Almost tucked in 35s... 80 series need feedback. (1 Viewer)

[GW Nugget]

Kinda think the same thing. My cooper 35" st on 16" stock aluminum rim very, very lightly kiss the frame under extreme articulation with a four inch lift and corresponding lowered bump stops. I trimmed a 1"x1" section out of the rear mud flap - that was it. Guys fit the same tire and rim combo with the emu 2.5 inch lift with about the same amount of cutting.

Sell the 15's. Put your stock rims back on, paint the lip orange as per your other post, and get new tires and you are good to go. Some tire shops will take them in trade and credit you on the next tires you buy so it may not be a big loss.

I went 15s because the where less money.
They where $500 out of pocket...
They still have the nipples on them.
I will reduce the spacing as much as possible & repost the results.
Thank you everyone for your feedback.

 

[Heckraiser]

I personally would avoid body lift at all costs, even if it meant losing some $$$ on a tire/wheel swap.

 

[kdxman]

Drop the spacers

 

[GW Nugget]

Reducing backspace...

As of 1.25.15 I finally had time to do some R&D on the spacing problem. I removed the front spacers completely as for the rear I had two 1/4" spacers in hand & tried to put those on but with the studs being 1" long there was not enough threads left to tighten the lug nuts.
Bummer.
At this point I could see the aluminum wheel was hitting the caliper just by a wee bit, something that could be very easily ground off no problem.
For the backspacing to be where it needs to be is 1/2". To do this spacing I will need longer studs. I did set the back of the wheel up against the 1" studs & everything cleared just fine. The problem with this is it will only be a 1/2" ruduction in backspacing. I hope this will fix the rubbing fender issues. It will be $50 for two 1" wheel spacers.
My only other hope is that a steal wheel could have a larger bell opening & therefore be able to slide past the calipers with a 1/2" backspaceing and be thinner in the lug nut area. There is a guy that has done this before here is a link to the thead of the same thing that I am talking about. Here is a pic from that thread. This guy has a 1" spacer & a 3.5" BS just like mine but with a steal wheels. He did write that it could work with 1/2" spacing but he wanted to fill the fender out more.

All though he did mention that with that set up he had no rubbing problems & they tucked in the fenders. Here is a pic of his set up.

Here's mine. It looks like my tire has more meat on the edge then his.

I think it's worth 50 bucks to try...
Stay tuned

 

[VuickB6]

Maybe you should stop dicking around with wheel spacers and just buy the right size wheels? Buy some cheap steel 17x8 Cragar Soft 8 wheels with stock backspacing for ~$91/wheel from Summit and you won't have to worry about wheel studs or cutting anything. Then sell your tires and get new ones that fit those wheels and move on.


These are 37s. Same wheels as above and no cutting with just a little bit of rubbing on the bumper.

 

[CoffeeGeek]

1" body lift is pretty mild and it relieves some rubbing issues. Although from the looks of your photos you may not get enough clearance due to the agressive stance.

BL Doesn't really jack with too much and is a half day job. Little bit of adjustment to shift linkage, radiator drop brackets and good to go. Saying that it did stop be from a Slee front as I did not want am even larger gap. Got a used ARB front bar to install. If I don't like the gap I may remove the body lift.

 

[GW Nugget]

~~~~~~~~~~~~~
As of 1.25.15 I finally had time to do some R&D on the spacing problem. I had two 1/4" spacers in hand & tried to put those on but with the studs being 1" long there was not enough threads left to tighten the lug nuts.
Bummer.
At this point I could see the aluminum wheel is hitting the caliper just by a wee bit, something that could be very easily ground off no problem.
For the backspacing to be where it needs to be is 1/2". To do this spacing I will need longer studs. I did set the back of the wheel up against the 1" studs & everything cleared just fine. The problem with this is that it will only be a 1/2" ru
As of 2.3.15 I found time to get the 1" spacers on.

Took a quick trip to the creek bed & found my favorite test spot, wow 1/2" less spacing made a big difference. It did still rubbed just a wee bit. Very close & very doable. Just to add a note due to the panhard bard pulling the axle to the right all of the fitment issues are on the side of the right rear.
I went back & did a little bit of hammering on the right side inside rear fender lip.

& trimed the bottom corner of the flare.

Finally tucked 35s...
They still do rub a a bit but not fender ripping rub. It now rubs the top of the fender well. There is approx. 1" to the bump stop.

To conclude for historical record I do not recommend fitting 15" on these 80s, but it can be done.
A 3.5" BS steel wheel & a bit of grinding.
Also a proper alignment with an adjustable panhard bar.
These two items are on my short list.

 

[Cruisin']

I'm in agreement with GoFast. Get rid of the 1" spacers and you'll have some minor frame and inner fender rubbing at the inside of the tire. Nothing will get damaged. Getting tires into the flares is a quick way to a de-flared rig.

Looking at your pics, where the tire is really close (touching?) the door-mounted part of the flare, it might look like a minor rub, but it could grab the flare and try to pull it off (I experienced this not long ago, thought I had no contact there but went through a cross-ditch with some speed and just about lost the flare. That's on a 4" lift).

 

[GW Nugget]

Just a update for historical purpose...
I did finally get mad enough & ground down on my calipers to fit the 15" rims with NO SPACER.
But not before ripping lugs off my new tires...
So I shoe horned it in there & gotRdone.
They finally fit.... great. But still the spungy mushy road manners was a negitive.

I had them for sale on Craigslist this whole time... low and behold they sold yesterday.

I will be putting some 315s on the stock wheels. I really did like the Cooper ST Maxx tire so I will be getting those again.

I did go to try it once more late at night and this time the right rear really went all the way stuffed & I herd a loud rubbing flip flip flip.... I didn't curl the lip enough & this is the result.

Yes I'm part of the chucked tire club now. Here's a pic of what caused it.

Just for historical record fitting 15" rims is not recommended due spacing issues, but is possible. If you have them run them. A little more hammering & it will work.

 

[GW Nugget]

I finally sold the 35s...
My tight little ride got some 315s today.
The E rating has a firmer sporty feel to them compared to the spungy C rated 35s.

 

[GW Nugget]

Kinda think the same thing. My cooper 35" st on 16" stock aluminum rim very, very lightly kiss the frame under extreme articulation with a four inch lift and corresponding lowered bump stops. I trimmed a 1"x1" section out of the rear mud flap - that was it. Guys fit the same tire and rim combo with the emu 2.5 inch lift with about the same amount of cuttinG.
Sell the 15's. Put your stock rims back on, paint the lip orange as per your other post, and get new tires and you are good to go. Some tire shops will take them in trade and credit you on the next tires you buy so it may not be a big loss.

I did.
You where right.
Thanks.

 

[gofast]

Looks awesome!

Let me know what your think of the Maxx's. I have the ST originals - second set and I'm curious on how you think the maxx's perform. They may be my next go to's

 

[GW Nugget]

The ST Maxx tire wears like iron, even though they start out at 18/32 which is a bit short for a new tire. I have had a set of 265s on my oil field work truck f150 for 3 years, that's double the life of the other sets of tires I've had. Even at 25 psi for 3 years of pot holed gravel roads. I like for the hyprid tread, not a mud tire & not a all terrain either. They also don't pick up rocks like a all terrain does, it just a good all around tire.

They made me get a set of the new Goodyear MTRs & for what I do I like the Maxxs better... I haven't had them very long but can tell I will need a new tires next winter, they are to soft.

 

[GW Nugget]

Silly me, I came across this old thread that I made while a new 80 series owner...
Thanks all for the good advice here on mud.

 

[inkpot]

I went 15s because the where less money.
They where $500 out of pocket...
They still have the nipples on them.
I will reduce the spacing as much as possible & repost the results.
Thank you everyone for your feedback.

Around here a set of decent OEM wheels are really cheap. I sold mine for 50 each with a good 315 spare mounted. A long time ago a got a spare set of 4 for $50 and later flipped them for $100.

 

[ChaseTruck]

Just a update for historical purpose...

Just for historical record fitting 15" rims is not recommended due spacing issues, but is possible. If you have them run them. A little more hammering & it will work.

It's funny how it took you Landcruiser guys what - 10+ years? - to come up with this, and it's supposed to be for the 'historical record'?
Good going.

'A little more hammering' - I could have pointed you to some Chevy boards a long time ago for that kind of knowledge...