's new, but if it's old enough (say 3+ years IMO), I'd replace it.

A lot of mudders love the Noco GB series jumpers. @mbusa1 if what you have heard is accurate the GB 40 may not have enough to turn over your 5.7 as it is seemingly at it's upper end of capability (listed or not)? I went with HULKMAN Alpha 85 a few years ago as it supposedly has 2000A jump capacity and it has started everything I've connected it to with ease for the past 2.5 years. I hope to NOT have to use it on mine, but figured the spare capacity couldn't hurt.

Keep us posted on what you do and what ends up solving what you're seeing.

 

[mbusa1]

Checked the battery and it was fine. Totally stumped at the moment. Enjoy a rare LC flat bed sighting. Will keep everyone posted. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[aLwAyS4SaLe]

did you ever find out the problem?

 

[Boston Mangler]

Sounds bizarre, but i had the same issue with my 2014 Tundra

Longgggg, painstakingly frustrating troubleshooting story short, a rock, or something on the freeway bounced out and mangled one of my ABS/Speeed sensors on the rear wheel.

It triggered the same warning lights, and issues, but never triggered any brake related warning lights.

Just my random FYI

 

[aLwAyS4SaLe]

Crazy thing, When i got the car. It also had all the lights. My friend had access to toyota Diag software and noticed that the braking speed was different on the front passenger side speed sensor. replaced the really expensive sensor ($300), fixed the problem.

 

[Boston Mangler]

Crazy thing, When i got the car. It also had all the lights. My friend had access to toyota Diag software and noticed that the braking speed was different on the front passenger side speed sensor. replaced the really expensive sensor ($300), fixed the problem.

Yeah, sounds like EXACTLY the same issue I had with the Tundra

After getting under it, I was baffled at how the speed sensor wiring was routed and how poorly attached it was. I went through and redid it all to keep it out of harms way.

If I’m not mistaken, it was enough of a vulnerability problem, some aftermarket companies make guards for them now.

Now you that bring this up again, I’m going to crawl under my 200 and see if it’s the same and if so, address it asap

 

[aLwAyS4SaLe]

Yeah, sounds like EXACTLY the same issue I had with the Tundra

After getting under it, I was baffled at how the speed sensor wiring was routed and how poorly attached it was. I went through and redid it all to keep it out of harms way.

If I’m not mistaken, it was enough of a vulnerability problem, some aftermarket companies make guards for them now.

Now you that bring this up again, I’m going to crawl under my 200 and see if it’s the same and if so, address it asap

I don't know if it can be guarded since the hardness goes through the knuckle. My friend who's a toyota mechanic had to drill out the sensor since i think the corrosion was what did it in. Its not really able to be protected. Just pray!

 

[Boston Mangler]

I don't know if it can be guarded since the hardness goes through the knuckle. My friend who's a toyota mechanic had to drill out the sensor since i think the corrosion was what did it in. Its not really able to be protected. Just pray!

If they’re similar to the tundras in the REAR they most definitely can be protected.

The wiring harness is mounted to the front of the housing, really poor design.

To clarify my issues were in the rear