Another 1HZ DIY turbo conversion.... ALL DIY not a kit... (2 Viewers)

[TheMU]

Here is very well written article about fuel tuning of our diesels.

Mechanical Diesel Engine Tuning

Basic HOW-TO Mechanical Diesel Engine Tuning guide for most styles of VE injection pumps from Bosch, Delphi, Denso & Zexel.

www.tillix.com.au

Very simple and very detailed.

GTurbo Tuning Guide:
Credits to Graeme and GTurbo.

 

[Pasechnik]

GTurbo Tuning Guide:
Credits to Graeme and GTurbo.

Thanks a lot. Very practical and easy to understand.

 

[Pasechnik]

Right now I am still trying to set up my fuel. As I understand it is better to be on lower side than to add too much fuel and burn the piston. Unfortunately I don't have any dyno equipment anywhere close, so I have to do it by eye.

The power is much better and I think I still have some room for extra fuel. I tried a few long steep hills 4th gear and floored it and my EGTs are not even close to 500° C. My pyrometer is installed preturbo.

Also if I floor it from Idle I don't see any black smoke.

 

[Pasechnik]

I forgot to mention. I don't limit my boost pressure right now. I want to limit my fuel but have as much air as turbo can blow. I am not 100% sure if I am correct.

 

[Pasechnik]

I finally started to like driving my truck.... My other vehicle is tuned Ram Ecodiesel with 300 hp and driving my 1HZ was always a slow torture...

It is still far from matching the power but it is definitely much more enjoyable right now and I think I can still add more fuel as my EGTs are not high.

The problem is there is no long steep hills where I live to simulate the load, so I need to find some time to drive to hilly area and try to tune my fuel there.

My max boost pressure was about 20 psi and my sensor is on the intake header and not by the turbo.

 

[Pasechnik]

A bit off topic but this can be handy for someone.

As I mentioned before I drilled through AC condenser by mistake and had to weld it... This trucks have side glass and this makes charging AC and checking AC performance much easier.

I pressure tested first and then vacuumed my system with proper vacuum pump and charged it with Dust-Off which is R152a refrigerant. I used only 1 can which was enough to clear bubbles in sight class and a bit extra.

My Ac is blowing super cold and as with my other vehicles the AC compressor works so much quieter.

R134a is sold in Costco, Walmart, Amazon etc. in the USA but not in Canada.... In Canada you can't buy R134a in stores like in the US, but you can buy Dust-Off.... so this is more useful for Canadians.

 

[Pasechnik]

Finally we had a good chance to test out truck on mountain roads. We actually drove to over 7000 feet elevation (2200 m). The pressure on my boost gauge was -3.4 psi before starting the engine and it was the same -3.4 at idle. The boost was much lower and getting positive numbers at much higher rpm. My exhaust temps were also higher but the highest was about 500° C.

I tried to push it hard a few times but no smoke and EGSs seems to be fine. I might add a bit more fuel (1/4 turn of fuel screw) and see how it goes.

 

[84lumberman]

I read this on 4X Overland:

The trouble with the 1HZ is that it was never designed for being turbo-charged and when Toyota did build a turbo-charged version of it, they made some major changes to the piston design. They did this because the standard pistons have very thin crowns, and what this means is that the high-pressures created by a turbo can, and in most cases will, blow a hole in the top of one of the pistons. I say in most cases because after-market turbo suppliers cannot help themselves in trying to get the most power increase so that they can boast about their achievements and sell more turbos. This has lead to blown pistons, but by then, in most cases the warranty has expired.

How will you resolve this?
I'm asking because I found a 1991 Toyota Land Cruiser HZJ73 ZX Limited for sale and it has a turbo. I'm interested in purchasing it but I'm curious about how to prevent this.

 

[Pasechnik]

I read this on 4X Overland:

The trouble with the 1HZ is that it was never designed for being turbo-charged and when Toyota did build a turbo-charged version of it, they made some major changes to the piston design. They did this because the standard pistons have very thin crowns, and what this means is that the high-pressures created by a turbo can, and in most cases will, blow a hole in the top of one of the pistons. I say in most cases because after-market turbo suppliers cannot help themselves in trying to get the most power increase so that they can boast about their achievements and sell more turbos. This has lead to blown pistons, but by then, in most cases the warranty has expired.

How will you resolve this?
I'm asking because I found a 1991 Toyota Land Cruiser HZJ73 ZX Limited for sale and it has a turbo. I'm interested in purchasing it but I'm curious about how to prevent this.

This was discussed over and over... The weaknesses of the non turbo 1HZ and other non turbo engines are well known. The problem is people themselves. We get a slug like 1HZ and I mean this.... my pre turbo 1HZ was a slug... We get a magic pill called turbo.... we try it and we LOVE it and we want MORRRRREEEEEE... and this is what kills the deal.... You have to know the limitations and behave accordingly.

Most people are talking about the boost and they mean boost pressure... and most people are saying that 10 psi is a good pressure... OK we can limit our boost by bleeding extra exhaust gases by adjusting the waste gate, but how about the fuel? We easily can have 10 psi of boost and a ton of extra fuel which will burn hot and burn the hell of thin piston crown. This scenario looks like this we adjust our waste gate to have only 10 psi of boost then we keep adding extra fuel by turning our fuel screw in.

To me it seems more logical to limit amount the fuel we allow to be injected. It is very easy to have another turn of the fuel screw and you get extra power and another turn and you get even more power... but you have to remember... limitations....

When we limit the amount of fuel and not the boost we are trying to lean our burning and this is what we need in our limited engines.

Here is my own observation. After our trip to mountings I decided to add more fuel (MORRRRREEEE...) I turned my fuel screw in a good 3/4 of a turn. I noticed how my EGTs started to climb very quickly to 400° C if I hit it hard from low RPM. I said to myself may be I need to back off a bit? I turned my fuel screw 1/4 turn out and I think now I have a good spot. My EGTs are climbing quickly to 300-320° C If I punch it and get back down to 250-270. I did lose a punch of power but limitations.... are limitations...

Right now I am VERY pleased how my truck is running it is actually fun to drive it. I will test it how much EGTs and AFR but I need to drive it closer to mountains and do it there.

To sum it up... Remember the fuel is your power and the fuel is your engine killer. It is up to you how much power/killer to have. Don't be greedy....

Also I think it is a MUST have intercooler and it is not expensive to add it and not a big hassle to do it. You don't need to jump on some fancy air to water etc kits.. any intercooler is better than no intercooler.

Also I think it is a MUST have a GOOD pre turbo EGT gauge. I do have an AFR monitor and it is useful but it is secondary tool and I won't use it much.

 

[gifu]

Good write up.
you mentioned that the aneroid pin is at the max power... do you mean the most aggressive curve of the pin?
I've found that you can also fine-tune the pump by adjusting the spring tension that sits below the aneroid pin. This won't affect full fuel, but rather acceleration. Also, pump timing is a huge help. Advancing the pump about 1mm (rotate the pump so the top moves toward the engine block) will reduce the EGT's but about 75-100C.
Lastly, where is your valve cover breather going? Factory send it back into the air cleaner... or into the turbo. I highly suggest you vent to atmosphere... the oil residue in your intake will attract the dust that makes it through your air filter will create the nastiest sludge in your intake and intercooler.

 

[Pasechnik]

Good write up.
you mentioned that the aneroid pin is at the max power... do you mean the most aggressive curve of the pin?
I've found that you can also fine-tune the pump by adjusting the spring tension that sits below the aneroid pin. This won't affect full fuel, but rather acceleration. Also, pump timing is a huge help. Advancing the pump about 1mm (rotate the pump so the top moves toward the engine block) will reduce the EGT's but about 75-100C.
Lastly, where is your valve cover breather going? Factory send it back into the air cleaner... or into the turbo. I highly suggest you vent to atmosphere... the oil residue in your intake will attract the dust that makes it through your air filter will create the nastiest sludge in your intake and intercooler.

1. Yes, by max power I meant max fuel, which is at the most aggressive curve.

2. "I've found that you can also fine-tune the pump by adjusting the spring tension that sits below the aneroid pin." My guess is you mean boost compensator star wheel adjustment. My star wheel is all the way at the bottom 0 clicks. This must give the best acceleration.

3. Timing.... I didn't touch it yet...

4. The engine breather goes into oil catch can and then outside... no way I will let the oily mist get into my intercooler and intake...

 

[phatman81]

Is is possible to remove the EGR on a 1HD-FTE or disable it through the ECU ? ..

 

[Pasechnik]

Is is possible to remove the EGR on a 1HD-FTE or disable it through the ECU ? ..

It is probably doable... I don't have any experience with 1HD-FTE. My engine is 1HZ and it has no ECU, so getting rid of EGR is an easy task.... mine actually came without EGR from the factory.

 

[Krankieone]

a "special" gasket with no through hole will do the job on the egr

 

[Pasechnik]

a "special" gasket with no through hole will do the job on the egr

This is exactly what I did on my Ram EcoDiesel while it was in Canada (I did have to load a new tune in the ECU). In some areas in Canada and I think in the US you have yearly emission testing and your have to keep your emission equipment on for visual inspection. Now I live in the country where my Ram EcoDiesel will pass local emission test without EGR DPF SCR at all. So all my emission equipment received new "special" gasket call garbage bin . Actually I just passed emission test on my Land Cruiser after turbo mode, no problem at all.

 

[olandevo]

Hi Pasechnik, Awesome thread! Just found this searching as i intend on doing a turbo on my 1hz in the near future. I've found your input very helpful when it comes to getting an idea of everything I'm going to need. I've sourced a CT6 turbo that I'm having rebuilt with a new upgraded exhaust housing and an adapter flange for stock exhaust manifold that ill be adding the pre-turbo EGT probe to. I have a boost compensator i got off another member and I'm currently in the process of sourcing all other parts necessary.

I have a couple questions for you.

Here we have first dilemma in order to keep it all under control we need to have some sort of monitoring system. As this engine is all mechanical we can't just connect OBD scanner and see what is happening.

Not a big deal we can add O2 sensor and get reading from the monitor and see what actual AFR is right now right with this load... Not so easy... Narrow band O2 sensors are useless in our case and even wide band O2 sensors monitors are only showing high AFR 20 or some 22. This is ok for gas engines as AFR 22 for gas engine is way too high and mixture is way too lean.

For diesel engine we can see AFR 20 and even 30 and even 80.... Diesel engine will run with no problem at such a high AFR.

Sooo with the AFR... I'm not a guru when it comes to anything mechanical, i can follow instructions and make things work, i have determination and mechanical aptitude, but this is beyond me. Later in your thread you say it's not THE most useful tool:

Also I think it is a MUST have a GOOD pre turbo EGT gauge. I do have an AFR monitor and it is useful but it is secondary tool and I won't use it much.

How detrimental to the system is having a AFR reading? The massive gauge cluster you built looks like you have something out of back to the future on your dashboard. Not to knock your setup it just seems a bit much and I'd like to minimize if possible.

I built a metal enclosure for my controls:

View attachment 2319590

My interior is still in ruins... but one day...

Next time when I have it running I will take a picture showing working controls.

I was thinking Pyrometer and Boost gauge in a sleek housing on the pillar...

Is it realistic to think i can dial in the rig without AFR? My thought process suggests once its all dialed in, timing, fuel, boost psi - running and driving... Operator should be able to drive normally keeping an eye on egt's and boost no?

How has your setup been running the past two years?
How much PSI boost are you running?
Are you happy with your turbo choice?
What would you do different?


TIA Cheers

 

[Gun Runner 5]

I wouldn’t even consider turbocharging a 1HZ without also installing an efficient Intercooler.

 

[Blomdala]

Hi Pasechnik, Awesome thread! Just found this searching as i intend on doing a turbo on my 1hz in the near future. I've found your input very helpful when it comes to getting an idea of everything I'm going to need. I've sourced a CT6 turbo that I'm having rebuilt with a new upgraded exhaust housing and an adapter flange for stock exhaust manifold that ill be adding the pre-turbo EGT probe to. I have a boost compensator i got off another member and I'm currently in the process of sourcing all other parts necessary.

I have a couple questions for you.



Sooo with the AFR... I'm not a guru when it comes to anything mechanical, i can follow instructions and make things work, i have determination and mechanical aptitude, but this is beyond me. Later in your thread you say it's not THE most useful tool:



How detrimental to the system is having a AFR reading? The massive gauge cluster you built looks like you have something out of back to the future on your dashboard. Not to knock your setup it just seems a bit much and I'd like to minimize if possible.



I was thinking Pyrometer and Boost gauge in a sleek housing on the pillar...

View attachment 3107628

Is it realistic to think i can dial in the rig without AFR? My thought process suggests once its all dialed in, timing, fuel, boost psi - running and driving... Operator should be able to drive normally keeping an eye on egt's and boost no?

How has your setup been running the past two years?
How much PSI boost are you running?
Are you happy with your turbo choice?
What would you do different?


TIA Cheers

I am running a stock FTE ct26 turbo in my 1HZ, have been since Jan of 21. I have EGT and psi in the a pillar mount you showed. One of these days I’ll get an intercooler installed, but for the last almost 2 years it’s been a blast and I’m very happy I did. I just did a basic adjustment with the max fuel and idle screw. I should have done the boost comp star wheel adjustment using pressure before I installed it to really dial it in, but I just left it stock. I push 14psi max, and my exhaust is very clean. My max opacity is 6% at 60mph (for reference my grandpas stock 92 Cummins was 30%). The good news is diesels aren’t hurt by running lean like their gasoline brethren. So I just adjust my screw to where it felt like the turbo spooled well, but I wasn’t blowing smoke(really just wasting fuel at that point). AFR makes it earlier to know what’s goin on, but not impossible without.

 

[olandevo]

I am running a stock FTE ct26 turbo in my 1HZ, have been since Jan of 21. I have EGT and psi in the a pillar mount you showed. One of these days I’ll get an intercooler installed, but for the last almost 2 years it’s been a blast and I’m very happy I did. I just did a basic adjustment with the max fuel and idle screw. I should have done the boost comp star wheel adjustment using pressure before I installed it to really dial it in, but I just left it stock. I push 14psi max, and my exhaust is very clean. My max opacity is 6% at 60mph (for reference my grandpas stock 92 Cummins was 30%). The good news is diesels aren’t hurt by running lean like their gasoline brethren. So I just adjust my screw to where it felt like the turbo spooled well, but I wasn’t blowing smoke(really just wasting fuel at that point). AFR makes it earlier to know what’s goin on, but not impossible without.

Nice to know you can still get good psi and low heat even without an IC. Did you up your exhaust to 3" or are you still running stock 2.5"?

 

[Blomdala]

Nice to know you can still get good psi and low heat even without an IC. Did you up your exhaust to 3" or are you still running stock 2.5"?

I did a full 3' exhaust and resonator. My temps will climb, especially when I had a trailer, but I can lower them by letting off the skinny pedal. I do still want to put an IC in, but I'm not sad that I didn't wait for that to do the turbo. Especially now living over 5k ft, it would have been a sooty turd to drive here!