an interesting weekend.... Hydrolocking ITT

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So...... a longer story to follow, but the jist of it is my truck spent ~2-4 ish hrs having a bath; after the ordeal I have a few questions should anyone have some input...

1) What is the proper way to drain a 13BT considering there are no glow plugs; I ended up just draining the oil/water but figured there has to be a better way then blasting water through the ring seals....


2) how does one pull an injector on this truck? I tried unbolting the two retention bolts but it seems to be the truck was unwilling to let go of the injectors;



IMG_0226.JPG

<-fluids from the diffs, trany & x-fer case....
 
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Just curious why the engine took in water when you had a snorkel, was it not installed correctly?
 
You have to undo the injectors and if possible the GLOW plugs but a 13B-T does not have them.

You also have to undo the turbo hose so the water is blasted out and not back into the engine.


Then you have to drain and flush the oil out many times - at least 5-6 times to flush all the water out.


Now you also need to flush out the xfer case the gear box and the diffs.


Hope you did not drive it unless you did all the above.

You have to prise them out they do come out it takes effort.


THe POnd looked really scenic until I rolled down and saw the non floating water hazard haha.
 
Suggesting you remove the picture unless you want the Ministry of Environment to come knocking on your door. Fines are pretty substantial for parking a vehicle in water...

~John
 
Hey thanks for the heads up Radd;

Anyway yes moral of the story is 3"s of water can become a few feet of water if your driving on silty gravel, I did NOT plan on ending up in the creek;

the engine ran for a few minutes while I was freezing my butt off trying to swim my winch line over to a tree; then it stalled out (I believe water got in through the bug catcher) that being said Im assuming one shouldn't run an engine submerged for very long, correct?

After I managed to find some folks to get me out of there we dragged it back to a small fishing community; dumped the oil (12ish Liters of fluid) and filled er up with some 10W-30 gasser oil; however gear oil was out of the question there, and we were scheduled to pick up some people who were camping WAY the hell out in the middle of no where; so we ended up driving it for another 300 km before I could get the gear oil changed, and the engine oil back to diesel oil....
its more or less dry inside now, and most of the electrical gremlins have gone away; however now when the engine is running with minimal load on the electrical system im getting strange variances in voltage jumping up and down 5ish volts (with an audible change in town from the engine; im thinking a regulator issue? with load on the issue goes away....

blewout the headlights, fried the amp, and I was having some issues with the clutch not engaging (which seems to have solved itself now) Also got water in the fuel; and stopping every 20 km to drain the water separator is getting a bit tedious so draining the tank today;


Oh and frayed my winch line; and flooded my compressor



Edit:
PS: so next question, will changing the diff fluids be enough or should I be looking at trying to fill/drain them with varsol/etc first?
 
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Tell everyone yr car details so we know what not to buy in the future. Water stuffs things so much and often you cant see the damage until something is pulled down . ie gear teeth
Dave
 
ECU will also be sick they hate getting wet. In kick panel left side. Best place for ECU is on roof but that means making custom cable up.

You were buyyourself we assume. It would take 2-3 winches to pull you out if u in soft silt i.e. 2-3 time ur truck weight to overcome the suction easily or a couple of snatch blocks.

Good luck drying it all out carpets out etc , wheel bearing changes , gearbox knackered .
 
What ECU? You meen fuse box.
 
Ya I didn't think the 13bt had an ecu, when I first got it running again the key wouldn't trip the shutoff vane, however after a few hrs of running that issue seemed to rectify itself.
Id still love any input to the above electrical issue; ie voltage fluctuations when minimul load is applied...

Also getting the occasional scraping noise from the rear end, wheel bearings maybe?



And yes I was an idiot on a number of levels, including only having one truck onsite.... I have a feeling I'm going to be paying for this one for a while.............
 
Voltage fluctuations - your alt is probably going out on you.

it have a internal or external V regulator box . ? another thing to check in my list ..
 
Its sort of a ecu , its the EDIC control box , controls the pump shut off valve.
Dave
 
Hi All:

Walker, sorry to hear about the grief, mate! :frown:

But, like Cicak mentioned one should not 'wheel alone!! :rolleyes:

For flushing out the gear boxes, engine, etc. just buy the cheapest dino oil of the correct grade you can find, run it in the rig for a 100-200 KMs, then dump it for fresh oil.

Best of luck!

Alan

f






Hey thanks for the heads up Radd;

Anyway yes moral of the story is 3"s of water can become a few feet of water if your driving on silty gravel, I did NOT plan on ending up in the creek;

the engine ran for a few minutes while I was freezing my butt off trying to swim my winch line over to a tree; then it stalled out (I believe water got in through the bug catcher) that being said Im assuming one shouldn't run an engine submerged for very long, correct?

After I managed to find some folks to get me out of there we dragged it back to a small fishing community; dumped the oil (12ish Liters of fluid) and filled er up with some 10W-30 gasser oil; however gear oil was out of the question there, and we were scheduled to pick up some people who were camping WAY the hell out in the middle of no where; so we ended up driving it for another 300 km before I could get the gear oil changed, and the engine oil back to diesel oil....
its more or less dry inside now, and most of the electrical gremlins have gone away; however now when the engine is running with minimal load on the electrical system im getting strange variances in voltage jumping up and down 5ish volts (with an audible change in town from the engine; im thinking a regulator issue? with load on the issue goes away....

blewout the headlights, fried the amp, and I was having some issues with the clutch not engaging (which seems to have solved itself now) Also got water in the fuel; and stopping every 20 km to drain the water separator is getting a bit tedious so draining the tank today;


Oh and frayed my winch line; and flooded my compressor



Edit:
PS: so next question, will changing the diff fluids be enough or should I be looking at trying to fill/drain them with varsol/etc first?
 
But, like Cicak mentioned one should not 'wheel alone!! :rolleyes:
I often wheel alone, as I don't know anyone that wants to do the trips I want to do, when I want to do them, so no other choice.

Just have to be prepared to self-recover I suppose.
 
I often wheel alone, as I don't know anyone that wants to do the trips I want to do, when I want to do them, so no other choice.

Just have to be prepared to self-recover I suppose.

I have wheeled alone and kayaked alone and gone down whitewater alone and MTB'd alone you just have to be sure of yourself and accept the risks. 4x4ing alone or with buddies in one truck just means you let someone know your plans and have a rescue plan to be implemented (and someone who is capable i.e. a fellow adventurer) your route with someone capable of actioning it if you do not turn up trust me no point if you do not turn up at a certain time and never deviate from your planned route.
 
Personally I would have replaced all the oils right there and then dirivng 300k after a submarine dive sounds expensive.

Now I would be replacing every wheel bearing asap and the diff bearings and the seals. What was the gearbox and xfer case oil like? Coffee colour?

Did you drive into the water while the vehicles was really hot or did you let the diffs and gearbox cool down before driving into the water for like 10-15 minutes?

Sounds like the rear diff has gone and its chewing itself to death slowly.

Alternator needs to be looked at was the water dirty? if so it may have mud/silt in it so brushes will be dead as the mud dries on the hot brushes and will not come off.

I believe you can get sealed alternators over there but they cost like $800usd.

Sounds like you have a lot of heartache to go through yet be glad you did not have ECU in it I can assure you it would not have started after surfacing.
 
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if you have common sense then even by yourself you are never alone. your common sense and gut feeling will tell you whether what you are about to do is fine, a bit on the nervy side, scary, stupid or just fawking retarded.
for 30 years i had no issues wheeling by myself but i packed accordingly and picked my trail. i never had to walk out (okay, i did have to walk out once from the bush but that was due to bad batteries and not driver error AND once i got a truck to follow me in to give me a boost the bloody thing started up on its own. crap.).
i have also found that when you wheel with buddies then tetestorone can come to a head and you end up challenging yourself and your vehicle more than if you were by yourself.

all this said, i do recommend you have someone along just in case.

and

if you have no common sense

.......

do everyone a favor

.............


sell your land cruiser

and

walk.

it is safer for everyone...


as for the post,
drain your oil
run 2 lites of tranny fluid and the rest the cheapest oil you can find in the enigine and drive for 20-30 minutes
drain and refill with proper oil.
diffs, tranny,t/case, drain and refill with proper 80-90 oil ... done

you will also want to check the starter motor, alternator, any computors, edic motor (if so equiped).

all in all not a big deal unless you were reving the crap out of it when you went under.

shoot me the original pics to wayne at crushersrule.com as i would love to see it.
pics of why a dog shouldn't drive. would not have been an issue if the lid to the air cleaner would have been latched down properly. moral of the story: check your own truck over before the run.
also, if someone says "its pretty deep" then get out and walk the route.
why dogs don't drive.webp
a small dip.webp
 
Ya I didn't think the 13bt had an ecu, when I first got it running again the key wouldn't trip the shutoff vane, however after a few hrs of running that issue seemed to rectify itself.
Id still love any input to the above electrical issue; ie voltage fluctuations when minimul load is applied...

Also getting the occasional scraping noise from the rear end, wheel bearings maybe?



And yes I was an idiot on a number of levels, including only having one truck onsite.... I have a feeling I'm going to be paying for this one for a while.............

sorry forgot its was not a 2L-T donk in the sunken ferryand is a 13B-T
 

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