Am I smoking crack, can you combine soft brake lines to extend them for SOA (1 Viewer)

[dieselcruiserhead]

1) Every SOA I have done I have doubled up on lines....
2) there is nothing 'hack' about it what so ever.
3) 90% of the time, the OEM rubber lines are manufactured better than aftermarket stainless steel lines regardless.
4) a lot of stainless lines are not DOT approved including those sold by most racing shops.
5) stainless steel lines never came on any vehicle OEM that I am aware of.
6) I know Whatley (tech exhange editor Mark W who posted earlier in this thread) prefers OEM rubber because it does not get hung up on brush etc versus stainless steel.
7) the "rubber lines" have stainless steel braiding that is protected by a rubber sheath. On most of my cruisers it has lasted at least 10-20 years of the life of the cruiser. When the sheath rots out, it allows grime in there that could damage the stainless steel, how the stainless steel lines are designed from the factory... As long as the lines appear healthy, they are usually fine to use, including on a cruiser you might not have full history on.
8) I have never had a 'rubber' brake line fail ever, only steel factory metal hard lines, which I think are a weaker link than the flexible lines usually...
9) it is only one more connection in the half dozen in the line all together. As long as you have a good connection you have a good connection. Even under the supposed 4000 psi or whatever it is brakes squeeze at I have never had one of these connections fail, and I am not paranoid or "over torquing" these connections or anything retarded like this...
10) Bling is not always best, we drove Land Cruisers, you all should know this..


So my $.02 on it for all the armchair mechanics out there... Sorry to be an a****** about it...

I agree with the importance of brakes (DUH) but this is a little retarded...

 

[bad_religion_au]

1) Every SOA I have done I have doubled up on lines....
2) there is nothing 'hack' about it what so ever.
3) 90% of the time, the OEM rubber lines are manufactured better than aftermarket stainless steel lines regardless.
4) a lot of stainless lines are not DOT approved including those sold by most racing shops.
5) stainless steel lines never came on any vehicle OEM that I am aware of.
6) I know Whatley (tech exhange editor Mark W who posted earlier in this thread) prefers OEM rubber because it does not get hung up on brush etc versus stainless steel.
7) the "rubber lines" have stainless steel braiding that is protected by a rubber sheath. On most of my cruisers it has lasted at least 10-20 years of the life of the cruiser. When the sheath rots out, it allows grime in there that could damage the stainless steel, how the stainless steel lines are designed from the factory... As long as the lines appear healthy, they are usually fine to use, including on a cruiser you might not have full history on.
8) I have never had a 'rubber' brake line fail ever, only steel factory metal hard lines, which I think are a weaker link than the flexible lines usually...
9) it is only one more connection in the half dozen in the line all together. As long as you have a good connection you have a good connection. Even under the supposed 4000 psi or whatever it is brakes squeeze at I have never had one of these connections fail, and I am not paranoid or "over torquing" these connections or anything retarded like this...
10) Bling is not always best, we drove Land Cruisers, you all should know this..


So my $.02 on it for all the armchair mechanics out there... Sorry to be an a****** about it...

I agree with the importance of brakes (DUH) but this is a little retarded...

i thought the likes of porsche, ferarri and BMW M3's had stainless braided lines

 

[dgangle]

4000 psi? You gotta have one heck of a mastercyclinder on there or really stomp the crap out of your pedal. Disks are typically 1200-1600psi, drums 600-800 psi. Fronts require more pressure than the rear, regarless of the type.

Quoted from:
http://www.ssbrakes.com/tech/#What amount of pressures are needed to stop my car?

Q: What amount of pressures are needed to stop my car?

A: Optimal brake pressure varies by vehicle and the type of brakes being used. Disc brakes generally require 1,200 - 1,400 PSI for proper operation, while drum brakes require only 600 - 800 PSI. Other factors which affect pressure include weight distribution, tire/wheel size, and suspension type. For example, a car that is very nose heavy and has narrow rear tires with rear disc brakes may only be able to tolerate 800 PSI before brake lockup occurs. A car that is well balanced and has a wide rear tire with rear disc brakes may tolerate as much as 1,200 PSI before lockup. For this reason, Stainless Steel Brakes recommends an Adjustable Proportioning Valve (right), which allows fine adjustment to optimize the brakes on specific vehicles. The idea is to prevent rear wheel lockup during severe braking.

EDIT: fix my white trash spelling mistakes

 

[cruiser88]

ive did it on a trail fix forgot about fixing it correct and my buddys royal airforce military lightweight rover did not like the results later .you know how some of the body parts are riveted together. well it was totally fxxxed and he was pissed. iwas crossing a tank trap and could not get stoped on the other side. just another reason why i own cruisers all i had to do is wipe off his paint off my rig . dont do it man