Build An Accidental Frame Off..................

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65swb45 said:
With an avatar like that, I can understand why!
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I was once a fine young lad, then I bought a Land Cruiser. One engine had a cracked head. The next engine I overheated. Then I found some rust.

Now I look like a recovering cancer patient who cooks crystal meth. Times are tough.

Now that I have a fresh 2F, and the cancer surgery is almost complete on the ole TLC, I may become a fine young lad again!
 
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@65swb45 Cheers.
 
It has been a hectic week here for me, I have a few different things going on work wise, and at home. Last night our well pump quit working, I spent all day pulling it and splicing a couple of wires that had been chafed. All 150 feet deep of it.

Tech stuff-I contacted SEM Products about the crap ass copperweld primer I had, 4 cans in all that were useless. Tech support told me they were out of date, the shelf life had expired. Last month.

I went to a local paint supply store this afternoon and talked to them about what they had. No Dice. Their stock was almost 4 years old. So I picked up some U-Pol copper primer. That stuff is like liquid gold (priced accordingly), it is a premium quality product.

Welded in 2 of the bed support brackets tonight.
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I also have delayed buying an air compressor, I have a pretty solid lead on another job out west. No sense in buying a big ass air compressor if I may be packing up to move in a hurry. It would be an awesome opportunity if everything works out, a nice gig in a heck of a location.


Time will tell.
 
So I might get some bodywork out of you after all!:p
 
rkymtnflyfisher said:
It has been a hectic week here for me, I have a few different things going on work wise, and at home. Last night our well pump quit working, I spent all day pulling it and splicing a couple of wires that had been chafed. All 150 feet deep of it.

Tech stuff-I contacted SEM Products about the crap ass copperweld primer I had, 4 cans in all that were useless. Tech support told me they were out of date, the shelf life had expired. Last month.

I went to a local paint supply store this afternoon and talked to them about what they had. No Dice. Their stock was almost 4 years old. So I picked up some U-Pol copper primer. That stuff is like liquid gold (priced accordingly), it is a premium quality product.

Welded in 2 of the bed support brackets tonight. View attachment 1346860 View attachment 1346861 View attachment 1346862 View attachment 1346863
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Okay, I'll bite....Why "copperweld"
 
tstepp920 said:
Okay, I'll bite....Why "copperweld"
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So I can get the bare metal in areas that metal is between flanges and behind welds primed. Parts can be primed, clamped in place and welded. The copperweld primer can be welded unlike other primers. (there are other weld through primers out there that contain zinc). I am doing all I can to make sure ALL the bare metal has been primed.
 
rkymtnflyfisher said:
So I can get the bare metal in areas that metal is between flanges and behind welds primed. Parts can be primed, clamped in place and welded. The copperweld primer can be welded unlike other primers. (there are other weld through primers out there that contain zinc). I am doing all I can to make sure ALL the bare metal has been primed.
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Not afraid to say, I learned something new.
 
Getting all those hidden places coated has been one of the things I have tried hard to do on the Dagha Boy. My solution has been to coat with red oxide primer and then grind it off only in the spots I'm going to weld. For the load bed where the rust was quite clearly due to lots of open-but-not-accessible areas in bare steel from the factory and almost impossible to coat after assembly (between support beams and underside of ribbed floor) I have also top coated all the components and just ground off the paint where the button welds will go.

My thinking is that some of the coating will get damaged but 99%+ of the vulnerable areas will be be properly protected. How well it will work remains to be seen.

There are some hollow sections like for example the rockers that I would like to treat with rust preventative. (Valvoline Tectyl) but the problem is getting it in there on all the surfaces. I read references to "wands" (flexible) here and elsewhere but have never seen one and nobody I have spoken to around here can tell me where to get one...

Can anybody point me in the right direction to get one off the internet???

Having just done an 1800km move with a cruiser in pieces you have my sympathy... It took me more than a month to just get settled in again.
 
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Dagha Boy said:
Having just done an 1800km move with a cruiser in pieces you have my sympathy... It took me more than a month to just get settled in again.
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I'm looking at a 2300 mile move, there are some serious concerns. I am trying to get my cruiser to a point that I could bolt most of the body back together to move it.

KBS coatings sells one of the spray cans with the wand for rustproofing the hidden areas, albeit a little pricey. I am going to give it a shot here in the next few weeks if the job opportunity falls through.
 
Apparently the federal government is not in a hurry to fill a vacancy prior to a possible hiring freeze, a common concern during election season.

On to the tech.

I went ahead and bought a big ass air compressor while it was on sale, if I need to move it I will cross that bridge when necessary. As far as the 40 goes, the body is back on the frame and I have a fuel tank well coming from New Mexico shortly, that should be the end of the major metal work. Aside from the rust monster that got hungry and ate part of my barn door and some miscellaneous detail work, I should be coming to the end of the metal.

I got an email from @FJ40Jim regarding my carb and distributor, they are almost complete and should be back in my possession before Santa comes.

I may wrap them up and put them under the tree.

The checklist is getting shorter, primer and paint will have to wait until the winter lets up.

Currently I have the front seats bolted in and the frames bolted down, there were a couple bolts that needed a new nut welded back to the body for the drivers side. All of the seat frame mounts that I replaced metal under are being reinforced with more steel. I have yet to come up with a solution for the rear fold and tumble that I like. Hopefully I get some time this weekend to look into that concern.
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Soon.

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I have received a few goodies in the mail recently also. The one I am most interested in using may be the KBS Cavity Coater. It has the 36" flexible wand and gets some pretty good reviews. I plan to use it inside the main beam, in the areas that are open for the bed support brackets, and inside the rockers on both sides. For the price of it I may cut the can open and wipe that crap wherever else I find a place to do it.

Other stuff has been air compressor related, and stuff I can't seem to recall right now.

I do have a package full of bolts and a gasket set for the transfer case somewhere in the mail...........
 
Wow. That is indeed a pretty valley.

I had a look at the KBS stuff. Looks like amazing products they have. Wish we got them here. That wand tip looks like quite an intricate piece of engineering, but with the price of that stuff I suppose one needs to apply precisely.

I managed to get hold of a "nozzle" here, nothing precision about it, a couple of 4 slits and a small hole in front and a barb at the back for a piece of hose. Sort of HF type engineering and quality. Its OK for me because I will spray relatively cheap Valvoline Tectyl - more is better - right?

Love the compressor. I assume the up-and-downs are to trap water? I can't see nicely on the photo how you drain each run at the bottom. Only oil in air is worse than water.
 
@Dagha Boy I have 3 ball valves at the drop leg to allow draining. So far I can tell that it collects a pretty significant amount of moisture before it gets to the filter/regulator up top. I used 3/4 copper all the way to the fitler/regulator, it turns to 1/2 just prior, I am using 1/2 hose for some extra flow!
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one I took a couple years ago on a fly fishing trip in MT.
 
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