This is a great little mod. I bought the "add a fuse" and a diode for less than $10. It increased my cold-start voltage from 14.1 V to 14.7V. Should suit my Northstar well.
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Same. 14.2 to 14.7 volts and still have the fuse protection. Thanks folks, especially @AimCOtaco, for this little mod.This is a great little mod. I bought the "add a fuse" and a diode for less than $10. It increased my cold-start voltage from 14.1 V to 14.7V. Should suit my Northstar well.
Fixed it for you. Gotta ensure those kyber crystal shards fuse correctlyThis is a great little mod. I bought the "add a fuse" and a diode for less than $10. It increased my cold-start voltage from 14.1 V to 14.7V. Should suit myNorthstarDeathstar well.
how you located it .? how it's called .?From 13.5V fully (warmed up) to 14.0V after the diode mod. Got mine from o’reilly’s -had to order it and wait and pick it up the next day.
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how you located it .? how it's called .?
thanks !
I agree.... it might not allow much more than 7.5A to come through. I don't have the right equipment to test, but would be great if someone who did would see how many amps the diode will take before it pops.Is that Diode also a fuse? I'm glad it's working but I'd want to be sure that:
A. The Diode can handle unexpected loads (I used a 6-10A diode I think based on the 7.5A stock fuse).
B. The diode would pop and fail open if it hit loads that would pop the factory 7.5A fuse.
Not saying this Littelfuse diode isn't the greatest solution yet found, just stating my thoughts.
Running a big diode inline with the 7.5A fuse I'm confidant is both safe and robust.
Yes, by its nature a diode will fail OPEN like a fuse when carrying current above it's rating... usually. It will fail CLOSED with over voltage... usually. From the pic by @OEMGUY0720 the over current rating for the Littelfuse diode is 1A, which is more than ample for the sense line. The standard fuse rating of 7.5 does not reflect the current actually flowing through that wire, which under normal conditions is less than 10mA (<0.010 A). Instead, the 7.5 is just more of a standard value fuse and is ample to protect the wire from burning if somehow shorted to chassis ground.Is that Diode also a fuse?
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here you go, hope this helps.
I had to trim the casing to fit inside the S. Alt fuse bank. I little nerve wrecking, but worked. If you insert the fuse the wrong way the battery CEL will display on the dash
I just installed a home made voltage booster as my system was generally about 13.4 - 14.2 running and my optima's were not lasting as long as they do in another Toy' with higher voltage. Optima (AGM battery) recommends 14.0-14.8 or so which lead me to want to try this and see if my battery's last longer. I think the optimas were not reaching full charge with just 14.2 max from the alternator.
I used a circuit tap that is designed to add a fused circuit from a fuse panel without bypassing the original circuit fuse. I just chopped the output pin down enough that I could make the assembly narrow enough for the battery fuse block on the LC and used a basic 6A rectifier diode and a couple of solder joints. Configured this way the rectifier is in series with the ALT-S fuse. Here it is done and in (5a fuse for bench test only):
View attachment 1346811
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I had considered a wiring modification due to the tight space but this worked great and can be returned to stock in 1 minute if needed. Now I seem to be running between about 14.0 and 14.8 depending on operating conditions. This should keep things brighter and pulling lower current, the radios seem very happy as well. Optimistic that I'll get longer battery life but time will tell on that. Not a bad mod for $10 and a few minutes cutting and soldering.
Bump on where I can source this diode to maintain the 7.5A fuseI made and installed the booster @AimCOtaco outlined on page 2. I have dual AGM batteries charging off the alternator and wanted to supply them with the voltage they need to stay healthy. Prior to this I had been 'topping them off' monthly with an AGM charger/maintainer.
I coated the diode leads with liquid electrical tape after they were soldered to to add-a-fuse kit.
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It is a snug fit in the main fuse housing, but it fits.
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The Cruiser is now charging at 0.5 volt more than I was before: 13.5-14.1 vs 14.0-14.6.
If you’re here in North America you can get it from O’Reilly’s in-store or their online store. Check out my post above post #63 and #66.Bump on where I can source this diode to maintain the 7.5A fuse
Haha thanks, I am in America. I am just looking for the other option where I can keep the fuse as well. Has the solution from O'Reilly's been reliable for you?If you’re here in North America you can get it from O’Reilly’s in-store or their online store. Check out my post above post #63 and #66.
A more expensive alternative, that requires some patience, in waiting for deferred gratification (read as they’re slow to ship):Haha thanks, I am in America. I am just looking for the other option where I can keep the fuse as well. Has the solution from O'Reilly's been reliable for you?